stripped out phillips head

anyone have a special technique on getting out phillips head bolts that are completely stripped out, im a little nervous about driling it since its the bolts on top of the front master cylinder and would hate to damage that, i tried hammer and chisel method but got no where, anyone have a idea. thanks

that's a recessed flat screw isn't it. what a pain! do you have access to a Dremel type tool? you could use a small grinding disc to cut a groove in the screw head. if you have an old screwdriver you could grind that to fit the shape of the groove. grind the groove so that it has real sharp egdes and fits perfectly. A dime and some pliers might also work if you grind the groove to fit. You might have to replace the master cylinder cover.

If that didn't work I would look into an "Easy-out" screw extractor kit. Not sure if they go that small. It involves some drilling but you can do it.

Mat,don`t panic i had the same prob with my road bike,just drill the head off the screw,first take the good screw out off the cap and get a drill size that matches the taper in the cover,then drill the head off the bad one,once the cap is off there will be enough bolt sticking up to get a hold of it with a vice grip pliers or just standard pliers so you can then unscrew it (once you have the cap off there is no strain on the bolt so it will come out)when you put in the new bolts don`t put them in too tight.When i did mine i could only find bolts with an allen head fitting,but this don`t matter as long as the thread is the same,and it has the same taper to fit the seat in the cap,just take the cap and the good bolt with you when you go to get new bolts so you can match it all up,i hope this helps you out! NOTE: when drilling the cap drill down a little at a time as you may not have a drill that is a perfect match for the taper in the cap,put the drill in the side of the cap that the good bolt came out of and check to see how the taper on the point off the drill matches the taper in the cap,when you are happy that the two are as good a match as you can get,drill out the head a little at a time and you will be able too see when the head is almost through,be gentle with the drill and it will work.

those sound good, ill give them a shot, thanks for the quick response guys

Try a prick punch instead of a chisle 1st! Good sharp little puch ALWAYS works!

For future reference dip the tip of the screwdriver in valve grinding compound. This does wonders for not letting the screw strip out in the first place. Another great tool is an impact driver, its a hand held tool with an assortment of screw and socket bits that you hit with a hammer to shock the fastener loose.

Damn good idea!

I'll have to remember that trick for when I goof like that!


do you have access to a Dremel type tool? you could use a small grinding disc to cut a groove in the screw head. if you have an old screwdriver you could grind that to fit the shape of the groove. grind the groove so that it has real sharp egdes and fits perfectly.

PDX, I do this all the time... Works great..

I've noticed that the front brake resivoir bolts are really soft, not just this bike but a lot of bikes that I've owned.

good luck, Dan

Get an impact driver. These things are so handy and you can find them for less than $20. The impact driver has saved me untold frustration. For me, it's one of those things that I don't know how I did without it for so long!

the lapping compound trick works for allen heads too.

gotta catch them before they go though.

one of the first things I learned as a tech was always use a good screw driver on mc cover bolts.

The taper on the countersink provides additional purchase to the tightening of said fastener and if any corrosion occurs the fastener can prove difficult to remove.

I have drilled out many with the afore mentioned process.

Left handed drills can work their wonders in this situation too.

Get a set of left handed drill bits. Nothing compares to them when getting screws or bolts out. A must have....IMO. I would not attempt it any other way.

As you begin to drill....the screw will probably back right out. They are great!!


Once you have it out replace it with Cap screws(Allen Key)

This is one of the first things I do when I get a new bike I change to cap screw on brake master cylinder, radiator shrouds and any other Phillips screws that get removed often

Woodsy2,What is a prick punch?As for the smokey CDI box,It could be that the CDI cover gasket is cracked or torn and is unable to keep the smoke in. :D Just kiddin,but am interested in what cooked it.

03 WR450F-Picked up 2/3/03,still not rode yet.It's been snowing & snowing & snowing with snow in the forecast fo Mon.,Tues., Fri. It just won't stop! :D:):D

Valve grinding compound- Thanks Chris, it will come in handy when doing carb work with all those cheap phillips screws.

Oops, SFO has the right terminology, valve lapping compound. Can't have ya going to the parts store sounding ignorant :) Clover is the highly recommended brand.

Hey Foursmoke: It is a small center punch with a real sharp point - quick smack from a hammer on the surface of the screw head withthe punch pointing in the "off" direction works wonders.

The prick punch may have got its name from my highschool shop days. I was trying to remove a small dashboard screw from a 58 MG using the method I am describing. One of my buddies came by and said "what a prick" and that started it. I assume he was talking about the punch......

Dont know about the CDI box - it just started smoking. The Honda shop wants $20 for another can of smoke - any idea where I can get it cheaper?


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