dual sporting drz400E.. NEED HELP! WIRING

alright i got a wiring harness....


really confused on how to hook up the stock igintion wires and starter button to it... i also dont understand what the headlight opinional wires are for on the wiring harness... and then on the stock wiring harness there is a black and wire wire and a orange wire used for the headlight, but the new harness already comes with headlight wires so just wondering if i should not use the black/white and orange wires...

i could post the wiring diagram for the bike if someone could explain how to insert a photo on this site

maybe someone with a little more experience or first hand knowledge can help me out some more.

From the little that I can see in the picture (could not load it fully), you have a univwersal dual sport kit not well suited for a DRZ400E. You don't have AC power and you all ready have an ignition switch. Without a schematic there is not a lot I can tell you for sure. Does not appear to integrate with your existing wire harness. Most likely the kit ignition "kill" switch grounds the kill wires. You want a switch that opens the power to the CDI. This kit would probably work on a XR400 or something like that.

What brand? Who sells it? What is it suppose to fit? What is the manufacturer's description?

JP - Sorry I can not help more. If I remenber right, you have an E bike with an unknown dual sport kit that was damaged by a hot wire attempt. Now you are trying to put in a wire harness from another dual sport kit. With the bike in front of me I can trace wire functions. 3000 miles way, I can't. If you come up with schematic for the dual sport kit and Procycle wire harness, I can integrate that with the OEM harness, but you said the original harness was damaged so I'm not sure even that would do you any good.

At this point I advise you take yor bike to someone locally that can sort it out for you.

ill post some pics later on in a couple of days when i start feeling better (4 wisdom teeth just got pulled today)...

ive been doing some thinking and looking at the wires and from what i came up with is that i have to use the stock wires for the ignition to power the new dual sport wiring harness.... the way the new wiring harness is set up is that it has its own wires that connect to the battery to power it... and all the ignition switch does is complete that circuit.

and yes you are correct... my bike was hot wires and a lot of wires ended up getting toasted, and a lot of thinks were missing when i got my bike back (like the stock ignition switch.

noble, thanks for the help... if you would like to take a look at all of the wiring diagrams i have then if you pm me with your email address i can send them

maybe someone with a little more experience or first hand knowledge can help me out some more.

Call the guys at ProCycle --> 800-496-5516

They will be happy to explain anything you are confused about.

I have the exact same procycle harness on my bike, so can tell you that it will most definitely work.

I wanted something I could remove fairly easily if needed, and that kit fits the bill perfectly. If you simply attach it at the battery the switch will only turn on the procycle harness and all attached accesssories - blinkers, horn, tail light, etc etc. If you have a single filament bulb ( which you most likely do ) in your headlight the high beam switch will do nothing. You would also need hydraulic brake light switches, or mechanical ( though I wouldnt use one ), and a tail light with a brake light.

Start at the battery and work your way forward. Do yourself a favor and do the free power mod while you are at it.

I have this kit, with the flush mount signals. It got lots of attention at the dealer where I had it inspected since not too many know about them.


You should know that many states require your headlight be on when the bike is, so you would have to be mindful of that when riding on the street. When offroad I usually turn the kit off - or leave it on so those eating my dust know when to slow down.

If you dont already have these you will need:

1. hydraulic brake light switch, at least one, preferably two ( must be able to bleed brakes to install )

2. Dual filament headlight

3. Blinkers you wont destroy quickly ( where I ride a bulky blinker would last about 10 seconds )

4. Brake and tail light

i have everything as explained... and what i did was just buy the procycle harness and i also bought the mamba headlight with the edge tail light...

delecoy.... how did you connect the procycle harness with your stock wires so that when you turn the key to the on position it allows you to push the starter button and start the bike??? thats where all my trouble is coming from, it integrating the procycle harness with the stock E harness

prolly check this out


I followed this to do my e-model, only problem I have is the blinker flasher is not making my blinkers blink. I think the one I got went bad because it did flash when I first hooked it up and now not so much, but the blinkers still get light.

oh, I also sort of followed the clymer manual diagrams for the e, s, and sm to see what the similarities were.

I think the best way to describe it would be that the procycle harness is running parallel to the stock harness. I turn my stock ignition switch to turn on the bike, then turn the procycle switch to power the procycle harness from the battery. I wanted them separate. My procycle harness is only connected at the battery. I didnt even touch my stock harness, except to do the free power mod.

It is very possible I will wander beyond my scope of knowledge on the DRZ and electrical systems ( someone else here please chime in if this is wrong )with this little bit of conjecture; but I would surmise that if all the procycle switch does is complete the circuit to provide power to the harness then you should be able to splice it into the stock switch, after properly identifying which wire is which- if that is really what you want.

I didnt use the kill switch connections on the procycle harness - saw no point as mine already works perfectly fine.

Noble mentioned that you may have other issues with your wiring harness - in which case I dont know if I can help you. If your E harness is intact you can literally just attach the procycle harness to the battery then match up all the wires to their appropriate locations and be done with it.

Maybe I should clarify that further. The stock harness is no longer powering any lights. Those connections are now taped off/secured if needed for later. The procycle harness is the only thing powering any lights on my bike.

alright... i want to set mine up so that i turn the key switch on my procycle harness and it also turns on the power to the stock E harnes... If i understand how you did it then that means you have two key switches on your bike (one for the procycle, one for the E stock wires).....

Ive been doing some trouble shooting and some looking at the bike and the wires and the way i see iam going to have to do it is this way.... One the stock wires there is a red (hot) and an orange wire that connects to the stock key switch... The orange becomes live when the key is ON. On the procycle there is a red (hot) and black (black becomes live when key is ON)... So what iam thinking and a couple of my buddies is that all i need to do is to connect the orange stock wire in with the black procycle wire so that when the key is ON it powers the orange wire so that the cdi and starter button gets juice

Justin - You should have that info in the last email I sent you.

Most of the black Procycle wires are ground. It is the yellow wires that are hot with the key on. So far I can not explain why there is a black wire at the switch. It must change to yellow in the harness some place. I sent you a bench test procedure.

Perhaps some one else here can verify that the Procycle key switch connects the red hot wire to the black switch wire thereby making all the yellow wires hot.

It must change to yellow in the harness some place.

Yes, the black wire out of the switch feeds power to the yellow main power wire in the harness.

Justin - OK there you have it then. Direct from Procycle. Just follow the connection procedure I emailed you this morning. We guessed it right.

To all - I with draw my comment made early on that the Procycle harness may not be well suited to dual sporting the DRZ400E. It looks like a simple easy way to go. For the E harness and the Procycle harness to work together, just jumper a wire from E orange to Procycle yellow and eliminate the E key switch. No need to do anything with the optional head light power connection. And I would not connect the kill wires although this might be needed to be legal in some states.

Procycle - Can you tell me why there is a black wire off the key switch? Since the rest of the black wires are ground, that is confusing. Why not just yellow to the switch? As a recommendation for product improvement, it would be helpfull to include a schematic wire diagram of your harness that shows wire runs, colors and switch functions. Also is the kill interlock in the K&S combination switch still functional? That is - is it necessary to have the lights on to unlock the kill wire.

Can you tell me why there is a black wire off the key switch? Since the rest of the black wires are ground, that is confusing. Why not just yellow to the switch? As a recommendation for product improvement, it would be helpfull to include a schematic wire diagram of your harness that shows wire runs, colors and switch functions. Also is the kill interlock in the K&S combination switch still functional? That is - is it necessary to have the lights on to unlock the kill wire.

The key switch comes from our supplier with a black 'power out' wire. It isn't something we have any choice about.

The whole harness is just a handful of separate circuits. If you look at it as a schematic it doesn't make much sense to most people and generates many more questions than it answers. We find a pictorial diagram with the wire connections labeled works pretty well. Between the diagram and the installation notes all the necessary information is there. Our whole philosophy is to keep it as simple as possible. Most of the installation questions are due to someone assuming it's more complicated that it actually is.

The K&S mini switch doesn't have a kill switch interlock like the larger K&S switch does. Lights on or off makes no difference, the bike will still run.


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