how hard should it be to start? single cam 610

how hard is too hard really? the history on the bike, a fully rebuilt motor with new fbf piston/rings, cut seats new valves/guides, its a 99 TC610, carb was carefully rebuilt and has not been run since. ive spent several hours of kicking with fresh gas, ive checked the sparkplug about 20 times just to make sure i have a good spark and that im not crazy and everything is operating properly and is on time. checked the valve lash yesterday, .1mm intake .15exhaust, exhaust seemed a little tight but not by much. so it all went back together. i tried the open throttle, decomp release with kill button and turn the motor over 10-20 times method for starting, no real luck. every once in a while ill get a bang in the exhaust when i eventually light off the raw fuel in it. it has only been in the mid 40's thru mid 50's F while trying to start. i think i wetted the plug once or twice also during my starting debacles. the closest i have come to running so far is backing the fuel screw out an extra turn that would be 2 1/2 turns and turning the idle up a bit and it chugged about 10 cycles and died. carb is a dellorto phm40 with accelerator pump. carb fills pretty full it seems but i may recheck float height again if this could be affecting fueling. i dont know what else to do at this point if maybe hard starting should be expected? i believe the cam timing is on from what i could tell while checking the valve lash, could it be a tooth off maybe if its firing and the exhaust valve is open and im getting ignition of fuel in the exhaust? thats my next guess, ill probly do a run through of the carb and valve clearance and plug again before i drain the coolant and take the rocker cover off to check the cam timing, sorry if this is a bit scattered i was just trying to get everything in there so everybody gets the complete picture, thanks for anybodys expertise and opinions

Find yourself a big hill on a bitumen road and bump start it,2nd or 3rd gear,get it rolling as fast as possible and drop the clutch while bouncing down in the seat,dont know how experienced you are,sorry for the newbe stuff

or try start you bastard,either spray into the airbox,at lest then you will know IFit will start then,

if its just been rebuilt it will be a tight as a tight thing,my 92 350 was an easy start,otherwise I would have not bought it,you have not mentioned the choke,on my 350 from cold,choke on,NO TOUCH THE THROTAL,one solid kick,easy to do as it had an auto decom,if it did not start after 3 or 4 kicks then full throttle manual decomp in and 10 kicks to clear it out then back to the earlier method.Keep us posted on how you go.

ah yea i forgot to mention the choke situation , tried all staring methods with and without choke, seemed to have no effect. i havent yet dwindled my hopes to a large downhill bumpstarting event, idk where to find such a place locally without getting the police involved haha. umm i guess thats another thing ive been overlooking, a little errr however much ether it takes to get it to fire, i usually stay away from starting fluid and bikes but i guess this is a special circumstance. my thread is the husqvarna cookbook thread, i want to post pics of the finnished product but i refuse to do so untill its running like a champ, right now its just stationary eye candy

I know what you mean,we have double demerits over christmas in Sydney,any speeding bust gets double points,the road bike gets put away and a low profile is maintained,you have a bit of a problem with the MX version rego wise,try a new plug,they can spark in the air but sometimes not under presure,and check the choke plunger for a hard rubber tip,it should not mater for cold starting but they will run rich if the choke leaks,the tip needs to be solf to seal,they can be pryed out and turned over and reatatched to the choke plunger,the ether is great stuff,helps a lot,and when its going you can set the mix screw to suit the smoothest fastest idle and that will help the starting

has a brand new choke plunger actually lol

Have you torn the carb down and checked the pilot? That bike should start pretty easily. Was it running before the rebuild?

if the motor and carb are right. and motor not full of gas. throttle the carb 2-5 times to get gas into the motor, then dont touch it till its running. slowly kick it till top dead center on compression, you should feel it. use the decompress to bump it slightly past TDC. then bring kicker up and kick it thru. should fire within a few kicks. if not, try starting fliud into the carb, yes its dangerous. to eliminate the gas situation. if it fires then dies, u have a gas problem. if it doesnt fire, u have a compression or electric problem.

oh boy carb has definitly been gone through lol, its about as close to new as it has ever been so everything should be free and clear, had a lenghty encounter with carb dip, every seal and oring was replaced, new main new pilot new slide spring new choke plunger new idle screw new fuel screw, has a fully squirty accelerator pump, idk depending on my level of desperation i may go thru again, ill have to invest in some staring fluid i suppose. oh also fugi thank u for bringing up the proper starting technique, i guess it sounds like i was just booting away untill blue in the face like alot of fools do when they claim they cant start their 610, i was actually using that very technique,,,,it was always flawless with my im not sure what gives here. maybe im out of practice lol? i havent ridden in 6 months haha. also nesc. bike did run ok when i got it but it but it was no champ for sure, it had a good first life, it was hill climbed...motocrossed....enduro' raced and supermoto raced. here is how it all began SS850186.jpg

and here is how its going to end lol

since it was painted, maybe a bad ground too? but u say u have spark. its hard to help over the internet. but if all is right, cam set right, carb set to factory setting, it should atleast fire with the right technique. 3 things. comp, fuel, spark. check to see u have all three.

since it was painted, maybe a bad ground too? but u say u have spark. its hard to help over the internet. but if all is right, cam set right, carb set to factory setting, it should atleast fire with the right technique. 3 things. comp, fuel, spark. check to see u have all three.

2+ and this might sound stupid........... but pull the air filter and make sure you didn't leave a rag in the intake while reassembling the motor.

By the way... nice looking bike!


So its had a touch more work done to it than I thought,it must be hard to take not getting it to fire,maybe sometime,I was going to say next year but its that now,happy starting mate.

dale u must of done that? i have..too. also carb slide in backwards. ?

grounding thats something else ive been lapsing on, how grounded does the ignition coil have to be? because honestly theres no good frame ground becuaes of the powder coating. i do get a good spark but is it possible its "weak" u would think i would fire even with a weak spark. also lol i was asking myself the other had to have taken the shop towels out of the intake right self??? lol of course it would be something stupid like that, i appreciate you's guy's assistance helping me walk myself thru this, i just need to get it out on paper u know

any place on the frame that was bare to begin with should be bare now. motor mounts, caliper bracket, coil, etc. if not for ground, so it doesnt loosen up as the paint wears.

yeah u can have a weak spark thats not enough to start it. the check of spark hurts. if u know what i mean.

good luck on gettin powder coat off. i scrape it with a razor blade. i dont use a sandin pad because it can take away metal.

Sounds like you found a possibilty with grounding!I powdercoated my te410 frame years ago and I thought the engine mounting points were clean of paint..NOT:banghead: ! ,AND I thought the spark was good enough..NOPE !I pulled the motor from the frame and sure enough ,the paint was still there as was the fresh engine paint.I did take the contact areas to bare metal,applied dieletric grease to those areas,reinstalled motor and it fired right up! You should also check all your grounds!! The Ducati ignition had the coil mount on the frame near the steering was grounded there and that area must be free of paint,don't just rely on the screw threads for ground 'cause they may have paint in them as well.The ignition module is mounted behind the number plate and has a ground wire(blue) that attaches to the holder... I ran a seperate wire from under that mounting point to clean bare metal ground at my ignition coil ground(as stated earlier).One last ground area to be concerned with is ,if you did paint the engine or just clear coat it, is to make sure the stator grounds are clean/bare metal.I know it sounds like a lot but being sure all the grounds are good will also add life to the electrical components because the electrical paths are free flowing (resistance will cause heat build up and will shorten their life).

I hope this is your situation,but some areas others touched on like the choke barrel,can cause hard starting...make sure the choke cable is adjusted properly. I know its hard to tell but be sure the barrel is moving inside the casing.It may work when you have the casing of the barrel off the carb,but the cable routing may affect its pulling or releasing of it.

Hope all this helps.Be patient and double check your work to avoid more exspenses.

Have a good day,

:busted: Guscycle

One other thing, I set my valves loose for break-in.

.005" or .13mm for intake during break in,then

.004" or .10mm for intake after break-in

.007" or .17mm for exhaust during break-in,then

.006" or .15mm for exhaust after break-in

:busted: Guscycle

One other thing, I set my valves loose for break-in.

.005" or .13mm for intake during break in,then

.004" or .10mm for intake after break-in

.007" or .17mm for exhaust during break-in,then

.006" or .15mm for exhaust after break-in

:busted: Guscycle

What year/model?

Lots of good suggestions offered. I had a 06 TE 610 which was driving me crazy, hard to start, stumbling until really warm. Messed with the jetting until I could scream. Got it as good as it seemed like I could get it and then as a last resort, switched to an iridium plug. Magic. Now starts easily (without fluid :)) and runs cleanly from the beginning. Joke closed nearly immediately after starting. Sometimes it's the easiest things that are overlooked.

A Muracle....

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