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DRZ weight loss

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Does anybody have any weight saving tips to trim the fat off of a DRZ 400s. So far I removed reflectors, anti-freeze overflow and hoses, helmet lock, radiator fan and tool bag for a savings of around 8 pounds. Theres a black box with hoses I believe is an emissions thingy ,Has anybody removed that ? Can I just unplug and do away with the kickstand switch ???

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DONT take the black box off, you need it. Dump the starter and get a kickstart kit, that really saves weight, also if you are really serious get rid of the battery.

Get a plastic headlight, dump the rear footpegs, Yes get rid of kickstand switch not that it will save much weight.

There's threads on all of these topics. just search away!

Oh and I'd put the overflow back on! esp as you've taken off the fan.

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DONT take the black box off, you need it.

Yep, it is a good thing that weighs very little.

Dump the starter and get a kickstart kit, that really saves weight, also if you are really serious get rid of the battery.

Way more work than it sounds to truly save weight. Very expensive too, better to just sell your bike and buy a drz k. The crank half will need to be replaced just to start with. Otherwise you are only going to lose the battery weight. The real advantage to the kicker is less rotational mass due to a lighter crank set up.

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I have a california model, and it had a black canister with hoses going to it from the carb and the bottom of the tank. I got a new tank, and so it was pointless anyways.

Is the black box something different?

Get lighter mirrors, lighter handle bars, I also chopped my handlebars about an inch and a half, too wide anyways. The stock exhaust is heavy. The bar ends are really heavy.

I wouldn't take the fan and the overflow out for good. Maybe if you are racing it or something.

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I have a california model, and it had a black canister with hoses going to it from the carb and the bottom of the tank. I got a new tank, and so it was pointless anyways.

Is the black box something different?

Get lighter mirrors, lighter handle bars. The stock exhaust is heavy. The bar ends are really heavy.

I wouldn't take the fan and the overflow out for good. Maybe if you are racing it or something.

The one I'm referring to is connected to the cylinder head cover and cylinder. It returns vented oil back into the system. Take it off and guess where the vented oil goes to???

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Yep, it is a good thing that weighs very little.

Way more work than it sounds to truly save weight. Very expensive too, better to just sell your bike and buy a drz k. The crank half will need to be replaced just to start with. Otherwise you are only going to lose the battery weight. The real advantage to the kicker is less rotational mass due to a lighter crank set up.

Eh? its not expensive, you remove the starter motor - cheap. Make up a blanking plate - cheap and buy a kick start kit, no idea how much in USA but not much here. You don't have to worry about the crank!!!! Its then up to you if you want to remove the battery, but you will have to replace it with a large capacitor. Again there are threads on it if you dont believe me.

Yes the kicker has lighter flywheel, but it doesnt fit the S or E although you can buy a lighter one for them (trailteck?)if you want to. The rotational mass issue is about motor reponse/behaviour not the dead weight of the bike.

Yes and I am referring to the oil vapour collector box too,

Dan

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How much weight do you think you save by pulling the starter and then adding a blocking plate and a kick start kit? If you go that far then pulling the battery should be done and replaced by a capacitor or a smaller 12v battery.

Yes the kicker has lighter flywheel, but it doesnt fit the S or E although you can buy a lighter one for them (trailteck?)if you want to. The rotational mass issue is about motor reponse/behaviour not the dead weight of the bike.

So the lighter flywheel doesn't remove weight from the bike? Yes it is definitely more noticeable with the quicker engine response but this guy is talking about taking off plastic containers that weigh next to nothing and electrical switches which are the same.

You can also save a few pounds by taking out the starter clutch and gears.

Then once you have done all that you will have a four stroke kick start only bike with no manual decompression. If you stick with an autodecomp exhaust cam it will be better for sure but it still could be a real bugger at times.

Not sure I'd recommend taking off the fan, but to each his own.

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How much weight do you think you save by pulling the starter and then adding a blocking plate and a kick start kit?

removing the battery, starter, and starter clutch/gears, and adding the k-start kit = net weight loss of about 10 lbs

and you don't necessarily need manual decomp to kickstart a drz, even if you don't have the auto decomp cam (assuming you have a somewhat normal comp. ratio).

I start my 'K' model all the time without using the decomp. might be a b*tch if it was flooded, but it's not impossible.

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so far i removed:

charcoal canister

rubber things on pegs

reflectors on front fender

tool box

HUGE tail light (got edge)

bar ends (removed for hand guards)

not sure how much weight i lost but she sure looks thinner! :lol:

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The DRZ S is a great compromise enduro in that it's decent on the road and even acceptable on the highway BECAUSE of it's weight. The little savings (other than plastic gas tank) you can gain by stripping out parts is not worth it in my opinion.

The only way you'll get a light responsive dirt bike is as was suggested to buy a yz or ktm which won't be good on the road. There have been forum members here that have opted for that option and traded their bike in. Personally, and I've gone through this tug-of-war myself, I like the compromise of being able to ride comfortably to trails. It's amazing what that pig can do with it's extra weight actually if riding skills are honed.

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removing the battery, starter, and starter clutch/gears, and adding the k-start kit = net weight loss of about 10 lbs

and you don't necessarily need manual decomp to kickstart a drz, even if you don't have the auto decomp cam (assuming you have a somewhat normal comp. ratio).

I start my 'K' model all the time without using the decomp. might be a b*tch if it was flooded, but it's not impossible.

10 pounds sounds about right. If you have the stock cams then you have an auto decomp on the exhaust. I believe that the new hot cams also have an auto decomp as well IIRC.

And as long as you haven't dumped it on a slick up hill or in some other very awkward position, and as you've said, haven't flooded it then it is not that bad I guess.

I don't have personal experience with it since I'm running high compression, hot cams exhaust with no decomp (luckily I have the manual, I even use it sometimes in conjunction with the starter), and it can be a bitch to kick without any decomp. Stock S compression shouldn't be that bad though.

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My favorite past time is lightening my DRZ. Usually the mods cost next to nothing and are very satisfying. Just when I think there is nothing more I can lighten I hear of or find something else. One time a TTer joking with me :banghead: said to use nylon bolts on my licence plate. I thought :worthy: not a bad idea. So I mounted my plate with nylon bolts and 2 dabs of RTV. It is so solid I may even remove the nylon bolts to save weight :lol:

You can check my garage to see pictures of things Ive lightened. My DRZ weighs 295 pounds with fluids

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removing the battery, starter, and starter clutch/gears, and adding the k-start kit = net weight loss of about 10 lbs

and you don't necessarily need manual decomp to kickstart a drz, even if you don't have the auto decomp cam (assuming you have a somewhat normal comp. ratio).

I start my 'K' model all the time without using the decomp. might be a b*tch if it was flooded, but it's not impossible.

My point exactly, I have a kicker and never use the decomp and it is the easiest bike to kickstart that I have ever owned. 10Guy, the poster asked a question so I answered, whether he choses to go that route is up to him. But you can lose probably the most weight possible by doing what I suggested, and its not my idea there are many threads on the subject.

Dan

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why not stick an aftermarket pipe on it. that would be around 10lbs savings also

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why not stick an aftermarket pipe on it. that would be around 10lbs savings also
10 lbs. is being way too generous.

maybe 5 lbs. with Titanuim.

Chop the stock pipe, you can save more than 10:lol:

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