Can somebody please help me clear up few things.I picked up my new WR450 on 2/3/03 & it wont stop F###ing snowing around here :D :D, so I plan on disassembling the swing arm,suspension linkage,rear shock & head set to regrease the bearings.I want to make sure I use the correct stuff so can anybody simplify these with laymans terms :D

1)Molybdenum disulfide oil

2)Lightweight lithium-soap base grease

3)Molybdenum disulfide grease

ps,should or should not remove Polylube (stringcheese) before greasing? Any input is very much appreciated.

00DRZ400E sold 2/2/03

03WR450FR picked up 2/3/03 Can't ride, wont stop snowing. :):D :D :D

Go to your auto parts store and read the labels on the cans of grease. The label should give the specs and base of the grease which is what you are looking for. 2 and 3 I found but 1 will take some more effort as I didn't see anything listed on oils.

By the way 2) was general purpose lithium grease and 3) I got synthetic caliper grease, it was listed as molybdenum disulfide graphite.

You'll likely not fine molybdenum grease at an auto parts store. They all have some sort of "Moly" blend, but not the real deal. Also, it is not a synthetic, but made from some sort of metallic crystals (do a search on molybdenum and you will find all sorts of info). Perhaps the mediun it is suspended in is synthetic, don't know for sure.

I went to 3 Yamaha dealers to get some and they all acted like I was crazy. Even the mechanics said they never used it. Kind of wierd since the WR manual calls it out, and also molybdenum based oil.

The local Suzuki dealer mechanic had a tube of Suzuki branded molybdenum disulfate in his toolbox. He squeezed out enough for me to re-lube the Yamaha and ordered me up a tube.

I personally like useing what the manufacturer calls out. If I could remove the bearings and clean out all the old grease, I wouldn't have a problem switching, but I'll never take a chance on mixing different types. Besides, this grease is high tech, high temp, and stays where you put it.

So if you want molybdenum, go to Suzuki. Let's see, blue + yellow = purple? Or is that brown?


If the Dealers don't know what it is & nobody knows exactly where tp get it, then what is everybody useing on bearings,wheel axles, & seal lips? I have a tub of Bel-Ray waterproof grease that I used on my 00 DRZ400 but this is my first brand spanking new bike & I want to always try to keep it in tip-top shape. At least try to anyways.The manual says to use Lithium grease on wheel axles.Thats the fist time I've heard that. I've always used the Bel-Ray.

I think it's like motor oil. The brand and type(synthetic or non) are not that important. Frequent oil changes (every couple hundred miles) and linkage maintenance ( at least once a year) will make it last. Use the BelRay, it's fine. :)

Thanx for the input Adamwager,I will.But when I do the suspension linkage & swing arm, should I clean out the Polylube (string cheese)Or grease over it? :D

03 WR450 2/3/03- 1st one #0641.All stock for now.have carbon fiber front disk cover,rear shark fin & caliper guard on order.also alum. works connection frame guards. :)

Get rid of the cheese. It's just an assembly aid and grease is a much better lubricant...

i'm going to miss those grease zerks on the XR.

that bike made me lazy. :)

The manual states that the Polylube is permanent lubrication. I left mine in there and added some Moly grease to the mix.

Also, it may sound weird, but I bought Walmart branded Lithium soap base grease in a cartridge tube and it has been working out really nicely for a few years. The grease is light brown / clear so it almost matches the stuff that comes in the bike (if you can see the microscopic amount of grease that they put in the steering head).

How hard would it be to install zerks in the linkage? once you have it a part anyway it shouldn't be to bad, I'am thinking about it while the weathers bad. I've done it before, drill the hole, thread it, screw in zerk. it that cool or what.


The problem isn't that the grease goes away, it's that the grease gets contaminated with dirt and water. Just shoving more grease in won't really do much and it might damage the seals from the pressure on the inside.

Lithium water-proof grease on all the seals and a light touch with the pressure washer and the grease should be good for close to a season. I ride HS and XC up here. Typically there are 3 water crossings (usually over the pegs) per lap with about 5 laps on each HS. That is a lot of water, mud, crud and my bearings still look pretty clean and greased at the end of the year.

I leave the Polylube in the swingarm and I do mine once per year whether they need it or not. :)

Yamaharichy, I just bought Valvoline multi-purpose grease.It says its a NLGI #2 grade Lithium complex EP grease.Can that be used on seal lips & BEL-RAY on Bearings?It does not say soap based.

Grease is usually composed of oil and then they add a thickener to keep it in place.

Many time's it is just soap.

The bearings in the suspension and steering don't ever make full rotations but work back and forth on one side. This action displaces the lube wear you need it most.


My zuk has grease zerks but the only way to get the grease in, is to loosen the nuts on the side and have someone move the suspension while you add the grease.

I don't know why the factory is so stingy with the grease but it isn't a bad idea to remove all the linkage and joints ounce a year and add a dab with you finger.

That marine type wheel bearing grease is great for wheel bearings to.

Just my 2 cents


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