PLEASE HELP! WR Manual page 5-38 #22

Can anyone clarify item #22 on page 5-38 of the 02 WR250 manual for me please? It says to loosen the rebound damping adjuster finger tight. Record the set position of the adjuster (the amount of turning out the fully turned in position). I DON'T GET IT! I want to put my forks back together tomorrow after UPS delivers my new seals, but am confused by #22. Thanks.

Wow i didn't know that I was that confusing :)

To YZ2003Racer,

You know everyone likes a little A_S, but nobody likes a smart A_S. It must be nice to be such a know it all like you. I'm just asking for some simple advice from someone more experienced than me in putting my forks back together. You are obviously over qualified. Thanks, but no thanks for your uppity attitude. Anyone out there able to give me a hand?

I agree its confusing. I have not worked on the forks so I cannot speak from experience. It sounds like if you fully loosen that it will "stop" instead of comming off. Is that correct? If so, it sounds like you need to count the number of turns from all the way in to all the way out. That's how I read it anyway.

Anybody else have any experience?


my '01 wrf manual has the exact same note. i think what they mean is to record how far the rebound clicker was set from fully turned out. in other words, this would give you a shot at getting back to your original clicker settings once you got everything back together again, and backing out the adjuster all the way also prepares the fork cap for re-mating with the rod.

there are a couple of people here who do all their own fork work and can likely provide you with the finer details of reassembling the top of the fork.


unfortunately when you are 14 you think you DO know everything. :D later on, after you find yourself in 'differential equations' class at engineering school, it immediately becomes very clear you don't. :)

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

I too was encountered some confusion with that process - the manual is somewhat robotic in how they describe things.

After spending a few minutes studying the situation it will sorta become clearer. Keep in mind the prior instruction (#21) about having at least 20mm of thread showing.

What they want during the process of reinstalling the fork cap, is for you to get the cap properly screwed down all the way. That is to say it will finally bottom out on the rod you're threading it onto. Both the locknut & the adjuster screw are backed off as much as nessasary to allow this to happen without incident.

Think of it being along the lines of describing how to do it safely & then some.

Once you have the cap on, you'll find that the lock nut will spin up a bit & you'll wonder why you went to such trouble to make sure it was 20mm down. It's to make sure it's out of the way - but described in a no-slang way.

For the dampening adjuster screw, much the same thing here, but also to ensure that you have the same settings on both sides when done. In reality though, this is something you would (or at least should) check after pulling things apart & making mods?

I learned this through trial & error (mostly trial though) while playing with fork springs.

Just go at an easy pace with time to study things & all will go quite well - then go have fun!

ps. - you've greased your steering head bearings while the forks were off?

Thanks to all three of you who replied. Here I go out to the shop to reassemble. And thanks for the greasing of the steering head tip, I would not have thought of that at this time. Do you guys use the two different kinds of grease and lubricating oil that Yamaha says to use in the manual? At my local auto parts supply house they can't even get the molybdenum disulfide type of oil or grease. Mayby the Yamaha dealer has it?


click here

jim aka the wrooster

Sorry man. I siad that cuz I didn't know what I was talking about so i figured i'de be a smart a**. Next time i feel like being one i'll just take my fingers off teh key board.

The rebound adjuster pushes against the long 8 millemeter aluminum rod,that rod pushes against a needle valve in the rebound dampening valving of the forks. Yamaha wants no pressure on that valve during assembly of the forks to lessen any chance of damage to the needle or its seat. If you did not do this it is a 99 per cent chance that you did NO damage.

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