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Question for you So. Cal. guys

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I've seen that truck before!

BTW, I have a house for sale about 35 minutes north of prescott for dirt cheap compared to california standards with epic riding straight from the house!!!

See-r-eff... Nope, not doing AMRA. I actually moved to vegas about a month ago. I'll be doing a series we run out here.

chicken, i was waiting for you to jump on that!!!

The cage work was kind of done in stages so it's hard to say how long it took. I did this cage in a ranger on weekends and evenings in my spare time in under a month though. You can see the similarities in the cab.

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Jump1.jpg

Here's a couple jeeps I've done also. Both based off the factory roll bars. Both were done on a long sat and a sunday morning basically.

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It's just the apperance..it's a mirror image.

All the real trucks (with true LT w/ bypasses)..the rear will cycle 18-24" on some..while the front only 12-20 depending on kit, setup, etc. That's with the rear still "sagging"

Plus it looks like your going fast :)

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Yeah, I've had a couple camera phone pics this morning already. Looks like you guys got nailed for sure! I miss my house and well... that's about it. LOL

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I've seen that truck before!

BTW, I have a house for sale about 35 minutes north of prescott for dirt cheap compared to california standards with epic riding straight from the house!!!

See-r-eff... Nope, not doing AMRA. I actually moved to vegas about a month ago. I'll be doing a series we run out here.

chicken, i was waiting for you to jump on that!!!

The cage work was kind of done in stages so it's hard to say how long it took. I did this cage in a ranger on weekends and evenings in my spare time in under a month though. You can see the similarities in the cab.

120606002.jpg

120606003.jpg

120606004.jpg

IMG_6367.jpg

IMG_6366.jpg

IMG_6259.jpg

IMG_6370.jpg

IMG_6369.jpg

Cage1.jpg

tireidea1.jpg

bedsides3.jpg

Jump1.jpg

Here's a couple jeeps I've done also. Both based off the factory roll bars. Both were done on a long sat and a sunday morning basically.

DSC00210.jpg

DSC00212.jpg

DSC00206.jpg

DSC00021.jpg

DSC00022.jpg

DSC00025.jpg

DSC00029.jpg

Looks like you are ready for the next nuclear blast with that cab cage :lol:

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Looks like you are ready for the next nuclear blast with that cab cage :lol:

Well, not sure that's what I had in mind...

But I did in general copy the cab cage design used on this truck on both my truck and that ranger above. Watch to the end... That's what happens with the front spindle nut decides to back off and fall off @ about 80mph which essentially means, your front tire falls off at 80mph. He barrel rolls it 8 times we think. Broke a chromoly rear housing in half during the roll to give you an idea of the impact. The doors still opened and closed fine though and they walked away shaken up but not injured at all...

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Just thought it was a little heavy for a pre-runner.

Race truck- definitely.

I was at that race in the vid- as a spectator.

Co-dawged it in 06 in a nice 5 unlim car- very fast course- know it well.

Prolly hit 90-95 in the 5 car- scared the poop out of me. Finished 6th overall.

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Just thought it was a little heavy for a pre-runner.

Race truck- definitely.

.

I'm building it to have fun... And killing myself possibly cause it's underbuilt is not my idea of fun. Honestly, there's no such thing as overbuilt in my opinion!

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Does your cage actually go from the bed into the cab or did you just weld it the body? Also how do you connect the cage to the frame?

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The cage on my toyota and the ranger are both directly to the frame. The cab is actually hung to the cage. In fact on my toyota the original cab mounts are completely removed to the point that I even cut the brackets coming off the side of the frame off. The cab is solely secured by plates welded from the cage to the sheet metal.

Here you can see the bed area of the truck. I actually plated the frame where the cage contacts it knowing that's going to be a high stress area from both the bumpstops being there and the main "rollbar" tube tieing in there. This would basically be the focul point of the rear area.

BTW, nowhere did I claim to be a "pro" fab guy... so comment all you want on the crappy fab work, I don't really care. LOL

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Here you can see pretty clearly where I went thru the cab by the EXCESSIVELY large holes I cut... LOL Also notice where I came thru the floor of the cab at also...

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Passenger side extra cab floor area where I went thru the cab with the cage to hit the frame.

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See where the tube goes down thru the floor?

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This is what it looks like underneath. I litterally went right thru the hole in the body where the cab mount used to be. This is the part of the frame where I cut off the OE cab mount also. You can see the tube coming thru the frame just a little off center. You can also see the block of wood between the frame and cab literally holding the cab up cause there's now cab mounts on the truck at this point.

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I don't have any pics of how the cab is hung to the cage. But put it this way, there's plating connecting all along the A pillar, floor bars, across the top of the door, the whole upper half of the B pillar and along the crossbar under the rear window to the cab now.

These were just pieces I thru in to check fitment but you can see where I went thru the firewall to attach from the engine compartment to the engine cage area.

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Those holes allowed me to do this...

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Those aren't completed photos though, there's actually more tubing in the engine compartment now then shown there. For those that want to know travel numbers. I honestly don't know, I never measured cause I kinda didn't care. But for reference that bumpstop shaft is 4" long. You can guess from there probably how much it's moving out at the tire.

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I got a question....how bad is it going to suck if you have to pull the radiator or engine?

That's hopefully happening sooner then later cause I really want to swap in the 3.4L!!! As it sits right now I'm going to have to cut out one tube that's VERY accessable & not seen in those pictures and it'll come out. That tube will probably take about 15-20 minutes at the most to put back in which is why I'm not concerned. The tranny will not come out with the motor. I'll have to drop the tranny out the bottom which is easy. Just did it 2 weeks ago on my roomies race truck.

Also, I may honestly even just cut out the stock core support at that point and redo it with a tubular support to hang the radiator off. The radiator drops in and out easy, there's more then enough room, already did it after it started leaking while sitting for almost a month. Stupid radiator!

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Wow thats some extensive work man, amazing job. When I start gaining enough funds to start my project im going to do a 5.4 swap into a Project truck and work my way from there. Im thinking I could do a bed cage no problem but Id have trouble with the whole cab and engine caging. Could I bring it your way and learn/buy one?

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I definately would be willing to do work for people once I get my own place again. I currently have the house/garage all that work was done in on the market out in Az. I'm renting a room till it sells, then I'll be buying and back in business so to speak again!!!

On a side note, my roomie barrel rolled his racing at primm today, landed on it's wheels and kept going. Lucky enough, we had my in car camera on it and got some killer video out of it!!! I'll post it sometime once we get it edited and uploaded...

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Video from my roomie's truck in yesterday's race. LOL... why again did I build a cage? They kept going, passed the truck back up and actually finished the race. I'm heading out to watch them race again today in a bit.

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I'm in the heart of SoCal and I see that look all the time. Its extremely poplular here mostly with kids. Its called a Baja Lift. Its for jumping out in the desert. The majority of the suspension mod is long-travel shocks on the front of the truck to take the impact. All the weight is in the front end where the engine is. The back is usually lightened and needs little suspension work. The sad thing is its ugly as sin and most people never jump them anyway...

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The higher front end on prerunners tends to come from the rear end actually being tucked into the fenders. At the same time the rear end is already squatting into some of it's travel.

If the truck is moving under power, the rear-end will squat as well.

The front end looks higher but often doesn't have more suspesion and the fenders are cut high and opened up to allow the tires to compress into the wells.

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The majority of the suspension mod is long-travel shocks on the front of the truck to take the impact. All the weight is in the front end where the engine is. The back is usually lightened and needs little suspension work.

The rear usually has more travel than the front.

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