696, I know you said that the carb was empty but have you checked your pilot jet? That teeny little sucker doesn't take much to clog if you don't treat it right. After many, many years on dirt bikes I have come to the following conclusions for my bikes (you all can do as you wish): I always leave the carb wet (fuel on) in my experience you have less trouble with varnsihed jets and dried-out seals (some race fuels excluded, but who really wastes this pricey stuff). Once you wet a carb keep it wet.; I don't like old gas, if for some reason I think it will be a month or more (sometimes in winter) before I can ride it to use up all of the old gas I always use a high quality fuel stabilizer (run it enough to work it through the carb); While riding, if you've got a "reserve" tank, turn it to reserve (if there is any old fuel in it) to suck from the bottom of the tank for at least a good period of time as this is where the varnish likes to settle. I never do this in the garage or just puttering around, do it while you're really working the bike so that it burns out cleanly. Simply hoping it sloshes around enough to dilute it and clean it out is not enough; Lastly, if your bike isn't starting up easily shoot the airbox with some ether (starting fluid--be careful on 2-strokes). Don't waste your energy on it like you are. If it starts and runs well with an ether jump-start then fine, maybe it just had cobwebs. If it still doesn't start or it starts but doesn't keep running or runs crappy it can often times give you a little more direction in your diagnostics than the shotgun approach. I still lean towards your jets. Like I said I've been doing this for about 20 years and have had very few problems. Good luck, Doug BTW, for initial cold starts I use the temperature method: if it's warm outside--1 blip, if it's cool outside--2 blips, if it's cold outside--3 blips. All with the choke pulled. Once warm just kick it with the HS. For what it's worth.