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PW 80 questions.

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Smacaroni,

Thank you for that.

I can now throw away the two CDI's that I have just purchased and failed to get working.

And yes I can see now that the KX60's run the same system  (well most of them)

Just about all aftermarket CDI's allow for a trigger system.

It seems that the early PW80's have the older ignition systems where as the later model ones run a completely different system.

 

The only question I have is that the PW80 has a fire wire CDI where as the KX60 only has 4 wires (see attachments)

This is a little confusing, so I can assume you can help me with that?

 

PW80 

 

Orange wire  -  coil

Black/white  -  switch block

black wire  -  earth with twin connection

 

Black/red  -  stator power

black    -  stator earth

 

KX60

 

4 wires  one of which splits?  (see attachment)

 

Thank you again.

101_1823.JPG

kawasaki-2001-kx60-b17-kx60-generator_bigkar08235297_8e24.gif

$(KGrHqR,!q4F!-crY81(BQklwy6Qhg~~60_12.jpg

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I just have a story that I thought I should share about the PW80 and how tough it is.

I have an 02' PW80, we got it in 05'.

It was our first two stroke bike. I knew absolutely nothing about bikes (i was only 11 years old), and I always had four strokes so premix was unknown to me.

Anyways, from 05 to the summer of 2012, we rode the piss out of this thing. With no premix. It stopped running at the end of summer 12'.

Fast forward to today, I have decent bike knowledge and I go to rebuild the top end.

It was ugly. Real ugly. The cylinder got so hot at some points that pieces of the piston got welded to it.

2 hours with some sandpaper and the cylinder was usable again. Put new top end in and it started first kick.

Oh, and I discovered the oil injection reservoir for the first time since ive owned the bike. Filled that up.

Runs like a dream now, and I will be taking care of it from now on 🙂

Just thought it was crazy that we put so many hours on the poor bike with no premix and it lasted that long. Crazy

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Mike, yes, you probably emptied the oil injection tank which screwed the top end. IMHO, you probably want to have the cylinder bored, honed and put in a O/S piston. However, I'm not the least bit surprised that it's running again after cleaning up the piston. (don't ever do that again. Serious. Not for a $200 bike and definitely not on a $2,000 bike.)

 

Smacaroni,

Thank you for that.

I can now throw away the two CDI's that I have just purchased and failed to get working.

And yes I can see now that the KX60's run the same system  (well most of them)

Just about all aftermarket CDI's allow for a trigger system.

It seems that the early PW80's have the older ignition systems where as the later model ones run a completely different system.

 

The only question I have is that the PW80 has a fire wire CDI where as the KX60 only has 4 wires (see attachments)

This is a little confusing, so I can assume you can help me with that?

 

PW80 

 

Orange wire  -  coil

Black/white  -  switch block

black wire  -  earth with twin connection

 

Black/red  -  stator power

black    -  stator earth

 

KX60

 

4 wires  one of which splits?  (see attachment)

 

Thank you again.

Sorry about giving you the bad news on those aftermarket ignitions. You might find some pit bike guys who might buy them though.

 

To the discussion at hand, I don't remember all the details about the KX60 CDI. However, I'm certain the orange wire is the coil, the one with the eye is a ground and that leaves two wires that go to the CDI. I would suggest plugging it in and see if it works, but for me it didn't. You just need to reverse the male and female bullet connectors on the CDI and it'll work. If you did the elongated slot mod I did, take the time to fiddle with the timing to get it making the most power. I don't recall off the top of my head where it ran best on the KX60 CDI, but it shouldn't be too hard to find.

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Hello Smacaroni,

I have just received my KX60 CDI but there seems to be two similar units out there.

I have attached one of your photos showing your PW80 and KX60 CDI's.

The other two is of the KX60 CDI I have just obtained.

 

I just need a little help with wiring it up.  (I havn't even attempted it yet)

 

This is what I am thinking:

 

Orange female wire  -  to  Coil  (orange wire too)

 

Black/Red stripe wire that splits with two female ends  -  stator/generator   (one to black, other to Black with red stripe)

 

Black/Yellow stripe wire  with male plug  -   To the earth for the switch block/ coil

Wire/Red stripe wire with female plug -  Switch block wire  (black with white stripe)

 

 

The funny black plug with the White/red wire and Black/yellow wire seem to throw me.

I cannot find a picture of a KX60 kill switch on the internet that would plug into it for reference purposes.

 

Thank you in advance

 

 

 

101_1823.JPG

KX60.JPG

KX60..JPG

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What does the part number on the other side of the box read?

 

I'm sure this can be made to work, but we need to find out what it is, clearly it's different than the KX60 CDI that I got (which came off of a KX60 I used for parts.)

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Smacaroni,

 

Part number 3273   1706

There seems to be  two slightly different CDI units.

 

Can you at least remember where the single wire that splits into two connections goes?

It is the black wire with the red stripe.

Your KX60 CDI had this split wire to.

 

I am assuming that the two wires from the PW80 stator/generator plug into this split wire?

 

Miller

 

 

 

 

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I did some checking around, it's probably still a Mitsubishi part, but I can't find anything with that part number.

 

However! It looks like the early KX60 CDI, so that's probably what it is.

 

0_0.png

source: http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/kaw/50a63785f870022c14fc4640/generator (1985? KX60)

From my memory on the CDI I had and staring at the photo (mostly staring at the photo) I'm pretty sure the split wire, had 2 female ends. It plugs into the female side of the PW80 stator, that's why I had to make a gender changer.
Orange is almost certainly the spark plug coil.
So, I'd guess the male side of the paired plug (black/yellow) goes to the male side of the stator, which leaves the white wire as the kill switch, OR it could be a an extra ground although that's less likely.
You wouldn't by chance be able to get your hands on the donor bike's kill switch, or at least a picture of the connectors on the switch and stator, would you? Even if you bought it on eBay, you may be able to check the seller's other auctions to get the info with out bugging him.

 

If not, I'd try this:

orange -> coil

one side of black/red to the female side of the stator, I think this is also black/red (sorry, I don't have colors handy to confirm)

from the paired connector, the male side goes to the male side of the stator, I think this is solid black.

Leave white untouched for now, I think this is going to be the kill switch.

 

Connect the whole thing together, pull the spark plug, ground it and kick it over. Have someone watch for a spark. Or, for more fun, have someone hold the spark plug and the bike frame. (ok, don't you could, in theory, kill someone this way.... spoil all my fun...)

 

 

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OK I will give it a go tonite.

So where does the other end of the split black and red wire go?

And yes it has two female connectors,

 

And what about a ground wire?

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The PW80 stator is grounded on one side. Pretty easy to find by tracing the wires. The second side of the split might be a ground for the kill switch, I forget. However, the PW80 kill switch uses a ground to the frame instead, IIRC by the plug coil. I'm speculating here, but since both the split wire goes to the ground on the stator and the kill switch ground goes to the frame, it's unnecessary.

 

Remember that you'll probably need to adjust the ignition timing after you're done, so if it makes less power or revs poorly when first connected, it's because the timing of the stator is different. If you've already slotted the stator plate, this is pretty easy to correct for.

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Hello Smacaroni,

The night before the KX60 CDI arrived I blew the stator coil on my PW80 so I am awaiting a new one.

I accidentally started the bike with the exhaust bung in and once it stopped I couldn't get it started again.

So I havn't had a chance to hook up the KX60 CDI.

 

I am about 95% sure that this CDI will not work in the PW80.

There was three CDI variants available:   21119-1312, 21119-1400 and 21119-1485

 

I have attached a copy of the wiring diagram for the KX60's

As you can see, most models had three wires comming from the stator. 

 

I have attached two different KX60 stators, one with a single coil and the other with twin coils.

 

I am sure that all these KX60 did't have a separate trigger system?

And I am thinking that some had a single coil and some had two stator coils?

 

It's just really confusing, especially when one of the stator wires is white with a red stripe.

This wire usually goes to a separate trigger in most other Yamaha models!

 

I am beginning to think that my only option is to purchase a new flywheel and stator plate set from e-bay.

As some of these have twin coils and a separate trigger system.

 

If you could shed some insite I would really appreciate it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

DSC01033.JPG

$T2eC16hHJGkE9no8jDc9BRL(Y+S8Bg~~60_1.jpg

ST3611.jpg

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I only have experience with the CDI that uses this stator:

post-326960-0-96776500-1384729337.jpg

 

Some may have had a pulser coil and a charging coil, I don't know. The CDI I used, with no paired wires is from a 1995? KX60.

 

However, I'm thoroughly confused that the "exhaust bung"? Is this a wash plug?

327-011299.jpg

Should not have had any impact on your bike's electrical system.

 

In fact, I know a diesel mechanic who keeps a 2 litre bottle in his work area as the only means to shut off a large diesel engine with a run away turbo. (I don't quite understand, you'd think removing the fuel would be faster...???) I digress, exhaust and electrical are totally separate unless one of the wires contacted the exhaust pipe and melted the casing.

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Hello Smacaroni,

I installed the new stator coil and got the bike running again.  But I was unable to get the KX60 CDI to work.

Most of the KX60's have a two coil system and one must be a separate trigger.

And yes there are three different KX60 CDI's through the years (3 different part numbers)

 

And yes I do have confirmation that the PW80 factory CDI does indeed have a built in REV limit set at 10,000rpm

 

Most aftermarket copies of the factory unit have a built in REV limit to 12,000rpm (see first attachment)

But they require an aftermarket stator with the extra stator coil and/or trigger.

 

So this is my next move:

 

I am going purchase a full replacement PW80 ignition system  (see second attachment)

I will then be able to finally use any  the three other CDI's I have just purchased (KX60,  Progress Racing, New Racing)

 

I will keep you updated...........

 

CDI.jpg

ignition-kit-200.jpg

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Hi guys, been watching you two guys for some time, decided to join and post.   I am at the same point as miller234 with my ignition mods, have also bought the Progress CDI and now can see that I require the 2 coil stator to make it work, well done!    I have become sucked into the vortex that this 2012 PW80 has created, mods etc.   Will follow with interest,Peter.

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Tell me about it. These silly little machines are just so much fun to mess around with. Because they're engineered like a weed whacker, nearly anything you do makes an improvement you can feel. And since everything is so cheap and readily available, if you do screw up big time, just buy a replacement and start over again.

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Hi,

 

I just got a yamaha PW80 as a muck around while i save up to fix my bike.

was sitting around for a few years so drained everything cleaned everything new airfilter sparkplug etc..

 

went algood for a day or so,

 

went to ride it just now and made it about 50 metres and cut out.

 

it starts but wont hold idle. i.e bop bop bop .. bop ......bop .........

 

Help ???????

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Define "cleaned everything out", please. This means different things to different people.

My guess, float valve took a dump, but that answer could change depending on what you've done recently.

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took the carb apart sprayed brake cleaner and carb cleaner . drained all fluids and replaced with new.

 

it leaks petrol constantly out of the overflow on the bowl. . wont start and if it does it cuts out after 2 rotations of the piston.

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also when it did run for the 1 day, pulled the plug out and was black covered in oil. it is an old bike probably 1992.

 

but the thing is it did run. fine.

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You don't need a carb, you either need to adjust the float height by bending the little "tang" on the float or you need a float valve which is available from Yamaha.

 

I think this is a Maico carb, but it doesn't matter, the brass piece off to the right in the photo is the float "body", we'll call it. In the center of the body is a tab next to the round pivot.

c13.jpg

You bend the tab to change the float height. Away from the body of the carb causes the fuel level to increase and towards the body causes the fuel level to decrease. Aside from keeping the bowl from overflowing, changing the level will make the bike slightly more rich or lean just like changing jets does, but not as drastic.

 

Did you fully disassmble the carb when you sprayed carb cleaner in it? If not, you could also have damaged the rubber O-rings. Take the carb apart, remove the O-rings, inspect them. If there's cracks or tears, go to the plumbing section of your local hardware store and find replacements. Since you live in a metric country, this should be pretty easy. (Assuming that you have plumbing sections and hardware stores or course.)

 

For future reference, use this guide for the proper way to clean almost any carburetor, but specifically, motorcycle carbs: http://articles.superhunky.com/4/21

Edited by Smacaroni

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