Castrol GTX

[Alex 400]

I put valvoline 20w-50 motorcycle oil in the old pig and so far it is doing really well. the motor seems more stable for longer periods of time than with the mobil 1 MC oil. i flog it pretty hard.

[Alex 400]

Actually, Rotella/Delo400, etc., is for many uses; cars, trucks, diesels, generators, lawn equipment, compressors...and, motorcycles.

Shell ROTELLA® T Multigrade

ROTELA Multigrade BottleShell ROTELLA® T SAE 15W-40 with Advanced Soot Control is tested over millions of miles in the most extreme real-world conditions. It is a premium quality, heavy-duty multigrade oil for all-season use in diesel-powered or gasoline-powered equipment.

It meets or exceeds the warranty and service requirements of virtually all diesel and many gasoline engine manufacturers—for both newer and older engines. It is recommended especially for on-highway service applications and is also recommended for off-highway applications, especially where all-season use is desired.

Over the past 30 years, Shell ROTELLA® T has retained its position as one of the best-selling heavyduty multigrade oils in the U.S. The tightening of federal emission requirements has resulted in engine designs that require enhanced oil performance.

Meets The Specs

Shell ROTELLA® T SAE 15W- 40 is a leader in meeting leading OEM specifications, as well as the enhanced oil performance requirements for API CI - 4 PLUS, Caterpillar ECF-1, Mercedes- Benz 228.3, Cummins CES 20078, Detroit Diesel 93K214, Mack EO-N Premium Plus 03, Mercedes-Benz 228.3, and Volvo VDS-3, and meets the warranty requirement of all major diesel engine manufacturers.

Also formulated with Advanced Soot Control chemistry, Shell ROTELLA® T SAE 15W-40 delivers exceptional heavy-duty and soot control protection, plus outstanding cold-weather performance.

Applications

* Heavy-duty diesel and mixed fleets in all types of< over-the-road service, including engines with EGR

* Recommended for diesel-powered equipment, including those powered by Caterpillar, Cummins, Detroit Diesel, Mack, Mercedes-Benz, International and Volvo engines in all types of service

* Off-highway applications where an all-season, universal engine oil is desired, such as construction, mining, logging and agriculturual service for manufacturers, including John Deere, Case IH, Komatsu and Agco for manufacturers Heavy-duty transmission applications requiring Allison C-4

* Many gasoline engines, especially the hard-working engines of pickup trucks, sport-utility vehicles (SUVs), minivans and ¡¡¡¡¡¡motorcycles!!!!

* Passenger cars, light trucks, farm equipment, forklifts and assorted stationary equipment with automotive type LPG- or LNG-fueled engines where ashless or low-ash oils are not specified by the manufacturer

* Detroit Diesel Series 53, 71 and 92 engines operating in ambient temperatures below 0°F use Shell ROTELLA® T SAE 15W-40

Note: Shell ROTELLA® T SAE 40 single grade oil is the preferred choice for most Detroit Diesel 2-stroke cycle engines.

Advanced Soot Control

Because of stricter emission requirements and changes in engine design, more soot goes into the oil in today’s high-technology diesel engines. Shell ROTELLA® T Multigrade with Advanced Soot Control provides outstanding protection against engine wear deposits and viscosity thickening due to soot.

Shell ROTELLA® T Multigrade Offers:

* Excellent viscosity control and shear stability

* Outstanding engine cleanliness

* Performance meets all requirements of today’s high-performance, fuel-efficient, low-emission diesel engines operating in severe conditions

* Excellent low-temperature flow properties to help speed cold starts

* Enhanced high temperature oxidation stability

* Exceptional deposit control

* Exceptional control of valve train wear

* Excellent engine protection and durability

* Outstanding ability to handle soot

* Extended oil drain capability

key being that right there! MOTORCYCLES!

[nimbly]

Stuff doesn't meet jaso standards for motorcycles. Use whatever you want. Not using jaso standard oils may void your warranty.

[nimbly]

Do you use wd-40 for your chain too?

[-=Jughead=-]

Stuff doesn't meet jaso standards for motorcycles. Use whatever you want. Not using jaso standard oils may void your warranty.

Science > Hearsay.

JASO is not a requirement for adherence to maintaining a warranty on any of my bikes, nor is it a specification that is required for longevity, performance, or durability.

The JASO specification listed in my manufacturer's manual lists a JASO standard, T 903, as an oil designation that meets their recommended specifications. It is not an absolute; the SAE standard is also a recommendation, and meets/exceeds all warranty-retaining requirements.

One example, my '07 450X, the manual stipulates: "SG or higher, except oils labeled as Energy Conserving on the circular API Service Label."

Rotella T 15w-40 meets (exceeds, actually) these specifications that are direct from the manufacturer. It is currently spec'd as 'SM', which supersedes the 'SG' specification: API ratings are backward compatible to previous generation ratings. This means that an API SM quality oil, which is the latest API rating, is recommended where API SL, SJ, SH, SG were originally required.

Rotella T does the job, meets/exceeds the requirements, is inexpensive (especially when compared to over-marketed 'designer' oils) is ubiquitous, and works like a charm. ?

[-=Jughead=-]

Do you use wd-40 for your chain too?

Sure. It's a great water-displacer. Works great after washing a bike. Once dry, hit it wih a good chain lube; I currently use PJ1 and/or Maxima Chan Wax, or the stuff in my buddies' kits.

Lots folks will go on about how bad it is, for O-Rings, etc., but I believe in fact vs rumor.

Here's one test that negates any ill-effects of its use on MC O-Ring chains:http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345397

[Alex 400]

Stuff doesn't meet jaso standards for motorcycles. Use whatever you want. Not using jaso standard oils may void your warranty.

the warrantee on xr's was about 90 days wasn't it? i don't have to worry about that. my dad never ran motorcycle oil in his xt500 and he never cracked the cases. ever. beat the crap out of it. it just kept going and going. always 20w-50 in it and it just kept going. didn't really start to burn any oil until the last years of it's life. we kept the motor as the frame was shot. going to rebuild it and put it in a dune buggy or something.

[Alex 400]

Sure. It's a great water-displacer. Works great after washing a bike. Once dry, hit it wih a good chain lube; I currently use PJ1 and/or Maxima Chan Wax, or the stuff in my buddies' kits.

Lots folks will go on about how bad it is, for O-Rings, etc., but I believe in fact vs rumor.

Here's one test that negates any ill-effects of its use on MC O-Ring chains:http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345397

nice! We use Bel-Ray chain lube and it works really well. nice and tacky so it stays on the chain.

[Purcell69]

For what it is worth, motor oil manufactuers have changed their formulation in recent years and is most noticable in engines with mechanical cam systems vs. roller type cams. The new fomulations are lower or have no zinc, which causes mechanical cams to wear out prematurely. The Rotella brand oil is one of the few traditional motor oils that has retained it's zinc content.

Back in the '80's I ran nothing but Castrol GTX in my cycles. Now I'll stick with the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 for my motorcycle.

-Joe

[Alex 400]

For what it is worth, motor oil manufactuers have changed their formulation in recent years and is most noticable in engines with mechanical cam systems vs. roller type cams. The new fomulations are lower or have no zinc, which causes mechanical cams to wear out prematurely. The Rotella brand oil is one of the few traditional motor oils that has retained it's zinc content.

Back in the '80's I ran nothing but Castrol GTX in my cycles. Now I'll stick with the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 for my motorcycle.

-Joe

i have also noticed this. The only delo you can buy at an auto parts store is low emission. My dad's work still sells the delo 400 he bought up 4 or 5 gallons of the non emission straight 30w and 15w-40 weight. we used to use that in our bikes. Well my dad still does, i am actually using motorcycle oil on this last change. Valvoline 20w-50 MC oil. Works good. no big difference from when i was using the Mobil 1 MC oil. and it's not that expensive.

[nimbly]

I knew a guy that got screwed out of warranty work on a Civic because he used Royal Purple that supposedly wasn't api rated.

[nimbly]

Tests are bias as rumors are. WD has a tendency to gel up.

[Alex 400]

I knew a guy that got screwed out of warranty work on a Civic because he used Royal Purple that supposedly wasn't api rated.

that's true, most automotive sythetics minus royal purple and amzoil are certified to be used in automobiles and won't void warranty. it just has to meet or surpass the specified rating. most synthetics do. diesel mechanics used to say dello 400 was the closest to thing to running synthetic without it being synthetic in terms or protection, wear and longevity. Dello 400 was designed around diesel engines using very long oil change intervals. (15-30 thousand miles). we change our oil because it gets dirty from open crankcase vents and hard flogging of the bike. do you think a diesel is any cleaner than our dirt bikes. probably not. I have done a couple oil changes on diesels, you pour out the oil, black. Pour in new, clean gold oil. when you check the level it is already greyish black. the oil can deal with the contaminants and not break down. it would seem a diesel oil would be a could candidate for off road vehicle that encounters heat, high load, and a very dirty environment. That is why we used it in all of our vehicles for a long time. we don't use it in our cars, (dad has switched to high milage synthetic) but we use it all of our air cooled equipment. straight 30wt dello goes in dirt bikes (well, 15w-40) , lawn tractor, rototillers, lawn mower, and my go cart. every thing runs fantastic. the lawn tractor is over 30 years old and still has original motor. we have adjusted the valves and changed the points but that's it. have run nothing but dello 400 30wt in it for the last 13 years.

that is all the non-emission stuff, i am sure the new stuff works fine. they still have to keep up with lubricity standards.

[-=Jughead=-]

Just have to wonder why an oil as expensive as RP can't cough up the skins to get certified like any other respectable product.

+2 on the Delo and 'diesel' oil. Nothing like a solid, heavy-duty, BS-free, inexpensive, easily available do-all oil.

If Chevron and Shell were into it, they'd run a commercial with dancing, animated graphics, and suddenly, their tried-and-true Delo/Rotella would be the shiznit. Kinda glad they don't, as it keeps the cost at a realistic level.

ETA: Just gotta laugh...which ad banner popped up for this thread? RP! ??

[partyman66]

I've been using Amsoil 4-stroke motorcycle oil in my bike the past 2 oil changes after having used Honda HP4 during all of the prior oil changes throughout the duration of the ownership of my '03 XR250.

Things I immediately noticed after switching from the Honda HP4 to the Amsoil are as follows:

1) The shifting doesn't make as much of a pronounced clicking noise as it used to with the Honda HP4 oil during upshifts. A few times when I was riding, I thought I didn't click up on the shifter far enough because I didn't really feel or hear a click... but when I let the clutch out, it was indeed in the next gear.

2) I can get into first gear much easier now... at times, first gear would sometimes fight me when I tried to put it in going from neutral at a standstill with the Honda HP4 dino oil and I would sorta have to half clutch it to get it into first.

3) After putting the Amsoil in and warming the bike up, it idled too high. I had to lower the idle quite a bit to get it back to a good idling point... and I'd never touched the idle on my bike prior to this during my entire ownership experience of the bike. I guess this would be proof that the oil is more efficient than the HP4 dino oil... since it's never idled too high before with the HP4 Honda oil in it.

I didn't notice any difference in power while riding... but to expect to feel a power difference from running synthetic oil would be pretty foolish and unrealistic to begin with.

I don't have any means of measuring oil temperature, so I can't comment on that... but I do plan to buy one of those XR's Only Dipstick thermostats this week... but I won't have a baseline to compare it against since I have no plans to ever use anything in the bike aside from Amsoil from now on.

The bike never burned any oil with the Honda HP4 oil, and it doesn't burn any Amsoil... and it seems to generally run great. I've put about 420 miles on the Amsoil that I currently have in the bike and it hasn't burned any of it off... the dipstick is still indicating that its full right up to the fill line. I am doing an oil change this weekend though with some more Amsoil, probably a heavier weight since it's now starting to get pretty hot out.

[nimbly]

http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/video_player.shtml?vid=221491

[DGXR]

There are a lot of studies and articles out there that say the higher cost of MC oil vs auto oil is a result of some very good advertising, that there is no difference between oils. There are also a lot of studies that show a big difference between mc vs auto oils, with friction modifiers causing clutch slippage, that mc's run higher temps and the tranny gears put too much strain on auto oils, etc. I have always run Valvoline 10W-40 ATV oil in all my bikes. It is dino oil (not synthetic) and therefore not the best dirt bike oil in the world, but it is relatively inexpensive and supposedly "specialized" for off-road bikes, and Valvoline products are known to be of high quality. Granted my bikes are not high-strung race bikes, but I ride hard and I ride often, I change the oil regularly and have never had any problems.

[-=Jughead=-]

I change the oil regularly and have never had any problems.

Bingo.

Besides, our engines have been designed to run on commonly available, commonly priced, averagely formulated oils.

Designer oils are a marketing angle, whether truthfully beneficial, or not, since they exceed the requirements.

What kills me is the over-specialization I see. For example oils for twins exclusively, or for thumpers exclusively.

What about an oil for an in-line four?

What about an oil for a V4?

What about an oil for an in-line six?

What about an oil for a turbo?

What about an oil for aircooled?

What about an oil for a liquid-cooled?

What about an oil for a dry-sump thumper?

What about an oil for a wet-sump thumper?

What about an oil for a dry-sump thumper that is trail-ridden, but not raced?

What about an oil for a dry-sump thumper that is trail-ridden, but not raced, but ridden in soft terrain? Hard-terrian?

What about an oil for a dry-sump thumper that is trail-ridden, but not raced, but ridden in soft terrain above 80º, but below 92º? This may sound like an exaggeration, which it is, but if it hits the shelves---there'll be the die-hard followers who swear by the elixirs, and that anything else will destroy an engine in short-order... ?

What if my bike is orange? Do I need to shell out for the $27.99/qt stuff?

While some of the claims may have merit, do they translate to the real world? Even if they do, you cannot deny the % of "cereal filler" in them.?

Mr. Jagger nailed it back in 1965.

[Tomttt]

Guys I sold Castrol product for 16 years and I will tell you automotive oils are not the best for MCs. The clutch is an issue, especially in the larger bikes. That is not to say that you can't get good service life using automotive oils,(if you don't have clutch issues) GTX or others.

I currently use Maxima 4 Extra synthetic in my CRF250R, 10w40, and 15w50 in my 93 XR 250. Maxima is one of the few synthetics that is still ester based, and ester base stock is superior to others.

As the Maxima website states their products may be over kill, but in the hot climate I live in, it is worth the effort and few dollars more.

I still have some of the older Castrol R4 Super bike oil in 5w40 that I run in my son's 250X, until it is gone then 10w40 maxima.

Oil is cheap compared to engine work.??

[Alex 400]

Guys I sold Castrol product for 16 years and I will tell you automotive oils are not the best for MCs. The clutch is an issue, especially in the larger bikes. That is not to say that you can't get good service life using automotive oils,(if you don't have clutch issues) GTX or others.

I currently use Maxima 4 Extra synthetic in my CRF250R, 10w40, and 15w50 in my 93 XR 250. Maxima is one of the few synthetics that is still ester based, and ester base stock is superior to others.

As the Maxima website states their products may be over kill, but in the hot climate I live in, it is worth the effort and few dollars more.

I still have some of the older Castrol R4 Super bike oil in 5w40 that I run in my son's 250X, until it is gone then 10w40 maxima.

Oil is cheap compared to engine work.??

ok, if the m/c oil is the way to keep motorcycle maintenance at a minimum, how can you explain the experience of regular oil users? My dad's 79 xt 500 ran castrol gtx, penzoil, and then dello towards the end of it's life for 25 years. no engine work. none. never had to crack a gasket on the damn thing except to change the points. clutch was good, engine was strong, had enough compression to break your leg. he changed the oil regularly, but rode the holy livin' crap out of it for years, and it worked great.

Now, that being said i use M/C oil now as the low emission automotive oils no longer have the stuff that they used to in them. I would still use then in a pinch, but m/c oil for now.