Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

gearing

Recommended Posts

i have the 07 kx450 right now i got stock gearing the 13/50 i ride desert i think going to drop the back to a 46 does anyone have the 13/46 on there bike if so how is it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the 06(4spd) ran a 14 47 for a while great in the wide open but since I do alot of enduro I now run a 13 47. 'I'd try changing the front to a 14 first as it is a cheaper option, run a 14 47 if you have the 47 laying about.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow you are running some tall gearing! 14-47!!! wow. That would be good for riding on the road but damn not woods.

I think chillwabbitt had a great suggestion though, instead of going with the much smaller rear, just step it up one tooth in the front.

Chances are you can then keep the same chain, because you would most likely need a smaller chain for the 46t rear, and thats just really small I honestly didnt know they made a 46t rear for these bikes.

You got an 07 so you have all five gears, I couldnt imagine needing more than 14-50 gearing. It would actuallky be quite similar as the 13-46 gearing just with less complications.

With all that said I run 13-52 gearing on an 07!! (but Im in the tight woods not the desert)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

another reason to do the 14t front is because its going to be alot cheaper. You can probably do it for $15 and see if you like it vs $50 or more for Rear sprocket and $75 or more for new chain.

$15 vs. $125 or more.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i have the 07 kx450 right now i got stock gearing the 13/50 i ride desert i think going to drop the back to a 46 does anyone have the 13/46 on there bike if so how is it

I run 14-45 on 07 250f for the desert....its like having a 6th gear

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i was thinking about the 14 tooth front but was worried about losing my case saver would it fit without taking that off?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

14/50 here. Works great in the desert, and the Rekluse solves all the problems in the tight technical Washington woods...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm no desert rider, but I'd assume that with whatever sprockets you choose, you'll want to end up with your axle near the rear of your swingarm slots. For desert that is. Getting off topic, but for tight tracks I'm real happy with the axle forward. Reeeeal happy. :busted:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14/50 here. Works great in the desert, and the Rekluse solves all the problems in the tight technical Washington woods...

I have seen you post this before, and I have no doubt that it works for you, but generally speaking this is "against the grain".

I personally cant stand the bike with taller gearing because 1st is so tall as it is.

Shorter gearing on mx bikes is good for the woods because it brings ur first gear down, making the tight stuff less "clutchy" lets you go at a slower speed if needed (races here we have to literally weave the bars through trees) and if gives you better snap for conquering objects like a downed tree, logs, rocks, quick hill, small ditch, etc etc.

The argument for the longer gear is to reduce some of the effects of the engine braking, but i think it would be better served to add a flywheel weight, or heavier optional flywheel, and that way you can have the best of both worlds.

Just a thought, because I would hate to see some person who is completely inexperiences (face it you gotta be a faster rider to throw a 14t on and make it work) Go out and buy and take the time to put the 14t on the front for the tight stuff and just stall out everywhere... or burn their clutch up.

With that said I have heard of other people doing the same as you and loving it, but thats not normal :thinking:

EDIT: Just re-read your post and it says REKLUSE solves the problem, and that I can completely agree. I mean you loose all the stalling problems, and all the extra weight is just like adding the flywheel weight.

I have never rode a bike equipped like yours but I could imagine its completely doable and probably very nice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ran 13-48 for a while on an 08, and that was long enough to clock 96mph on the gps!

I can't imagine why you'd want 14-46 bar supermoto maybe.

PS I also ran 13-52 or 51 and it goes through a rear sprocket chain guide in about 10 hours due to larger diameter! Hence going back to a 49 or 50.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ran 13-48 for a while on an 08, and that was long enough to clock 96mph on the gps!

I can't imagine why you'd want 14-46 bar supermoto maybe.

PS I also ran 13-52 or 51 and it goes through a rear sprocket chain guide in about 10 hours due to larger diameter! Hence going back to a 49 or 50.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, I cant believe you got 96 mph out of it with a 48 rear. I couldnt even imagine needing even that much top speed, nevermind the 14-46 the bike probably cant even top it out in that configuration.

I was always gonna grab my gps and do a run with 13-52 configuration but I always forget to. (worst part is thats really the only reason I bought the GPS)

My bike ate through the stock rear chain guide once but it was much longer than ten hours, I probably have ten hours on the replacement guide and still looking good.

(although with a 49 you probably wont eat the guide at all)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have seen you post this before, and I have no doubt that it works for you, but generally speaking this is "against the grain".

I personally cant stand the bike with taller gearing because 1st is so tall as it is.

Shorter gearing on mx bikes is good for the woods because it brings ur first gear down, making the tight stuff less "clutchy" lets you go at a slower speed if needed (races here we have to literally weave the bars through trees) and if gives you better snap for conquering objects like a downed tree, logs, rocks, quick hill, small ditch, etc etc.

The argument for the longer gear is to reduce some of the effects of the engine braking, but i think it would be better served to add a flywheel weight, or heavier optional flywheel, and that way you can have the best of both worlds.

Just a thought, because I would hate to see some person who is completely inexperiences (face it you gotta be a faster rider to throw a 14t on and make it work) Go out and buy and take the time to put the 14t on the front for the tight stuff and just stall out everywhere... or burn their clutch up.

With that said I have heard of other people doing the same as you and loving it, but thats not normal :thinking:

EDIT: Just re-read your post and it says REKLUSE solves the problem, and that I can completely agree. I mean you loose all the stalling problems, and all the extra weight is just like adding the flywheel weight.

I have never rode a bike equipped like yours but I could imagine its completely doable and probably very nice.

Glad you took another look and saw the Rekluse comment. The 14/50 is really the right ticket in the dez, where the rekluse is really not needed. This gearing allows you to comfortably ride down sand washes in the 50 mph range, and still have lots of legs left over to make the necessary pass.

In the woods, it takes more work to ride the 14/50 without the rekluse. However, most folks fail to realize how adding those high (numerically) gears will change the suspension. Compression braking is also much worse, and suspension will not "feel" as plush. I've actually raced 14/50 in the woods, and it works just dandy once you get used to it.

Interesting that most folks just go the opposite direction without considering the advantages of the 14/50 gearing.

This is the first time I have ever installed a Rekluse, and I can say that I will probably never again ride a bike without a Rekluse. I'm an old Expert rider, and still pretty fast, but geez, that Rekluse is just amazing. I ride using the clutch just like normal, so I'm rarely aware it is installed...until I screw up and the bike just keeps on running.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
This is the first time I have ever installed a Rekluse, and I can say that I will probably never again ride a bike without a Rekluse. I'm an old Expert rider, and still pretty fast, but geez, that Rekluse is just amazing. I ride using the clutch just like normal, so I'm rarely aware it is installed...until I screw up and the bike just keeps on running.
Exaaactly. :thinking: I use 13/48. I like the gear spacing with this engine, and low speed stuff is like a walk in the park. Literally.

I have many times carried/tripled my kids on my KX450F (one in front and one behind) across carb deep creeks in soft sand. That might seem irresponsible, but the bike is THAT passive and controllable at low revs. Rear wheel speed and torque control is so precise. Pre rekluse in that creek I would often sink or stall and the rear wheel sets in the sand up to the axle and getting the bike out is a massive job. As is pulling the rear end off and re-lubing all the joints.

Just re-read your post and it says REKLUSE solves the problem, and that I can completely agree. I mean you loose all the stalling problems, and all the extra weight is just like adding the flywheel weight. I have never rode a bike equipped like yours but I could imagine its completely doable and probably very nice.
The rekluse pro clutch is not much heavier at all. I did not weigh the diff, but prob 100g (0.2 lbs) tops. And besides 1) the weight gain is in the center. Lighter in the outer so not much inertial mass gain and perhaps less. 2) the clutch spins at 1/3rd of the crank RPM. You just have to blip the throttle in neutral and you can feel it spins up just as fast as usual. I'd notice it for sure if it spun up slower since I really don't like a heavy flywheel effect. Plus once the revs are up, the centrifugal clutch grips much harder than a spring held clutch. So if you manually clutch in then raise revs, it bites as hard as you want it to upon lever ease.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On my 08 I run the Z Start Pro with a 48T on the back. It's snowy in New England and last week I went out to a very partially melted mx spot With Dunlop 756s) and the bike was fantastic. I could litteraly keep it in 3rd to keep my ass under control and actually go in the snow. This is a natural spot with sand whoops the size of volkswagon beatles.

Talk about forcing yourself to concentrate on body position to not lose the front end. On the actual dirt (mud)it was scary how fast I was charging (for me).

I hemmed and hawed but this clutch and gearing is................glorious:ride:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Exaaactly. :thumbsup: I use 13/48. I like the gear spacing with this engine, and low speed stuff is like a walk in the park. Literally.

I have many times carried/tripled my kids on my KX450F (one in front and one behind) across carb deep creeks in soft sand. That might seem irresponsible, but the bike is THAT passive and controllable at low revs. Rear wheel speed and torque control is so precise. Pre rekluse in that creek I would often sink or stall and the rear wheel sets in the sand up to the axle and getting the bike out is a massive job. As is pulling the rear end off and re-lubing all the joints.

The rekluse pro clutch is not much heavier at all. I did not weigh the diff, but prob 100g (0.2 lbs) tops. And besides 1) the weight gain is in the center. Lighter in the outer so not much inertial mass gain and perhaps less. 2) the clutch spins at 1/3rd of the crank RPM. You just have to blip the throttle in neutral and you can feel it spins up just as fast as usual. I'd notice it for sure if it spun up slower since I really don't like a heavy flywheel effect. Plus once the revs are up, the centrifugal clutch grips much harder than a spring held clutch. So if you manually clutch in then raise revs, it bites as hard as you want it to upon lever ease.

hmmm thats interesting, I was always under the impression that the rekluse added alot of weight. (on reason i never wanted to purchase it, besides cost) I dont need the engine braking either, and I would probably love it, maybe someday i will buy it when i get old!! (haha jp)

It just kinda goes against my riding style, but i bet I would have alot more endurance if I incorporated one into my setup.

but for now, the 13-52 with stock flywheel will do!! its a total blast to ride!!! (just sucks cuz it goes through tires in a few rides!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Glad you took another look and saw the Rekluse comment. The 14/50 is really the right ticket in the dez, where the rekluse is really not needed. This gearing allows you to comfortably ride down sand washes in the 50 mph range, and still have lots of legs left over to make the necessary pass.

In the woods, it takes more work to ride the 14/50 without the rekluse. However, most folks fail to realize how adding those high (numerically) gears will change the suspension. Compression braking is also much worse, and suspension will not "feel" as plush. I've actually raced 14/50 in the woods, and it works just dandy once you get used to it.

Interesting that most folks just go the opposite direction without considering the advantages of the 14/50 gearing.

This is the first time I have ever installed a Rekluse, and I can say that I will probably never again ride a bike without a Rekluse. I'm an old Expert rider, and still pretty fast, but geez, that Rekluse is just amazing. I ride using the clutch just like normal, so I'm rarely aware it is installed...until I screw up and the bike just keeps on running.

I do completely realize what you say about increasing the compression braking with the shorter gearing, and it does wear you out more. I am under the impression that a flywheel weight would counter effect this by keeping the momentum of the engine/flywheel spinning more when you close the throttle. for now I can still handle the bike with the short gearing (in fact I wouldn't have it any other way) but I am sure someday I will agree with you, but for now I'm gonna stick with the quick snap, pure power, and wheel spinning to conquer obstacles.

I honestly had a hard time with the bike on the stock 13-50 gearing, (with low end lugging and stalling) but that was also because this was my first 450, and I ride it MUCH more aggressively now. I have a 51t renthal here, and I think when the 52t wears out I'll probably switch to it, and still be able to ride just as fast in the single track.

and btw I am very jealous of desert riding, I would have to take a trip cross country to partake in the festivities... maybe someday.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hmmm thats interesting, I was always under the impression that the rekluse added alot of weight. (on reason i never wanted to purchase it, besides cost) I dont need the engine braking either, and I would probably love it, maybe someday i will buy it when i get old!! (haha jp)
The weight gain with the rekluse pro clutch might even be less than 100g. And like I said the inertial mass gain is nothing. It spins up real fast. If you like to rev it and fan it, then you might also like the rekluse pro since the clutch grab is much harder than the stocker once the revs are up so the rear tire brakes traction instantly. Nothing could feel more direct. Quite a lot of transmission load when you do this and parts are expensive in Aus, so I don't drop the clutch too often. I find the engine has enough grunt anyway.

I tried 13:51 for a while and did not like it. I just couldn't come to grips with the gears feeling so close together with an engine which has such a broad rpm range of grunt. Besides I hated guessing whether I was in 2nd or 3rd. With 13:48 it's all obvious.

Next time you ride, try a few standing full lock steering figure eight and 720 turns. With the auto clutch these low speed things are easy in 2nd gear and smoother again in 1st. I think I've stalled my KX450F twice since the rekluse clutch went in, and both times were because I went too lean on the fuel screw while snapping the throttle wide open playing with low speed wheel stands.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

has anyone ran something like a 12/50? going down 1 up front instead of going up in the back?

we do this on our streetbikes its good for around 4 teeth out back. would going to a 12 make it to tight and eat up the swing arm?

i have 13/51 and its still not enough. i need more bottom end to use 3rd and 4th more i dont like having to shift to 2nd. on the hondas we always ran in 3rd 4th every where i wanna get this bike the same

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×