Kicking effort, can it be made easier?

Just got a 2006 YZ250 with a few mods on it--VHM cylinder head (stock compression insert), PC pipe, V Force reeds. At first it seemed to me that the kicking effort was more than I remembered other 2 strokes to be.

I confirmed it when I rode my buddy's KTM200, that was really easy to kickstart. What can I change to make the effort less on my YZ? Most of the time it's okay, but I know that when I get stalled on a hill in a compromising position, I'll want it as easy as possible to start.

I only ride trails, almost all tight single track. I'm short (5'6") so having less kicking effort makes a difference. I'm coming off of a WR250f so if a modifcation takes away a little bit of power that's okay since the YZ has a ton more than the WR!

Lower compression head insert, or lengthen the kick starter. That's about it really.

The 200 is easier to kick because, well, it's a 200. The larger to bore the harder it is to push against that compression.

Rekluse.........if you ride well and don't have to wait for your buddies at every trail intersection then you can literally kick the bike only once per day. However, that never happens.:busted:

Gain weight.

Spray "start ya bastard" or equiv into the air filter. It should start first kick no worries :busted:

Or start on a hill and clutch start the thing.

how many hours on your buddy's ktm? low compression will make it real easy to kick and it'll still start

um diffrence in compression or might help a bit is spark plug gap?

Spark plug gap is not going to do much. How could it possibly change anything?

I dont believe my yz is the easiest to kick bike I have ever dealt with. When starting it I wish I had my 20 lb weight loss back. However, mine does start within 1-2 kicks. Its tough enough that there is no way I would try it without mx boots on.

It hasn't been covered yet but this is what I use for a cold start:

Turn fuel on, tip bike over to get some gas to leak out of the overflow vent, blip throttle twice, slowly and deliberately move the kickstarter two to three cycles without intending to start it, then bring it back to the top and give it a good kick with boots on. Starts on the first try for me. This is also termed as priming the cylinder full of fuel prior to starting it. This only works if the bike is in good shape to begin with. Also, run Sta-Bil in your mix as you may not be riding as frequently during the winter........

For a hot start if your jetting is good and the plug/piston & cylinder/air filter are attended to it should fire in one half kick.

It hasn't been covered yet but this is what I use for a cold start:

Turn fuel on, tip bike over to get some gas to leak out of the overflow vent, blip throttle twice, slowly and deliberately move the kickstarter two to three cycles without intending to start it, then bring it back to the top and give it a good kick with boots on. Starts on the first try for me. This is also termed as priming the cylinder full of fuel prior to starting it. This only works if the bike is in good shape to begin with. Also, run Sta-Bil in your mix as you may not be riding as frequently during the winter........

For a hot start if your jetting is good and the plug/piston & cylinder/air filter are attended to it should fire in one half kick.

Tahts the same way my dad starts his olk KTM 500. I had no clue it worked on other bikes.

Tahts the same way my dad starts his olk KTM 500. I had no clue it worked on other bikes.

Saves the kickshaft too. :busted:

Hijack: post up some pics of that old IT. :moon:

KTM 300 no kicking

Man, my buddy just got a new Estart KTM300, sweeeet. But that's one tall bike for a short dude like me. I sat on it with flip flops on,and with the bike straight, neither foot touches the ground :busted: Pretty funny actually.

The bike starts in one or two kicks almost all the time, that's not the issue. Wish it were as easy to kick as my DRZ125 was when it was stock. That's almost how the KTM's feel.

99.5% of the time, it's fine. I'm just worried about that .5% when I'm on an off-cambered hill and have to restart--the less effort the better right?

99.5% of the time, it's fine. I'm just worried about that .5% when I'm on an off-cambered hill and have to restart--the less effort the better right?

This may take more time but in the end less effort for you: roll down the hill and bump start it then find a spot to turn around and head back up. Off camber hills are tough unless your kicker side of the engine is on the uphill side.

Saves the kickshaft too. :busted:

Hijack: post up some pics of that old IT. :moon:

Sorry don't have any pics yet too muddy to get to my shed.

yep, when i had my 125 i could start it first kick every time, the kick starters on those things are short as crap too! Then i switched to my 250f and was too much kicking :busted:. then once i got to a yz250 its definatly harder than a 125. My 250 with a new topend, you can definatly feel a lot of compression.

Probaly your best bet it to get a longer kick starter. not sure how it would mount up though.

Looks like I'll just be eatin' Wheaties every morning!

Rekluse.........if you ride well and don't have to wait for your buddies at every trail intersection then you can literally kick the bike only once per day. However, that never happens.:busted:

I second the Rekluse! Excellent product..If you get one you won't be kickin' it because of a stall!:moon:

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