DualSport Technologies - still in business?

[fordtch8]

I reponded to an add on Dual Sport Technologies web site for bata testes to help design and install kits for Yamaha WR450. I got an e-mail back from Lee saying the he was happy I wanted to help and if I would help him by taking voltage readings, voltage type, wire colors, pictures etc that he would give me a free kit once they where done. I spent an afternoon going over my bike giving him all the information he wanted and much more with a lot of detail. I sent him 5 or 6 high quality pics. I never heard back from him. I gave him several months and sent another message asking if he had gottin any further in the design. I have never heard back from him. I contacted trick dual sport and had him build me the kit I wanted with the options that I wanted. I had the kit a week later. Nuff said.

[pielet97]

I reponded to an add on Dual Sport Technologies web site for bata testes to help design and install kits for Yamaha WR450. I got an e-mail back from Lee saying the he was happy I wanted to help and if I would help him by taking voltage readings, voltage type, wire colors, pictures etc that he would give me a free kit once they where done. I spent an afternoon going over my bike giving him all the information he wanted and much more with a lot of detail. I sent him 5 or 6 high quality pics. I never heard back from him. I gave him several months and sent another message asking if he had gottin any further in the design. I have never heard back from him. I contacted trick dual sport and had him build me the kit I wanted with the options that I wanted. I had the kit a week later. Nuff said.

If that is true, and I have no reason to believe its not, he is a POS.

[MrMeaty]

Lee is a thief!!!!!! DO NOT BUY FROM DST!!!!!!

I ordered from him over 2 weeks ago! No response to emails, phone calls, nothing. Unfortunately, I read this thread too late! He no longer accepts private messages on here, and I can see why.

Lee, if you read this, this is FRAUD!!!!! That carries some serious implications! Either check your voice/email and start returning some messages, or my next call is to YOUR local law enforcement!

[woxofoh]

I posted some of my experience with Dual Sport America somewhere but all the threads have run together now into a tapestry of insanity.

I waited about a month to order mine after I decided on Dual Sport A. but I never saw this thread. I waited because the site said free upgrade to smoke signals. When I tried to buy them it added $30 to the cost of the kit. I called twice and em'd twice about why this was. After about 3 weeks (If he only hadn't called at all!) Lee called and said he would change the checkout on the site to reflect the inclusion in the price (full Kit for CRF250X). True to his word that day the site was changed. I then found that I was being charged $58 for shipping. A Priority Mail box twice as big as needed would only cost $13.75. Like a fool searching for El Dorado I plodded on against common sense. It was still a good price and was by far the best "looking"setup. My friends have Baha's and the rear fender flexes the CRF fender at every bump. A few hours of good old Southern Ohio clay stuck to that Hai Lai basket looking thing and it's history. Anyway I got the kit within a week or less. It was stuffed into a Prioity Mail Cardboard envelope (about 10x12) so tightly that he had to wrap packing tape around it to hold it together and it was the shape of a football. I took the kit out and it looked to be complete. I set it aside for about a month and when I went to install the LED license plate light was missing. After 2 more calls and emails (about ten) days I was contacted by a friendly person name Teresa(?) she said the light would be shipped right out. I also questioned the shipping charge and the total lack of protective packaging. She immediately said the shipping charges didn't make sense and she would look into that.

SO...Grumppy Dog.

All this IC busines and the rest of the high tech scare stories have me paranoided out. You want to get in the DS Lighting game? How 'bout I send you my whole freakin' kit and you rewire and send back some complete instructions for installation (I have the key, 2 brake switches (why?), horn ..the whole Complete Kit? This would be worth about $100 to would include return shipping from your end. I will send payment up front as I think the effort you've spent on this shows your an altruistic kind of guy.

Not up on all this blog stuff so call me at 740-9294833

0r email: woxof@msmisp.com

Thanks

Sean Ahern

[GrumpyDog]

I posted some of my experience with Dual Sport America somewhere but all the threads have run together now into a tapestry of insanity.

I waited about a month to order mine after I decided on Dual Sport A. but I never saw this thread. I waited because the site said free upgrade to smoke signals. When I tried to buy them it added $30 to the cost of the kit. I called twice and em'd twice about why this was. After about 3 weeks (If he only hadn't called at all!) Lee called and said he would change the checkout on the site to reflect the inclusion in the price (full Kit for CRF250X). True to his word that day the site was changed. I then found that I was being charged $58 for shipping. A Priority Mail box twice as big as needed would only cost $13.75. Like a fool searching for El Dorado I plodded on against common sense. It was still a good price and was by far the best "looking"setup. My friends have Baha's and the rear fender flexes the CRF fender at every bump. A few hours of good old Southern Ohio clay stuck to that Hai Lai basket looking thing and it's history. Anyway I got the kit within a week or less. It was stuffed into a Prioity Mail Cardboard envelope (about 10x12) so tightly that he had to wrap packing tape around it to hold it together and it was the shape of a football. I took the kit out and it looked to be complete. I set it aside for about a month and when I went to install the LED license plate light was missing. After 2 more calls and emails (about ten) days I was contacted by a friendly person name Teresa(?) she said the light would be shipped right out. I also questioned the shipping charge and the total lack of protective packaging. She immediately said the shipping charges didn't make sense and she would look into that.

SO...Grumppy Dog.

All this IC busines and the rest of the high tech scare stories have me paranoided out. You want to get in the DS Lighting game? How 'bout I send you my whole freakin' kit and you rewire and send back some complete instructions for installation (I have the key, 2 brake switches (why?), horn ..the whole Complete Kit? This would be worth about $100 to would include return shipping from your end. I will send payment up front as I think the effort you've spent on this shows your an altruistic kind of guy.

Not up on all this blog stuff so call me at 740-9294833

0r email: woxof@msmisp.com

Thanks

Sean Ahern

Hey there Sean. I'm not going to charge you to help you out brother. Before I go and re-wire the whole thing for you, how are you with basic electronics? The main thing is to isolate the headlight circuit and key switch circuit from everything else. Those two are AC and everything else is DC. You are going to have to run a new circuit from your battery up to the front of the bike to power all of your DC stuff. I would recommend putting an in-line fuse to help protect the system.

The reason you have two banjo brake switches are they are for your front and rear brake lever/pedal (which you are going to have to seperately bleed when you install them). They both will light up your brake light. Watch where you run the line from the rear one though becasue it is prety close the the exhaust pipe and will melt the insulation and short everything out.

If you aren't comfortable doing any of this, then we can talk further about you sending me the harness and the rest of the kit, along with some money for the return freight. It may take me a couple of weeks right now becasue I am going to be away on business on and off for a couple of weeks. Or, I can call you and try to walk you through what you need to do. Let me know either way.

[woxofoh]

Grumpy Dog:

Thanks for the prompt reply. I have minimal electrical ability but would like to try to install it with you help (I do have a multimeter,connectors crimper/stripper/wire etc.). Part of the problem - where does the mysterious wire from the battery go to to isolate the Ac from Dc? I plan to print out and re read this thread but I read it once and never seemed to get a "connect red wire to green wire" certainty to what I am supposed to do. I was thinking that I should install all the components but not plug in the wire that supplies the power until I know what to change (but not sure what wire that would be/not be). Also I can see no point in installing the foot operated brake unit for this dual sport app unless it is a wiring issue that requires both of them.

In addition I'm not sure if the harness hasn't evolved from the ones that caused the problems. Would it help if I took a photo/drew a graphic of what I have for you to help me (and others with this)?

My other issue is that on blogs you only get input from the guys that had problems. Like the Ford Taurus transmissions - not one word from the 3 million satisfied customers. I don't mean any offense to anyone but has the wiring diagram for DSA kit been examined to the point that it can be said that it is improperly engineered or is it possibly installation errors?

One other issue (sorry about the length). Is the main problem an eventual failure of the IC (unit?,thing,gizmo?) that is included in the kit? I checked at Wheeling Motor Supply and they sell an IC (really not sure what it is or does) is it a replacement for the one in the DSA kit?

And FINALLY - I received the missing license plate light from DSA within 3 days of calling. So I have to say that the DSA service has been a little slow in response time to questions but above average in sending the kit after paying for it and resolving the missing parts issue. Further comment on the install and needed mods to correct problems in design yet to come.

Thanks

Sean

[markey]

hey sean. I had probs with my DSA kit and I found out that the IC relay was fried (twice)...clearly not a robust design for AC current.

Wobbly (fellow TTer) helped me fix the problem with a few cheap parts from the auto store. I am still drawing power off the headlight, but going to DC power would be nice for keeping the light strong at low RPMs.

[Marco the Pool Boy]

I have had a 2005 CRF450X since new in 2005.

The summer of 2005 I installed a BajaDesigns kit, it has NEVER let me down, or left me stranded. OK, after 3 years the rubber gromment that hold their horn fell apart, no biggie, zip-tees took care of it. I've put over 5,000 miles on this system with NO issue. OK, the engine fried itself (top-end), and many other aspects of the bike, but the BD kit still shines, and still works perfect.

To be stuck out in the woods with a fried system is NOT an option, at least for me. As I ride a lot high in the Sierra's and sometimes by myself....

I have a hard time understanding the logic for buying cheap systems with tried and true systems out there. Especially with the cost difference between a BD system and a cheap system with similar options may be a rear tire in cost.

Sorry to hear that there are low-life manufactures out there.

[JoeBlow Kokomo]

Start a case with pay pal. Tell them u want ur money back.

Or don't waste your time. Check out paypalsucks.com for more info. They are equal opportunity thieves. Steal from you AND the seller!! ?

[markey]

I have had a 2005 CRF450X since new in 2005.

The summer of 2005 I installed a BajaDesigns kit, it has NEVER let me down, or left me stranded. OK, after 3 years the rubber gromment that hold their horn fell apart, no biggie, zip-tees took care of it. I've put over 5,000 miles on this system with NO issue. OK, the engine fried itself (top-end), and many other aspects of the bike, but the BD kit still shines, and still works perfect.

To be stuck out in the woods with a fried system is NOT an option, at least for me. As I ride a lot high in the Sierra's and sometimes by myself....

I have a hard time understanding the logic for buying cheap systems with tried and true systems out there. Especially with the cost difference between a BD system and a cheap system with similar options may be a rear tire in cost.

Sorry to hear that there are low-life manufactures out there.

No argument from me that the DSA kit is low quality. This link is about what to do if you already have the DSA kit. Although I will admit that the minimal design of the DSA kit has its advantages if you don't feel like adding a lot of weight or features to the bike.

[woxofoh]

Markey:

Thanks for the info on the IC. I'm still waiting for input on what wire goes where or what mysterious parts to buy. I still have to review the posts as I said so maybe it will all piece together. Maybe I can provide the info. Remember Einstein said,"You don't really understand something until you can explain it to your mother."

Mark Bevens:

I'm glad you are happy with your BajaDesigns kit. Remember, most of us who bought the DSA Kit had no info on the reliability issues. On the surface the DSA Kit "appears" to be better thought out because it uses the existing headlight and fender (that is the reason for the added cost of the Baja not necessarily the overall design). I personally have never owned a dirt bike that was not street legal and I have ridden Yamahas, Huskys, Bultacos and Hondas in AZ, WY, ID, WA, OH for extended periods of time. For me personally after observing some of the issues my friends (also former flatrack, scrambles and motorcycle shop owners) have had with the extra weight of the Baja fender it did not look like the best choice to me. If you can make any suggestions as how to HELP those of us with the DSA Kit make it perform correctly it will be appreciated.

[GrumpyDog]

Grumpy Dog:

Thanks for the prompt reply. I have minimal electrical ability but would like to try to install it with you help (I do have a multimeter,connectors crimper/stripper/wire etc.). Part of the problem - where does the mysterious wire from the battery go to to isolate the Ac from Dc? I plan to print out and re read this thread but I read it once and never seemed to get a "connect red wire to green wire" certainty to what I am supposed to do. I was thinking that I should install all the components but not plug in the wire that supplies the power until I know what to change (but not sure what wire that would be/not be). Also I can see no point in installing the foot operated brake unit for this dual sport app unless it is a wiring issue that requires both of them.

In addition I'm not sure if the harness hasn't evolved from the ones that caused the problems. Would it help if I took a photo/drew a graphic of what I have for you to help me (and others with this)?

My other issue is that on blogs you only get input from the guys that had problems. Like the Ford Taurus transmissions - not one word from the 3 million satisfied customers. I don't mean any offense to anyone but has the wiring diagram for DSA kit been examined to the point that it can be said that it is improperly engineered or is it possibly installation errors?

One other issue (sorry about the length). Is the main problem an eventual failure of the IC (unit?,thing,gizmo?) that is included in the kit? I checked at Wheeling Motor Supply and they sell an IC (really not sure what it is or does) is it a replacement for the one in the DSA kit?

And FINALLY - I received the missing license plate light from DSA within 3 days of calling. So I have to say that the DSA service has been a little slow in response time to questions but above average in sending the kit after paying for it and resolving the missing parts issue. Further comment on the install and needed mods to correct problems in design yet to come.

Thanks

Sean

Hey there Sean (Woxofoh),

I want to try to answer as many questions as I can for you. As for the "cut this wire, attach this wire" no one has come up with it yet. I ended up taking off all of the electrical tape on the front harness area that DSA sent me. I had to "re-map" and label each wire so that I could seperate the DC circuit from the AC circuit. It took me about 2 hours, but like an idiot I did not take photos or draw it our before I put it all back together and re-wrapped everything. The reason you keep hearing of everyone frying their IC Relay (it is a solid-state blinker that is necessary for LED lights) is that they are not rated for AC. I went through a total of 3 harnesses from DSA, and they all came wired the same way (screwed up). It's not like it was a batch of them either because this was over the span of 6+ months (would have been less than 1 month if Lee at DSA ever returned a phone call or e-mail).

The IC Relay from Wheeling Cycle is the exact one that is used in the wiring harness that comes from DSA. They are a great help and will get you a replacement within a couple of days (I think around $20). Your blinkers will work fine while the bike is turned off, but if you start the bike, then turn on a turn signal (while the bike is running) you will now be shoving AC through this relay. Sometimes the relays can take it for a few months, but most times they blow out immediately.

As for you rear brake switch, the system will work if you only have one hooked up. Just make sure for your inspection that you do not need to have both pedals (lever & foot) operate the brake light. I live in Maryland, and it is a requirement here. You can cut the line to the rear brake switch and tape it up so that they ends stay dry (no shorting the system).

In the end, you can chance it and install the harness as it has come to you. I don't know if any mods have been made, but we can only hope that that they took these complaints to heart. Hook everything up, then start the bike, then try everything out. If you fry some of the parts, you will only be out $20-50 in replacement parts and then you can start making the changes from there. Let me know which route you want to take.

[woxofoh]

G.D:

Thanks for the reply. I made a Word Doc out of the DSA posts so I can read them all at once. I will install the kit and do the volt meter testing as best I can. I have been slow getting started because I am helping a friend refurb an '80 Bultaco 350 Sherpa T in my leanto of a garage. Not enough room to cram the 250 in there and strip it to work on. I can live with replacing the IC and I won't be using the signals much as this bike is only being made street legal for the rare possibility that some law enforcement official in S. Ohio is going to stop me on a dual sport ride.

Is there somewhere I could install a cut out switch that would isolate the turn signals from the AC power? This way I could avoid accidentally activating them while riding but could show that I have them if I am stopped. Am I correct in reading that the headlight is getting AC but that ONLY effects the power to the turn signals not the tailight /brakelight and license plate light? That is, the IC just blows and it is only working with the turn signals?

Thanks Again

Sean

woxofoh

[GrumpyDog]

Is there somewhere I could install a cut out switch that would isolate the turn signals from the AC power? This way I could avoid accidentally activating them while riding but could show that I have them if I am stopped. Am I correct in reading that the headlight is getting AC but that ONLY effects the power to the turn signals not the tailight /brakelight and license plate light? That is, the IC just blows and it is only working with the turn signals?

woxofoh

The way both harnesses that DSA initially sent to me were wired ended up sending both DC and AC to the turn signals, brake/tail lights, license plate light, horn, and license plate light once the bike was started. The ignition, via the new key switch, is only AC. And the headlights are only AC. The problem is the way it is (or was) wired was fine as long as the bike was not turned on. Within the space of the bike running about 5 minutes, I had blown half the LEDs in the tail light assembly, the LED licences plate light, 4 LEDs in the rear right turn signal (they blew the same time the IC Relay blew), and the IC relay. Plus, the horn sound really weird becasue it now had AC running to it. When you get everything hooked up, without starting the bike, you can test that you have the tail/brake lights, turn signals, horn, and license plate lights all hooked up correctly. To test the headlights (hi/low/off) and the key switch you will need to start the bike. Do NOT test your turn signals yet. Once you have the bike started, if your tail/brake light has a slight "flicker" to them then I can pretty much tell you that now have AC running to them and should probably turn the bike back off. If you can do it quick enough, put your DVM test leads to the tail light or the licences plate light and look for an AC signal to confirm this. Worste case is that you see the AC signal and will need to re-wire the harness that DSA sent to you. If you turn on a turn signal while the bike is running and you even think you may have this AC problem, there is good chance you are going to blow the IC relay immediately.

AC only: Headlight (via the perch switches), and ingition.

DC only: Turn Signals (via the perch switches and the IC Relay), IC Relay, Brake Lights, Tail Lights, License Plate Lights, Horn.

Key Switch Assembly: It handles both AC and DC via 2 seperate sets of lines coming into it. It acts as an on/off switch for bath at the same time. AC for the ignition and headlights. DC coming from the battery to power everything else (LED lights and horn).

Let us know how it goes.

[Husky4]

Grumpydog, I have been attempting to put together a kit for my husky. I have been looking at procycle's kit. Does it have the same problem when running standard turn signals and tailight as with led's ? are you currently doing harnesses? I contacted BD also they told me I would have to replace my stator to run one of thier kits.

[GrumpyDog]

Grumpydog, I have been attempting to put together a kit for my husky. I have been looking at procycle's kit. Does it have the same problem when running standard turn signals and tailight as with led's ? are you currently doing harnesses? I contacted BD also they told me I would have to replace my stator to run one of thier kits.

I love Huskies, but they are definitely "unique" when it comes to aftermarket parts. Pretty much we all know that BD are the Gods of Dual Sport kits. The only reason I did not want to go with them is that I wanted a lower profile and lighter system than what they were offereing. I took a look at ProCycle's website and their offerings, and they pretty much look to be 2-step distributer of all the parts needed to create a generic dual sport kit (pretty much what Wheeling Cycle is too). Their wiring harness, along with all of the other parts, can be found on a few other sites. They are all good parts, but it really comes down to the wiring harness and how your current headlight (if you currently ahve one) is

Not knowing which model you have (WR, TC, TE, ?) I really can't answer about the rewiring of your stator. If your bike already has the headlight on it and you want to re-use it as the Dual-Sport headlight, you can check with Husqvarna and ask if the supplied bulb has two filaments in it. My Honda CRF450X came with a double filament headlight. You can use this bulb as the high and low beam. But for me, if I was to decide to increase the headlight wattage and go with a better headlight assembly (probably from BD) then I would have to have my stator rewound. If you have to change the bulb in your bike so that you have a high and low beam then their is a possibility that you may need to rewind your stator. If this is the case, I highly suggest using BD for that. THey 100% will get it right every time.

About ProCyles harness and LEDs, I unfortunately have no idea. I haven't had a chance to test one yet. If you want, you can start a thread in the Husky area of the forums on here and ask any other Husky owners if they have used ProCycle for their dual sport kits and how it went. I have to say though that with everything I have read on here, I have not heard any yet complain about a wiring harness from ProCycle or Wheeling Cycle ( I really do think they are using the same harnesses and parts).

If you choose to use a standard turn signal, just remember that they use a regular 12VDC Relay (blinker) assembly. LED turn signals have to be controlled by an IC Relay (or you can create your own circuit using a standard relay and soldering in some resistors). The LED tail/brake lights, LED license plate lights, turn signals (standard or LED), and horn all have to run off of DC and be sperate from your headlight and ignition which are strictly AC.

I'm currently not making harnesses. But I'll definitely try to help you in any way I can. Let me know.

[Husky4]

Thanks for the reply. My Husky is an 05 TE 250 with headlight and tailight. What part of the state are you from. I'm out here in Cumberland.

[GrumpyDog]

Thanks for the reply. My Husky is an 05 TE 250 with headlight and tailight. What part of the state are you from. I'm out here in Cumberland.

I'll try to find out tomorrow about your current headlight (if it can be used) and your stator situation for your bike. Are you wanting to get a brighter light or just trying to pass inspection? Do you have a hook-up on the inspection? If not, I'll give you the full list of what they check for on a bike in MD.

I'm in Ashton which is just north of Olney and Silver Spring. Ever take your bike up to Green Ridge? Drop me a private message on here sometime if you feel like riding. We've got a pretty good size riding group here in MD (all skill levels).

[Flash Brasbo]

well, sign me up as one of the people who have an outstanding order with these guys.....

anybody want to tell me where I should get a dual sport conversion kit for my Honda XR 600?

[William1]

Baja Designs, Trick Dual Spoprt are the front runners.