DRZ E carb questions


I have RTFF and still am unclear on a few things.

I am currently trying to get the 2001 DRZ-E of my brother to run that sat for probably more than a year. I cannot seem to find a good diagram or how-to for this particular FCR -which is NOT an MX version. I have already bought $50+ in jets (primarily pilot) only to find that they are NOT for this carb, but for an FCR MX carb. The pilots are different and I doubt that I even need them.

If anyone knows where a good diagram or "how to" tune of the original FCR that came on these bikes, I would be very appreciative.

The problem...

The bike used to run fantastic -in fact, I bought the bike for my brother and rode it for a month easily. I happen to know the DRZ a bit as I have a 2002 S model with an FCR MX carb from carb parts warehouse. Mine runs great, but is not the same carb -at least not the pilot or PAJ...

Now the bike will not idle at all unless choked. I have the idle all the way up, such that it cannot be turned any further. -I would like to get it back in the sweetspot if possible when all done here...When manually holding the throttle to as low of an idle as possible so it will not die right away, the bike will idle for a bit before it sort of flames out (a pop right as it dies).

I have replaced the pilot (somehow I had another 45 as well as a 42 in my tool kit). The PAJ is stock (either 65 or 85 as my eyes are too weak to tell). I have run SeaFoam through the tank, and have cleaned the needle. Not pulled the slide as I cannot see how it comes out, but it has not been removed and seems that it cannot really go in incorrectly due to the angled slide. The fuel squirts when the slide is lifted. The float appears to be set properly by eyeballing it, but I cannot tell for certain as I do not have a spec or manual for it. The bike has (had) the CE still installed and per forum instructions, I pulled it, plugged the intake side nipple and connected the two fittings on the airbox side -which I found odd as one was a fitting while the other looked like a jet of some sort).

I have not replaced the sparkplug yet, as I will head to the local dealer to pick one up once their doors open today. I am not hopeful that they will have the jets I would like to properly remove the CE...they are a newer dealer and rarely have parts for any bikes that I have.

Specs as I recall during one of the many disassembles:

65 or 85 PAJ

165 Main

45 Pilot

OBDXP needle on 5th clip

I have the flex jet fuel screw (a life saver when battling carb issues!!) Currently 3 turns out, but since the bike will not idle, it is sort of pointless where I have it set...I have gone from all the way in to just over 3 out.

What would be nice is a clear concise description of what a proper carb cleaning might entail. I realize that it may need a proper cleaning, but as you may have guessed, I am not too clear on what that would need to be done, what supplies would be needed, etc.

Sorry for the long rant, any help is appreciated.

One a plus side, I have become pretty good at getting this carb in and out of the bike. Still takes longer than I would like, but that is because I find that removing the subframe lower bolts, igniter (?), crankcase breather, throttle cables and exhaust are all required to fully remove the carb without risk of damage.

Thanks, and happy new year,

Mike in Tracy CA

If the bike sat, I can assure you, the pilot has crap in it unless the carb was stored dry (float bowl removed and dried completely). The ports in the carb are fairly large, metering is all by the jets so it compressed air passes through the, they are probably ok.

Cleaning a pilot jet is often fruitless as it must 110% spotless. Because the holes in it are so small, even the thinest layer of varnish affects it. If you try and pass a small wire through it, the jet is garbage as even a scratch changes its' size.

+1 on William.... Sounds like its dirty. Replace the plug while your at it but sounds like a new pilot jet would fix you up.

I just installed a FCRMX on my S and it purrs like a kitten. Had to use the 160 main not the 155 but that was the only adjustment. Except that my fuel screw got a little bent but still works fine....

EDIT: Just saw you are in CA. You have the canister removed as well?

The pilot that is now in it is new. I question the origin of it as I was surprised to find that I had a 42 and a 45 sitting in my carb parts box, but it looks very clear, no signs of varnish and no signs of having ever been used before -color or even marks from screwdriver.

I am off to the dealers to see if they may have any parts that might help.

I have not gone the compressed air route yet. Will do that later today (after a visit to the MX track for a few motos).

Thanks for responding,


ok I have a 05 drz400sm and just got a new fcr39mm carb for it . the bike has full yosh, exhaust 3x3 air box modd and a k&n filter what jetting should I use?

Now the bike will not idle at all unless choked.-----Certainly an indication of a dirty pilot jet or some problem in the pilot circuit.

The PAJ is stock (either 65 or 85 as my eyes are too weak to tell).---Actually 60. It is the jet next to the 200 in the air bell. 65 jet is the starter fuel jet down in the fuel bowl

Slide cannot really go in incorrectly due to the angled slide.--- The roller slide fits 1 way but the floating plate in front can be upside down. As you open the slide, light must appear in the center not around the sides. A real problem if it is upside down. Many books including Suzuki shop manual show it upside down. To remove the slide, unscrew the lock nut and jack screw that hold the lever to the shaft.

The fuel squirts when the slide is lifted.---OK

The float appears to be set properly by eyeballing it----9mm

I found odd as one was a fitting while the other looked like a jet of some sort----Yes that is the second air jet (90) that was controlled by the CE. With the 60 and 90 both open, they function as a 110 air jet. Assure both jets are clean.

CE removal jets----The only jet you will need is a 100 air jet to replace the 60. Older KTM's with the same slant body FCR used the 100 jet.

Specs as I recall during one of the many disassembles:

65 or 85 PAJ---No, 60

165 Main---OK

45 Pilot---OK

OBDXP needle on 5th clip---OK

What would be nice is a clear concise description of what a proper carb cleaning might entail.-----Clean jets, mostly. And clean out any gunk in the bowl. As fuel evaporates it leaves gunk below the liquid line. Most of the carb will be clean even when you see fuel residue.

I realize that it may need a proper cleaning, but as you may have guessed, I am not too clear on what that would need to be done, what supplies would be needed, etc.-----Do not immerse in caustic carb cleaners. Lacquer thinner, spray carb cleaner, compressed air, soap and water, tooth brush.

In conflict with other good advise, I have never replaced a jet because it was dirty and I often use wires to poke out jets. I find wires from a wire brush are usually small enough to fit thru a jet. A 45 pilot jet is 0.45mm dia (.018 inch). So if you are going to poke out the jet, the wire should to be .015 or smaller. Replacement is of course a good option to cleaning.

LOL, if you had a 45 and a 42, what size do you have in the carb? Will be worth a gander.

ok I have a 05 drz400sm and just got a new fcr39mm carb for it . the bike has full yosh, exhaust 3x3 air box modd and a k&n filter what jetting should I use?

You really should start your own thread. Also, identify where the FCR cam from (used-What bike, new-model)?

I should have added, that the specs I posted in the original post were in fact the carb as it currently sits.

The PJ installed was a 45 as well. It looked worse for wear...meaning even after blowing out with air, it did not look as wide open as the 45 that I replaced it with.

I just verified the float, seems dead nuts on at 9mm. This is me holding the carb upright, and lifting the float until the valve is just seated...

Still dont see how to remove the slide, but the slide plate is correct.

Also, I noticed something that I had not noticed before.

The cam tab that the idle adjust lifts seems misaligned. I never noticed this before and did look at it. But today, if I try to turn the idle screw, the screw lifts but the tab falls off to the side, rendering the lift ineffective. I am fairly certain that this was not a problem before, BUT is it entirely possible. I am going to look into this more. There seems to be a fair amount of slide on that assembly which I imagine should not be there. And at the moment, it seems that even if I move it inwards so that the tab sits over the idle adj, it is not centered. I will be looking at this more closely.

If this does not make sense, I may snap a photo or two.

Waiting for friends to call before heading to the track...



The throttle wheel not sitting on the idle adjustment screw could well be your issue.

The partially blocked pilot is exactly why I always replace them. For the cost of a new jet, the frustration is simply not worth it.


thanks for the detailed response.

There are some things that you said that have me confused. My PAJ is actually either a 65 or an 85 (it is not a 60 as you mentioned). But that is not what has me confused, it is your description of the location. On this older carb, the PAJ is actually next to the main. On one side is the pilot, the middle is the main, and the other side is the PAJ -right next to the MAJ. This is what caused me a lot of confusion early on as it did not match with either my CRF450 or my DRZ400 with the CPW carb. There is nothing replaceable on my bell as far as I can tell.

I cannot find a 200 anything in my carb, but I am just getting it disassembled completely today.

Later this evening or tomorrow morning, I will have a new plug, plus everything will hopefully have been washed with soapy water and blown dry using compressed air.

Is brake cleaner (the spray type) or spray carb cleaner acceptable to use for cleaning the carb?

what can I use to spray from the top down (slide area where you access needle)?

Thanks everyone, I gotta run, but will be back.


The PAJ is in the carb bell. The three jets together in the float bowl are the pilot jet, main jet and starter jet.

Do not use carb cleaner, there are rubber parts you cannot get to and the cleaner will/may ruin them. Use contact or brake parts cleaner instead.

There seems to be a fair amount of slide on that assembly which I imagine should not be there. ---There is an adjustment for that. Under the top cap is the slide. On the lever that lifts the slide is a screw with a slotted piece clamped by the screw. Loosen (do not remove) the screw an slide the piece over to adjust end play. Then look at the throttle wheel and idle stop screw alignment. If needed, bend the stop a little to align with stop screw. The stop screw can also get bent by accident but usually that is lower on the screw from taking the carb in and out.

PAJ (Pilot air jet) and MAJ (main air jet) are located on the carb main body under the removeable air bell that connects to the air cleaner. MJ (main jet) and PJ (pilot jet), or in this case to be more specific main fuel jet and plot fuel jet, are located in the fuel bowl as described by William.

You can use carb spray cleaner on metal parts removed from the carb body. Good for cleaning jets. You can use carb spray cleaner on the carb body if you rinse immediately with WD40 and blow dry with compressed air. But there really is not much need to. WD40 is safe and works well to verify passages are open.


Thanks. I am starting to get a better understanding and sorry for being so dense. The bell did not look all that removeable upon initial inspection..., possibly because it is such an old carb it was not so obvious like my other carbs. I found the 200 MAJ and the pilot air. They appear to be what you mentioned as far as sizing.

I also believe that I was able to remove the slide slop from the throttle wheel assembly, and that it is now more properly aligned. I am including some images so that other might learn?

Worth noting is the PJ-Starter image, where you see that the PJ is NOT the same type of pilot that comes on the newer carbs. In fact, I still have not been able to locate the damn things at any store or shop a of yet. As mentioned previously, I now have a lifetime supply of pilot jets for my other FCR carbs though...


After Adjustment




I am still not clear where I should be spray BrakeKleen...I have removed each and every jet that I have been able to find, and sprayed them out with either brakekleen or carb cleaner. I then used compressed air on each jet to dry them. I have not used any cleaners on the passageways yet, only using compressed air thus far.

Should I reassemble now or am I still missing some key cleaning steps?

Thanks again everyone, BTW -the track was nice yesterday and had a great day (ran 4 motos, 2 of which were about 30 minutes) :busted:. I am sore, but am thinking today might be a good day to get in another couple of motos...



You say you have all the jets out: main jet, pilot jet, starter jet, main air jet, pilot air jet, the little 90 jet in the side nipple, the emulsion tube (main jet holder), fuel screw, and starter plunger. You could also remove the slide if that area looks dirty which it usually is. In B-4 adjustment picture, loosen the hex with the scew in the middle, then remove the screw. That will allow the lever to be rotated up and lift the slide out. Then I would just give it all a good scrubbing with soap and water and a tooth brush, blow dry and reassemble. Clean the jets with spray carb cleaner. There is nothing wrong with the 45 pilot jet in the picture. Run a .015 wire thru it (spark plug gage wire) blow it out with spray carb cleaner, blow with air, look thru it to see if it is clear. Note the orientation of the floating plate that comes out with the slide. Center notch down. Also inspect the seal between the floating plate and the roller slide. That seal needs to be in good condition.

I also see from the pictures you have an aftermarket throttle wheel. Odd that the jetting is stock except for the main jet.

I recently disassembled my FCR, removed all of the jets, the AP assembly and the slide and soaked the entire body in a 50-50 mix of water and Simple Green Max. The carb was completely submerged and I left it for about a day and a half. It's about eight years old (removed from a 2000 E).

I'm traveling and haven't gotten it reassembled but I can tell you it looked light-years better after the soak. Almost new.

Also, as mentioned I removed the slide. I did this initailly to check for wear. I didn't find any excessive wear in the carb body but one of the four "wheels" on the slide would not spin freely. I shot it with some brake cleaner and soaked it with the carb body. Now it spins with no resistance.


slide plate goes sqaure end down.

so there are differences between the fcr mx jets and the regular fcr? im just getting the jetting together on my bike and i guess i need to know this.

yes the pilot jets and pilot air jets are different styles.

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