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Can i fit a headlight to 08 505XC-F?

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Is it costly or complicated? would like to register the bike.

:lol:

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Simple to do, you just need more stator power.

The stock stator is rated at 42W. Remembering that you ignition pulls power from the battery and not the stator (and you have no kickstarter) a fully charged battery is absolutely necessary for proper operation. If you kill the battery, you will not even be able to push start the bike as you have to have juice in the battery to fire the ignition.

There are many threads on here about the lighting for this as Loopsrider, myself, and others are running lights of some kind. If you do a search you will find all you need to know. But in a nutshell, you will need either A.) a larger flywheel, B.) a larger stator, or C.) a combination of the two. All of this is available from Trail Tech (here in the States). The power that they advertise for their products is the power produced over the stock 42W capability so that you still have that power as a safety factor to keep the bike running. To wire in a light, there is no plug in the harness as on a XCW-R, or other KTM. You have to wire the light directly from a hot source. Many just run a wire from the + battery terminal. As for myself I ran the wire from the hot side of the starter solenoid (I just thought it was a little cleaner).

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I too would like to run lights on my 505xcf and everyone seems to be recommending the trail tech stuff.I was just wondering if these products increase flywheel effect and which combo to run for max wattage vs. lowest flywheel weight?(I am dead against adding flywheel mass)Also I have been reading about some new 7 series battery and was wondering if it would help when running a lighting setup?

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I too would like to run lights on my 505xcf and everyone seems to be recommending the trail tech stuff.I was just wondering if these products increase flywheel effect and which combo to run for max wattage vs. lowest flywheel weight?(I am dead against adding flywheel mass)Also I have been reading about some new 7 series battery and was wondering if it would help when running a lighting setup?

Running a bigger battery doesn't do you any good if your lights are overpowering the charging system. Then you just have a dead battery that weighs more. The YTZ-7S battery has more CCA so it makes the bike start easier. That is the only reason for the change.

You have two options as listed above. A flywheel weight (+ 8oz.) or a stator. The flywheel has better magnets which ups the power capability. The stator has more windings per pole for more power. That's it. In theory, more windings increases the magnetic field (thus more electrical power) which also adds "flywheel effect."

The only thing I feel with the +8 oz flywheel on my SXF is it starts faster. Other than that, I don't even notice it. If you are dead set against adding any "flywheel effect" then I am sorry to say you are pretty much screwed!

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ACFAC43.JPG

I have the headlight and rear tail light (not shown in photo) on my new 505 XCF.

SNAKE: You can only get recreational rego on the 505XCF in Aussie not full rego.

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In the states I have found this company. sicassracing.com, that I will be ordering my headlight and taillight from.

check em out

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I too would like to run lights on my 505xcf and everyone seems to be recommending the trail tech stuff.I was just wondering if these products increase flywheel effect and which combo to run for max wattage vs. lowest flywheel weight?(I am dead against adding flywheel mass)Also I have been reading about some new 7 series battery and was wondering if it would help when running a lighting setup?

There are plenty of guys here that have the TT flywheel and have said they only notice positive effects from the heavier flywheel or don't notice it at all.

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To save on cost is it really as simple as changing the flywheel ??

This doesnt sound right to me, tho Im no electrician but would like to

know what the increas in output to the battery is.

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I believe there is more magnet area or stronger magnets which produce more juice when passing by the coils. They say you can get away with 35w lights with the flywheel alone.

For $219 you get the kit with flywheel and stator good for 90w, you could run a fan and a NICE light! Thats a real good price IMO.

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To save on cost is it really as simple as changing the flywheel ??

This doesnt sound right to me, tho Im no electrician but would like to

know what the increas in output to the battery is.

The heavyier flywheel from TT has much stronger magnets, thus a stronger electrical field and more power.

At idle with the larger flywheel, my battery is still charging (13.6+ volts) not only when my HID racelight is on, but also when it ignites (which uses up way more power). So the increase with just the flywheel alone has to be at least 35W, and is probably more than likely in the 45W range (although I have not measured it exactly).

I do have the HO stator sitting on the shelf in the shop waiting to go on. I am custom building a dual HID racelight setup for faster night excursions this year.

If I had to go out on a limb, I would estimate that the stator alone is probably a 35W increase, the flywheel alone is 40-45W, but together they are the claimed 90W (the better magnets embedded in the heavier flywheel will get more out of the HO stator than the stock flywheel can).

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I swapped in my TT stator last night. There is a pretty big difference in the windings between the two (duh). It actually amazes me that they can get so much power out of such a dinky stator considering how darn big the one on my XR650R is. But it is going to be nice knowing that I can run my 75W of HID race lights and my handwarmers all at the same time if necessary.

Statorcomparison2.jpg

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My mouth is watering just thinking about those lights!!!

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i use a hid-- 33 watts once warmed up and no problems with starting... YET....

Just a simple toggle switch with running light as low beam, and hid ballast as high beam.

You can find these ballast/bulb conversions for 129 on ebay for a pair.. Harbor freight has them from time to time...

had to grind down the plastic/composite on the bulb so it would fit into the huge stock bulb location.. Will be held by silicone in the future..

Plastic lens will not melt.. Left it on for 20 minutes to test on the workbench..

Light output is very good--- ( the mirror is the limiting factor --- the stock plastic chrome only gets so good, the shape is irregular but works fine..)

Original stock light ouput was a joke.. Now it pulls 33 watts @ 13 volts. WAY MORE OUTPUT in lumens..

Total job cost----- 60 bucks for 1/2 an ebay kit, and $2 worth of shrink wrap/ loom wrap.. Took 2 hours to do..

Don't be afraid to DIY.. It saves $$$$ and feels good tweaking and soldering

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no work yesterday so made a license plate holder and bought a mountain bike blinking led saftey light.... Added a 680ohm resister ( converts the 12 volts down to 3 volts on the circuit board (normally 2- 1.5 volt AAA batteries) ..

Then epoxied the board to the licence plate.. then ground the red lens/diffuser and epoxied it to the leds..

Bracket was made from a piece of alumimun from home depot-- very soft and easy to bend.. Covered it with shrinkwrap for looks then used longer then oem screws to attach directly to the exaust.. Wire just pops up inder the seat and goes directly to a quick disconnect. --- where it grabs 12 volts positive from the headlight switch....

have to use a diode so the power doesn't backflow to high beams when i switch on low beams and vice versa-- Diodes are one way valves in electric terms...

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here in Iceland they run Trailtech xenon lights on both the XC and SX-F bikes by changing the stator... so you can definitely do it...

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This was before I went to Baja in November. Had no problems in 2700 Km. I've got a rewound Trailtech stator and flywheel.

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