Yes, I DESTROYED my rear hub. Help!!!

I've had the toughest time keeping my sprocket bolts tight on my 450. I've used Lock-Tite, lock washers, different brands of locking nuts, and a few other methods I won't mention. I still have to tighten them about every hour or so! Thursday night I was training at the track, here in Vegas. I had just grabbed a handful of throttle to launch over a jump when, GGGGRRRRRRRRRR!!!! I knew it would be expensive, whatever it was. Turns out that 3 of the sprocket bolts had gotten loose enough to have the sprocket torque the hub into pieces. I've got another race series starting Feb 22, and need to get squared away. I'm a cheap bastard. I've written my sponsors for price quotes. Until I hear from them, does anybody have a rear hub, or complete rear laced hub and rim for sale? Thanks for your tips.

--"Bumming" in Vegas

Hey fella, I know that feeling!

check mine out from last year.......

CLICK HERE!!

Notice the gouges in the swingarm, bend and broken spokes, and the HUB!! WOW!

3 bolts came out.

I use RED Lock tite ONLY, AND crush or Nylock nuts, with Yamaha bolts (8mm allen head).

Only thing that will keep them in.

Get an 8mm allen head (3/8" drive) for a ratchet, and crank till you can't crank any more to put them on. Standard allen wrenches don't get enough straight drive on the bolts.

I paid about 300 including the shipping for the parts to my wheel (Excel 18" rim, bulldog spokes, talon hub), but that was through my uncle who owned a shop in California......but you should be able to pick one up for good with the sponsors you got! (Since I know close to what you will pay for 'em)

Man, did you break those triple clamps the same time you did the hub?

Thanks guys.

I'll follow up with these. Hey "Dethwish", I've actually twisted a few sprocket bolts in half trying to get them tight enough. Sorry to hear it's happened to you, too. Thanks again for the scoop.

Use safety wire on them. They'll never come off.

Until I hear from them, does anybody have a rear hub, or complete rear laced hub and rim for sale? Thanks for your tips.

I saw a complete rear wheel on the parts for sale forum. :)

Thanks Chris, I'm watching that one. Just might be the ticket. This sight rocks!

Make sure that your chain tension isn't causing this. Just a suggestion. (you probably already know this).

Someone was talking about torquing down the 8mm allen. You shouldn't be trying to turn the allen to tighten it. You need to hold the allen bolt stationary and tighten the nut. The allen bolt should not turn at all when you're tightening the nuts. Also, when using locktite on sprocket bolts you should put it on the taper of the allen bolt to lock it to the sprocket. I don't use locktite but whenever you read something about this (like when a factory team mechanic does one of those how-to's in the magazines) they say to locktite the taper, not the threads.

I second using Yamaha allens. They are way stronger than Honda's and the allen size is larger. You can use the ones from a 250F and they transfer right over. I would use stainless nuts as well to complete the ensemble. I personally haven't had a problem with stock, (I never check them after torqing to spec initially, although I probably will now) but I know the Yamaha ones will work better in your case. By the way, what sprocket are you runnning? I have used stock and Talon, I'm thinking maybe aluminum is stickier and won't come loose as bad as a stainless or steel sprocket which is what I think I remember your using. You might experiment with this as well. Hope this helps.

I make sure I watch mine, I did the same thing on my WR thru some whoops. Ouch and $$$ouch!!

696

Just bought a new rear wheel assembly from Service Honda for $275 plus shipping. This does not include the brake rotor, sprocket or any of the hardware. It is just a laced hub and rim. They have the best prices on Honda parts if you have no luck finding a used wheel.

Good luck!

Metric hardware comes in different grades.

5.8

8.8

10.9

12.9

The grade is marked on bolt head. If there is no number, then it is grade 5.8. Consider upgrading to the next highest one or just go to 10.9. Bolt pre-load is essential but if you go too high the hub material will yield and you will lose your bolt pre-load. This may be what happened in your case. So upgrade the hardware then torque it to the recommended spec for that size and grade using a good, reliable torque wrench. If your manual doesn't have the torque spec, I can easily look it up. Also make sure you are using hardened washers, not mild steel or aluminum-they will just yield and you will lose your pre-load. You can use red Lock-tite but the hardware must be clean. You can also dot the hardware with a paint pen or fingernail polish so that you can see at a glance whether the hardware has moved. Safety wire will definately lock it down but that's a lot of drilling.

Sawdaddy, you should check ebay out as well....

There is some guy selling CRF stuff on EBay. Brand new, looks like he is parting out bikes for the engine. Do a search on CR250 also. You might find something.

mxman...

No, the hub was done in Feb. '02 when I landed long on a 60' table, on the gas hard. The sprocket bolts had already come out (blur lock-tited), and when I hit, it just sheared and make a sick sound. Bike locked up and that was that.

The triple clamps were April 16, 02, when I came up short on a 50' step up because of hitting neutral just before the take off. Instant nose dive and plowed into the face of the step. That's the crash that broke my shoulder and took part of my pinky as well.

As far as turning the nut or the bolt, I cannot get enough torque while turning the NUT. The box end won't fit, and the open end flexes a little and or tries to round the nut.

If you take the open end, put in on the nut, and turn the bolt, until the wrench bottoms into something, you can torque on the bolt and get ALOT of it. Then tap on the wrench, and it should come off the nut. I have not had a bolt come loose yet while doing this.

And yes, red lock tite the threads AND the head of the bolt.

I even go so far as to dribble a little of the red stuff on te exposed part of the threads past the nut on the other side!!

My dad double nut's his........it looks odd, but it tends to work.

Sorry to hear about your hub. But I have to say, thanks a million dude!! I never even thought to check my sprocket bolts. I recently replaced my chain and sprockets and made sure they were tight when I did it. I checked them today and three of them were loose enough that I could have unscrewed them with my fingers. Rest assured I will check these every ride now. Thanks Again! :)

I've never had them loosen up on mine. With no Loc-Tite at all. I just use the allen head to hold it from turning and tighten the nut with a box end wrench. I just don't understand this... and I've owned CR's since 93

If any guy soars 50-100 feet in the air and doesn't check almost every nut on the bike before each ride, he is nuts. I check every nut on my bike and each of my boys bikes before each ride. No I don't check all engine nuts/bolts but I check the engine mounts. I will say I have found disturbing things while checking my 03' 450 and my boys 03' YZ85 and 03' KX125. Loose rear linkages, sprockets, discs etc. Safety is numbero uno. Love lock tite

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