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What weight oil do i use in my CRF450 shock?

Manual says a "22" oil, is that a weight 2,2?

I have put 5 wt fork oil in it now and it seems fine but is it too thick?

I haven't ridden bike yet.

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What weight oil do i use in my CRF450 shock?

Manual says a "22" oil, is that a weight 2,2?

I have put 5 wt fork oil in it now and it seems fine but is it too thick?

I haven't ridden bike yet.

What kind of fork oil?

Some fork oils should not be used...but others work fine.

Depends on the oil, you will probably be fine, ride it and see what you think. If anything, you may need to go out on the clickers some.

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Please don't take this the wrong way, but did you seriously change the oil in your rear shock? Because it doesn't sound like you know what you are doing.

But, to answer your question, I used the Maxima Pro 3w shock oil in my shock.

ben

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I used to use the pro honda 5w that was recommended in the service manual but that weight of oil caused the shock to overpower the forks. I have switched to Maxima racing shock fluid light(3w) for my showa shocks and KYB K2C for my kayaba shocks, they are probably the same oil since maxima bottles both of them.

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Because it doesn't sound like you know what you are doing.

Why that response, are you an suspension expert? My shock wasn't as good as it used to be (08 CRF/65hrs on it) and my suspension tuner said it needed new oil and maybe seals and the nitrogyn pressure was only 6 Bar (85Psi).

He said the nitrogyn slowly passes through the rubber bladder.

So i decided to give it an oil service myself and see what is does before completely take it apart and save some money.

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The reason you got that answer is because you really dont know what you are doing here - well at least knowing how to do it correctly. Most likely you have not bleed the shock properly thus have air in the fluid still. YOu have to completely disassemble the shock to change out the fluid.

First off the bladder HOLDS the nitrogen. It passes NO where in the shock. You also need about 145 psi in the bladder.

Second, you have to bleed the shock properly. Also use oil that is designed for the shock. I have always used Torco Light shock oil in mine with good results. I would not want to install the wrong fluid, then go ride and have to change it out again. That is a lot of work by the time you bleed the shock and then recharge the bladder.

I would suggest to look at the Sticky threads at top of the crf450 page, look at the one that says DYI suspension by Dogger. In there is a break down of what you need to be doing for not only revalving the shock, but also how to bleed it properly.

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I DID read that sticky and also the manual but since i only wanted an oil change/recharge i followed the following post wich seems logical and simple to me(did not know how to link to it so i copied that post here) and about the nitrogen, i know the bladder holds it but a cartyre is also not 100% airtight that's why some fill them with nitrogen because molecules are bigger and tyre holds pressure longer but still not 100% thight.

This is the post i followed, maybe wrong then...

It is stupid easy to change the oil, save yourself the dollars and do it yourself... I was amazed when I did it.

1) Take shock off the bike

2) Remove spring

3) Release nitro pressure

4) remove high speed dampening adjuster

5) Dump out oil though the hole, pump it to get it all out.

6) re fill with shock oil (I like maxima racing 3wt), slowly move the shock shaft to bleed it. Go until no air bubbles come out. I do it 10-15 times.

7) tilt the shock so all of the air bubbles come out from the bladder area, you go almost upright.

8) fill with 7(seven) or so psi of air, oil will come up, replenish as needed.

9) fill with oil to the top of the threads for the adjuster

10) slowly install the adjuster, oil will spill out thats ok. as you tighten it down, you will see air bubbles and oil come out.

11) release the air

12) Get it charged with 142 psi of nitrogen.

It is faster and easier than doing the forks I think.

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I am no expert at bleeding shocks, but I do see a couple of things with that sequence that don't seem right. First you need to fully disassemble the shock so that you can be 100% that you got out all contaminants, then you can inspect all parts for wear and replace as needed. The way that you describe you are only removing the high speed adjuster and can not possibly see what is going on inside. Secondly I beleive that you will still have a significant amount of air trapped both behind and inside the piston. I followed Doggers thread to the "T" and have not had any problems. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=390319&page=4

I do not know where you found that link, but to me it seems like a half hearted way to do a job that is not that hard to do in the first place. I would take the time to do it right the first time and not worry about it again until next season. Either way good luck

Dan :thinking:

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It is good that you are learning to do this, but from your own description, you aren't doing it right. There is definately more to it than just reading some simple instructions. See if you can get your suspension tuner to let you watch him build a few shocks. I did this with a friend my first time and it helped me tremendously. I now do all of my own suspension work, including revalves. I have all of the right tools, including a nitrogen tank and regulator. I also have lots of references and manuals that I use, including the Internet.

Trial and error is ok, but the shock and suspension is a big deal that you don't want to take lightly. Get it wrong and it will most likely cost you a lot of money. If you are lucky, you won't get hurt in the process.

Everyone who has posted as only had the intent to help you. Not insult you.

ben

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Also, just so you know, I've changed the fluid at least 4 times now on my 2008 that also has 65 hours on it. That isn't including the times I changed it as part of revalving the shim stacks.

When you let the oil get that old, you are going to have wear that otherwise could have been prevented by servicing the shocking more often. At least do it every 20 hours. I bet the used oil that came out looked more like an Ale beer than it did oil.

You need to break that shock down completely, and clean and inspect everything with a trained eye.

ben

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At least do it every 20 hours. I bet the used oil that came out looked more like an Ale beer than it did oil.

hmm, I think my shock oil is the same stuff as the factory put in it back in 05... I should probably change that.

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hmm, I think my shock oil is the same stuff as the factory put in it back in 05... I should probably change that.

:thinking::smirk: :smirk: :(:lol: :lol:

To be honest, I took apart my 2008 suspension after only about 2 hours of riding and found that the oil front and rear had not been filled properly from the factory.

You might discover a whole new bike if you service yours after all this time.

ben

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Well, this afternoon i went to a suspension tuner to let him do the oilchange/recharge.

He took the shock apart as most of you already mentioned and started from there.

I was amazed how much handling it took before it was completely bleeded and i think i couldn't repeat all these handlings in the right order.

Still i would like to learn it myself and did a lot of reading about shock rebuilds later this afternoon on TT and similar but can't say i fully understand every step of the way.

Still searching for a shock rebuild video because i don't have a friend who rebuilds shocks and is willing to learn me the details.

I'm from Netherlands and while my english is fairly good i think sometimes i miss important details when for example reading the sticky by the Dogger.

Thanks for your comments, i have to get more knowledge first, but for now my shock is ok.

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You might discover a whole new bike if you service yours after all this time.

ben

hmm, I definately will, I hate the suspension on my dirtbike, its too stiff.

I changed my fork oil and seals the other day and it hasnt improved.

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hmm, I definately will, I hate the suspension on my dirtbike, its too stiff.

I changed my fork oil and seals the other day and it hasnt improved.

Did you change the fluid on the inner chamber too, or just the outer chamber?

ben

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Did you change the fluid on the inner chamber too, or just the outer chamber?

ben

yup, 3wt all around.

300ml in inner chambers.

400ml in outer chambers.

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yup, 3wt all around.

300ml in inner chambers.

400ml in outer chambers.

400 is probably too much in the outer. And 300 seems way too much for the inner unless you had oil going everywhere when you bled out the inner.

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400 is probably too much in the outer. And 300 seems way too much for the inner unless you had oil going everywhere when you bled out the inner.

Shawn beat me to it. Couldn't agree more. Your forks feel like crap because you have too much oil in them. I put 200 in my inner chamber and still have some burp out when I bleed them. I run about 380 in the outter, and I weigh about 210 with my gear on.

ben

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400 is probably too much in the outer. And 300 seems way too much for the inner unless you had oil going everywhere when you bled out the inner.

I am sorry, I mixed the numbers up.

it is 200 inner, 300 outer.

I measured the amount of 5wt oil that poured out, and replaced that exact amount with 3wt oil. 300ml came out, 300ml went back in.

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GREAT THREAD ON SHOCK OIL CHANGE.

I have been using Maxima Shock Oil 3 weight any one using Pro Honda SS-25 SHOCK OIL - you see a difference??????

Edited by TX-SANDMAN
sp

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