Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

drz400e O ring question

Recommended Posts

Using the excellent oil change FAQ GUIDE I started work on my 2007 DRZ400E ......I am new to the bike and a basic level workshop person (ok I am a dummy)....

The bike has done about 3500 miles (mostly commute into central london but about 400miles of green lanes in surrey/hampshire)...

So today .....I wished to change the oil and filter (its overdue) ....

Alas being an idiot I worked on the left hand side of the bike by the side stand and mistook the gearbox casing (the small one with 3 phillips screws on ) for the Oil filter cover .....

Now when I take of this gearbox housing there is an O ring that was covered with this grey milky oily liquid ......

I realised my mistake (doh) but when I tried to put the thing back on ...it looks like the o ring has expanded and it wont fit back in ....

my question is :-

1. I guess I just go down to the dealer and get a new o ring ....anyone know what part number or how to phrase the question ? or is there a tip to use the old one ?

2. Anything else I should be nervous of ......any tips oh wise ones ?

Yours wishing I had started on the other side of the bike.

Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nothing to worry about really.

Are you talking about o-ring #32?

2037_6.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it's that one then I doubt it expanded. Oil it and put the cover back on. It's a tight fit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes #32 is the one ....it was a perfect fit when i removed it but since it popped out ......now the o ring is loose ....really loose ....can I confirm it should be sighted in the recess on the cover part #31 from the diagram above ? Looks the only logical place for it ....but I have tried to get it back on ...but there always seems to be tooooo much ring to make it fit right ....

worried that i can get 60% of the ring in that recess ...then use a screwdriver to cram the rest in and quickly tighten up the screws !!

a smaller (unexpanded) o ring .....would be a nice fit ....but if you guys think that o ring would NOT expand ......(I am new to this game so I dunno) .....then will keep on coercing it !!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yes #32 is the one ....it was a perfect fit when i removed it but since it popped out ......now the o ring is loose ....really loose ....can I confirm it should be sighted in the recess on the cover part #31 from the diagram above ? Looks the only logical place for it ....but I have tried to get it back on ...but there always seems to be tooooo much ring to make it fit right ....

worried that i can get 60% of the ring in that recess ...then use a screwdriver to cram the rest in and quickly tighten up the screws !!

a smaller (unexpanded) o ring .....would be a nice fit ....but if you guys think that o ring would NOT expand ......(I am new to this game so I dunno) .....then will keep on coercing it !!

The o-rings always seem a little big but oil it up and it'll stick in place, in the groove, so you can get the cover on correctly and have a tight seal. Don't jab it with a screwdriver b/c then you'll have to get another on...:busted:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That O ring can be a pain. . Yes it fits in the groove on the cover (thats the starter torque limiter BTW)

Oil the O ring, place in the groove, fit the cover and use something LIKE a small flat blade screw driver, but dull, and rounded on the end (like a Popsicle stick) Use this tool to push in the O ring as you ft the cover that last bit. This can be done with just your finger tips also,, but it's hard to explain it that way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks very much ....will have a go later today ...good to know that i am not going mad ......(tho this bloody o ring will likely make me mad !!)

so what would you really call it anyway .....this cover ...#31

also >dongie> do you have the images online somewhere ??...the exploded diagram would be good to look at ...(i didnt get a manual from previous owner)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

MANY THANKS ......I *could* be back on the road for work 2mrw to save me from a train commute :busted: !!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Guys ...rode in this morning after heeding your advice :busted: ....used a dull pencil to poke the rest of the o ring back in ....but its strange .....would be much more satisfying if it seemed to fit without needing so much "TWEAKING" !!

anywho .... the rest of the oil change worked like the link <http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=665513>

would it not be worth stating in that page during step 5 ..."warning some idiots have started work on the left hand side and removed the wrong cover ....are you sure you know which is the oil filter? "

I won't make the same mistake but others might ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is a $12.00 USD "O" ring so it is not something you want to replace often. A new "O" ring is the right size and fits fine. Whatever rubber compound Suzuki uses for the "O" ring makes it swell up with time and hot oil. As long as it goes in with out being pinched out cut, it is fine. It is a PITA to get back in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Speaking of oil filter changes...I bought a couple of filters from my Suzuki dealer, and noticed the o-ring was no included with the filter. I asked the parts man, he said, "Oh, you don't really need it every time you change the oil." So, I did my change without the new o-ring, but I thought it was strange that Suzuki would not include a new o-ring with the filter. No leaks, so it's cool, but still strange.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Orings can be re-used many times, assuming they are in good condition. That is why they are used. Costs more to have the groove in the cover, but savings are realized over the long haul.

Do not forget there is a second, small oring in the filter cavity. Sometimes it sticks to the filter, sometimes it stays in the cavity. Keep an eye out for it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hiya. When you do get to change the oil get some new washers for the two drain plugs (frame and engine) and make sure you fit them with the flat side facing towards the bike. AND dont over tighten! Fill with 1.8 litres of fully synth 10/40 or better still Ester 15/50 (silkolene). Its the best part of £30 but worth it!

dan

Sorry didnt see page two! I see you've done it ok!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
"get some new washers for the two drain plugs (frame and engine) and make sure you fit them with the flat side facing towards the bike. AND dont over tighten!

Suzuki parts man did sell my 2 washers for the drain plug's ...but on my DRZ they are both 13 (or was it 14mm) bolts and only 1 of the washers fitted the bolt ! ....(so used the old one).... also can't remember if I put the washer on the way you mentioned ...what is the danger of putting them on the wrong way ?

I didnt tighten them up too hard either (will get a torque wrench soon) .....

I will change the oil again soon (now I know where the oil filter is !!) .... and only used cheapish 10/40 semi synthetic oil ..

.....you see the gear level got slammed against the case and left a weaping crack .....now plugged with plastic padding .....(should have read this first -> http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=626003 ....problem when you'd rather ride than tincker).

so i have a bodged crank case and reused washer ...and possibly and upside down new washer

watching for any messy deposits below the bike after the ride to work ....so far done 100miles and no issues ....so going to bolt back on sump guard and do some chalk/mud but change the oil soon ........now i must order one of these cases ....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hiya

I guess you undid the oil feed pipe from the oil tank in the frame rather than the drain plug which is smaller? If you do that you can clean the oil screen which is a good idea. Or did you only remove the plugs in the sump?

The risk of putting the washers on upside down is that they are slightly tapered and can cause the crank case to split, especially on the plug below the water pump.

You can do a pretty good mend on the case with JB weld or similar (better than plastic padding ) - until you can find a replacement, and yes the case savers are essential! They are less than £20 on Ebay when I bought mine, fix on with at least 1mm layer of silcoflex or silicone.

To be honest I reuse washers too but its probably a false economy!

You know to run the engine for at least 3 mins then leave for 3 mins before checking the oil?

All the best

Dan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi K4leem

I have also re-used the crush washer a few times but replaced both of them last time.

About your oil - don't worry about it. Last three oil changed I just use standard 10-40 semi-synth.

There is a mass of threads on here (and many other vehicle related forums) about which oil to use. Fully synth is best but costs more so the question is whether or not you feel you need it - Suzuki don't.

I'm in two minds, next change I might give it a go to see if I can feel any difference but I certainly wouldn't be rushing to dump my current oil, unless that's the interval your choosing to follow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×