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Please help with Advice on my engine seizure...

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I think I have simple goals with respect to this, and hoping someone with experience can wisely advise me.

My Goal:

If I can't fix it, I want to at least know as much about it as not to get screwed by the local bike shop.

So excuse the length of this post - hopefully I can put enough detail so that someone will know pretty much what is going on.

'04 CRF250X - very modded by the guy previous to me.....

Since I've had it - maintained it religously - all fluids probably changed too often. Never ridden hard, since I've had it.

(Yeah, I know. The last guy probably redlined it dry and only ran pancake syrup in it....)

I was riding the bike and it just stalled out - sort of like running out of gas or a fouled plug. Tried to start it - couldn't - seemed like one of the two, or maybe the dreaded valve issue.

Pushed back to the truck, like 20 min later started up fine - 1 kick, no issue. Shut it off with kill switch.

Started about 5 min later - and it stalled after a few seconds. Started again, stalled again. Then tried to start again - but kick start would not budge. Didn't force it. (All starts are with kick.) Every time it stalled - nothing noteworthy in sounds or behavior.

All fluids were fine - proper levels, fresh, etc.

Pulled valve cover off - put bike in gear and gently bumped it fwd/bkwds - watched the cam chain move slowly. After a few bumps, it moved much easier, then I was able to move kick start by hand. Kicked slowly (with my hand) over several times - maybe 3 or 4. Then it locked up again. Now - no movement.

Drained tranny oil - looks great. Drained coolant - same.

Drained engine oil.....well if I was panning for gold I'd be in business. There are a lot of flat brass shavings/chips - like glitter. All the shavings seem to be brass - nothing silver in color, as far as my aging eyes can see or my worn fingers can detect. Same issue on the filter - quite a bit of flat shavings.

Last bit of detail. I can shift through gears no problem - but when I pull in clutch, it doesn't seem to do anything. As in - the wheel is still locked up. It obviously should release it and let the wheel spin free. If I pull the clutch in, and bump it back and forth - it eventually works and I can then move the wheel as it normally would. I pulled the clutch cover on right side and the clutch plate moves in/out with the clutch lever - but that is as far as I went.

Please!

I'm hoping for a bit of guidance, advice, and possibly a good starting point.

I've turned a lot of wrenches in my life - more on cars, and not on bikes for a few years. I'll do as much as I reasonably can taking into account financial costs v. time.

Thanks in advance, especially if you've taken the time to read the whole post.

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I think the coppery crud in the oil is the key. sounds like you lost the big end of the rod. coppery looking stuff is the side bushings in there.

I'd be splitting the case just to see even if it did run. lots of metal bits in the oil is never good.

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With the clutch pulled in, and you kick it, does the bike lurch forward?

Ah yes, forgot that. Well with the clutch pulled in, I still can't kick (with my hand) it over. Still seized.

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I wouldn't worry about the clutch. Most of the CRF's only fully release the clutch when warm. Put the bike on a stand with the rear wheel up and see if you can get the engine to turn over. It sounds like your problem is in the bottom end. You are in for some work there, but if you are an experienced wrench turner its a job you can do with the Honda manual guiding you. You can buy the crank complete with bearings and rod. You will also need the full engine gasket and seal set.

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I wouldn't worry about the clutch. Most of the CRF's only fully release the clutch when warm. Put the bike on a stand with the rear wheel up and see if you can get the engine to turn over. It sounds like your problem is in the bottom end. You are in for some work there, but if you are an experienced wrench turner its a job you can do with the Honda manual guiding you. You can buy the crank complete with bearings and rod. You will also need the full engine gasket and seal set.

On a stand, I can neither kick it over in neutral, or while in gear get the engine to turn over my moving the rear wheel.

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+1, big end rod bearing, quit trying to make it run it'll just do more damage.

Gotcha. Thanks for the advice.

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