What Kind Of Bike Do I Have Here?

[Agitator]

ooh! just thought of something you should keep an eye on..

Is that damage on the lh side case serious? If it is a clean hole into the case, you should make sure it's cleaned and sealed so dirt and shit can't get into the motor and so that oil can't get out. I'm being captain obvious today, eh?

JB weld is okay but I prefer an RTV silicone gasket maker like the permatex and napa brand stuff.

[Reyals Bemus]

Yeah the light works great! Nice and bright!

And yes the left side case was punctured but the previous owner did a good job patching it up. It didn't leak when I was running it.

I did notice that around the exhaust port (where the engine meets the exhaust pipe), there was a good amount of oil after I ran it. I think it's leaking a bit from there. In fact, the exhaust pipe felt a little loose when I pulled on it. How do I tighten that up?

Thanks --Matt

[2 stokes for life]

take off the pipe clean the surfaces and then use some high temp gasket makes or sealer.

[Reyals Bemus]

Okay so today when I got home I reinstalled the carb and tried kicking it. It caught a little quicker, but otherwise it didn't have an effect on the poor engine running. It still dies if I try to rev it the slightest bit.

What's next on the list of things to check?

By the way, choke is down, right?

[Agitator]

two strokes for life can answer the choke thing better than I.

As far as the running, jetting the motor out should help it run well (see sticky at top of the yam. forum).

You should check your reeds and see if they're all right. If you have the carb off, remove bolts holding the "boot" that the carb connects into and the reeds are underneath that boot in a cage. See if the petals are closing all the way. if not, flipping the petals over and reinstalling the screws with blue loctite may solve the problem but you may need to buy new reeds- no biggy. new ones can make a big difference! if you have doubts about condition, take some photos and post 'em.

[mfinDRZ]

Sounds like the ignition is cutting out (kill switch, coil, ground) when the rpm's increase.

How high do the RPM's get prior to cut off? Sounds like you're saying it's pretty immediate.

How does it cut off? Is it like hitting the kill switch? or like running out of gas (slow death)?

You said it has a bright spark when kicking it right? Strange, if spark is weak, it'll cut out when the demand for spark is higher. A bad coil can internally arc as rpms increase and stop firing the plug- short of swapping the coil it's hard to pinpoint that one.

You did clean the air filter right?

Checke Spark Plug gap?

Anyone else??

[Reyals Bemus]

Yeah spark is good (not sure what the gap is supposed to be though...), air filter is clean, and the 6 little reeds looked like they were in good shape. Cause I've never worked on 2-strokes before, at first I didn't know what they were, but did notice that they weren't cracked or sloppy. They do close all the way...

The engine doesn't just die when I try to give it throttle, but it also will just die idling. It does die immediately though.

What is the correct spark plug gap?

Do 2 strokes need to have their timing checked? What about valves?

Really appreciate the info guys, thanks --Matt

[SDet]

What about valves?

Guess you told the truth when you said you realy never had a two stoke before.

(There are no valves)

If the crank seals are messed up it will run weird.

[DRH]

Remove the float bowl and see if the floats are sticking. The floats should move smoothly with no sticking. Floats can stick open or closed each causing its own problem. A float that doesn't open will cause the bike to run out of gas and die. Sound familar? If you are not sure if it is sticking, the next time you get it fired up, tap the bowl LIGHTLY and see if the float drops thus allowing gas to fill the bowl and run a little longer. If still unsure remove and clean the whole assembly. Be careful, alot of small parts that have be installed properly.

[RCannon]

How about a cool bike that should still be produced. can you imagine running this machine against a ttr 225 or 230??? LOL

Thsi bike beats it in every way, shape and form.

[Reyals Bemus]

Wow I feel retarded, but thanks for the support.

Anyways, I totally cleaned out the carb, and the floats moved fine...

[mfinDRZ]

Spark plug gap- .020-.024 although the fact that it dies randomly at idle kind of rules that out.

Try disconnecting your kill switch, you should be able to trace the line to a plug somewhere under the tank. While you're at it look for loose or pinched/cut wires in the harness. Check that the coil is mounted tight as that makes the ground connection I believe.

Pull off the cover and check the CDI stuff, it should be moisture and crud free.

I'm with RCannon on the TTR 225 vs IT200- the only drawback would be when the drum brakes get wet

[bobbyward]

sure wish i had my 84 back, i'm looking for one locally to restore and maybe try racing in vintage races, i raced my 84 to death !

[tgoar]

im not sure if anyone said check the top end. and maybe put a new piston in? and get the cylinder pulled off and all cleaned up, and make sure there is no build up on the ports or anything.

any clogged fuel lines or hoses or anything? maybe something in the exhaust that has been sitting there and just building up?

just some ideas...

[2 stokes for life]

Well with the carb did you blow compressed air through all the passages? Also you need make sure that all the jets are cleard out.

This still sounds like a fuel issue. Is it getting fuel from the tank? Other wise it sounds like the float height is really low and starving the engine. To fix it bend the little tab were it hits the seat valve so it opens sooner to get more fuel.

What color is the exhaust? If it is nything other than blue and more whit or grey then you have crank seal problems.

Thats about all I can think of.

[Reyals Bemus]

Yes I did blow compressed air through every pore, hole and passage of the carb. Bit of crap was blowing out the other end, so I feel like I did do a pretty good job cleaning it up.

It's not really like the ignition is cutting out to cause it to die, it's more like running out of gas suddenly or maybe I don't have the carb adjusted right? I turned that plastic knob out 1 3/4 as suggested and set the other knob accordingly.

All the fuel lines are cleared out. I cleaned the gas tank too and put some 40:1 fuel in.

The exhaust is a light blue tint.

[adam728]

Compressed air will not clean out gummed up carb passages all the time. I've often found the need to use something like a torch tip cleaner, or just pieces of copper wire to ream the junk out. It really does sound like you have a clogged jet or passage still.

[2 stokes for life]

Yes take all the jest out and pull out the needle jet and clean it all really well. Let it soak in carb cleaner and thenblow air and then use a wire to really un-clog it.

[manson3161]

with the tag # you could go to a local shop and find out exactly what it is and pick up a repair manual that would tell you all the specs

[2 stokes for life]

WAIT! I have the book for it. Let go look for it and I will post al the info you need to know.

Alright, it does not list a 200 model of any year. I dont know why but it lists the 175 which should be very close.

So what size is the carb? Or is it a VM34SS or VM36SC?

If it is a 34ss here are the settings

Main jet:360

Needle Jet:P-4

Pilot jet:60

Jet Needle:6F21

clip position:4

fuel mixture screw: from 1 to 1 and one half turns out

and float level:0.93 inch

For the VM36SC

Main jet:360

Needle Jet:P-6

Pilot jet:60

Jet Needle:6F15

clip position:2

fuel mixture screw: from 1 to 1 and one half turns out

and float level:0.71 inch

Now this jetting would be good for 20:1 with leaded fule possibly. So its a starting point but at least the loat height will be fine. It will also be fine up to 5,000 ft.