Help in Dallas, TX

Looking for help performing the desmog, re-jet, exhaust mod, and the Dirt Tricks chain tensioner on my 08 530 EXCR.

I had the cam replaced by the dealer 3 weeks ago after being stranded 3 times since I bought the bike in February. Before I ride the bike anymore I am making all of the suggested mods. I have the JD Jet kit sitting at home.

I have pulled a lot of good instructional info from the site and feel pretty confident in doing this all myself but I figured I would reach out to anyone that may be interested in helping make sure I do it right.

I am in north Dallas, Texas (Richardson).

I would be happy to pay for your services in green backs, beer, hot wings, whatever. I am just ready to RIDE!!! :busted:

“Canisterectomy” or the alternative "Stealth Disablement"

Disclaimer, removing the emission equipment (canister and plumbing) is to be done for closed course “Off road” use only. Federal and state laws require this equipment for use on the roads and highways. Remove at your own discretion. I would keep all of this in the event you needed to replace it for inspection or compliance to state and federal laws.

For 07-08 450 & 525/530 EXC only (maybe some future street legal models?)

The stock setup KTM had to create to get the bikes approved for street is a nightmare! Problem, this system is like a car where the fuel tank vent go thru a bunch of connections including a distribution box, then vents to both a charcoal filter (behind the battery) as well as the intake port (right side forward of the carb). The intake port trys to suck up any fumes and what it does not suck up is filtered before it gets to the atmosphere. Cars have the same deal and it works fine! What’s different? Well on your car the gas is a couple feet below the gas cap. The tanks vent is just below the cap. So on our bikes the vent outlet is subject to gas slopping into the vent every time we fill the tank, hit a bump, lean, endo, wheelie stoppie, anything that adrenaline junkies do gets gas in the vent hose, then it gets into the distribution box, get an inch of gas there and the tank vent is blocked, gas flow to the carb slows, float level goes down, engine goes lean you think your pipe is blue? Try being a piston ring or exhaust valve! Bike may just quit and last time I checked most towing services don’t go where we go. So we have options, one that 90% of you will do is a complete “Canisterectomy” the others that are concerned with being scrutinized by the long arm of the law we will call "Stealth Disablement". In this plan all the pieces stay in place and maintain their stock appearance.

"Stealth Disablement".

1: Seat & tank off.

2: On the right side of the steering head there is a elbow with a hose unplug the hose.

3: From the gas cap there is a hose that goes down to left side of the steering head to some of the “stuff” in the carburetor/oil filter area. Cut the hose in half mid way under the tank so it can curve forward on the right side and plug into the Elbow from item #1. Then leave the lower 1/2 of that hose in place, ending under the tank, this is now your carburetors float bowls air vent for water crossings!

4; On the right side of the cylinder head intake port is a hole, brass nipple fitting and hose. Two options that come to mind;

A) Remove that hose, find a suitable plug that can go up inside the hose, a sawed off piece of a 5mm screw will do fine, we want it to seal, prevent leakage yet fit into the rubber an inch or more so the rubber can go back onto the brass nipple.

:busted: Remove the nipple and plug the hole in the nipple with solder or epoxy, then re-install.

5: At the back of the transmission case there is a black distribution box, on the bottom is a brass plug, remove the plug (except Motard guys).

System is now neutered, looks normal, carb is vented under the tank so it should be normal.

“Canisterectomy”

1: Seat & tank off.

2: On the right side of the steering head there is a elbow with a hose unplug the hose.

3: From the gas cap there is a hose that goes down to left side of the steering head to some of the “stuff” in the carburetor/oil filter area. Cut the hose in half mid way under the tank so it can curve forward on the right side and plug into the Elbow from item #1.

4; On the right side of the cylinder head intake port is a hole, brass nipple fitting and hose. Toss all that stuff, get a short 5mm screw in either Allen head or Phillips head, put a good drop of Loctite on it and plug the hole (note, if you try to use a hex screw the spot faced part of the head does not leave room for the 8mm hex.

5: On the left side of the engine attached by an oil filter screw is a valve block, remove the 5mm screw that holds the valve block, toss everything and find a suitable screw as the one your removing is too long, use care that the replacement screw does not bottom out in the hole.

6: At the back of the transmission case there is a black distribution box, toss it. This will leave 5 hoses from the carb hanging like the off road bikes do. Refer to my Carb Setup 101 for an option there.

7: There is a clear plastic hose wrapping around the magneto cover and strapped to the frame ending near riders shifting toe, toss it

System is now neutered, looks and runs as normal as the hiway muffler will let it.

Next step in performance is a baffelectomy in the muffler.

Open it up, it will be obvious what needs to come out

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