Look what the UPS man delivered today

Will see if I have time to install these this weekend. Pro Taper EVO in Henry/Reed bend.

IMG_7237JPG2.jpg

IMG_7239JPG2.jpg

IMG_7243JPG2.jpg

IMG_7246JPG2.jpg

Nice! You are gonna like those. Good bars make a world of difference in control.

Nice! I put some ProTaper CR Highs on my R and it feels like a different bike. Awesome!

Nice I just installe the CR hi bend, have not had a chance to test them yet! :lol: ThumperTalk Store rules!

is it hard to replace handlebars?

Nope! Pretty simple... :lol:

My son has the CR highs on his RM125 and to me they seem really really high and feel like they have to much sweep to the rear. He loves them but they feel weird to me. I also have a set of CR mids as a spare for his bike. How do the reed/henrys compare as far as pull back and rise?

My son has the CR highs on his RM125 and to me they seem really really high and feel like they have to much sweep to the rear. He loves them but they feel weird to me. I also have a set of CR mids as a spare for his bike. How do the reed/henrys compare as far as pull back and rise?

I have CR High EVO's on my 650r as well as my CR250. They definitely feel a lot higher on the CR. It depends a lot on the initial postion of the stock bars and clamps. The stock setup on my 650R left me feeling like I was always hunched over (too low). Truth be told, they feel a lot better now, but I wouldn't complain if they were another inch or so taller.

I use to run Renthal deserts on my 650R they are pretty close to Renthals RC high bend. I really liked them, a bit wide but not to high on that bike. Wide is good on the big red pig. the extra leverage helps turn that hog. Damn I miss that bike.

is it hard to replace handlebars?

It's not hard at all. You will have to clip the nipple on the controls though. On the stock bars there are holes that the nipples slip into to hold your on/off/start button and the blinker/brights in place. The aftermarket bars don't have any such holes so either you can drill them or clip the nipples off those items. Most just clip the nipple.

How many times did I say nipple, nipple nipple nipple.:lol:

BTY, those Evo's look sweet. I went with Pro taper SE CR high bends, but I've been trying to ride standing more, and I think I could still use another inch of more of height. Rox risers may be in order, but then I would have to go with a bar like the evo, something that doesn't have that huge crash pad/support cross bar. i say that because if I go higher, my Vapor may get hidden. It never really ends.

thanks I have been trying to get the courage to change hanlebars i really dont like the way the stock xrl handlebars feel

I didn't want to go too high. I figured the Tusk big bar adapters that I bought give it an extra 3/4-inch in height. If I feel I need to go higher I can always go with the Rox Risers, which many riders who bought them seem to like a lot.

I have the cr high bend, I think they are like 96 or 98 mm, I noticed that the Pastrana and the KTm bends are like 105 or so with a lot less sweep.

A couple years ago I replaced the stock bars on my Bandit for some with less pull back and then added risers. I was shocked at how much more comfortable they were because my wrists weren't cockeyed from the pull back. I want to do something similar on my pig. I want as tall as possible...I'm 6'0" with a 34" insteam so when I stand on the pegs I am bent over quite a bit......but I also want to eliminate the sweep that is on the stock bars. So I need tall bars with less sweep. Also, I think I would lean toward a little less height if it eliminated sweep because risers would always be an option. Any thoughts?

A couple years ago I replaced the stock bars on my Bandit for some with less pull back and then added risers. I was shocked at how much more comfortable they were because my wrists weren't cockeyed from the pull back. I want to do something similar on my pig. I want as tall as possible...I'm 6'0" with a 34" insteam so when I stand on the pegs I am bent over quite a bit......but I also want to eliminate the sweep that is on the stock bars. So I need tall bars with less sweep. Also, I think I would lean toward a little less height if it eliminated sweep because risers would always be an option. Any thoughts?

atv bend should fit ya

Thanks! Pros and cons on 7/8" vs 1 1/8"?

Thanks! Pros and cons on 7/8" vs 1 1/8"?

1 1/8 should be a much stronger bar than 7/8. Also, check out Renthal's website. They have a nice feature where you can put in the make/model for any bike and it will give the dimensions of the stock handlebars for height, pullback, etc. Use that as a starting point when comparing the aftermarket bars. I think the stock XRL bars have like 75mm of sweep (pullback) if I recall which is a lot and gives most riders a cramped riding position. The Henry/Reed EVO's I just bought have 54mm sweep which should make a big difference and really "open up" the cockpit for me. Also, the EVO's are super light.

It's not hard at all. You will have to clip the nipple on the controls though. On the stock bars there are holes that the nipples slip into to hold your on/off/start button and the blinker/brights in place. The aftermarket bars don't have any such holes so either you can drill them or clip the nipples off those items. Most just clip the nipple.

How many times did I say nipple, nipple nipple nipple.:lol:

XRLDTG, since you like talking about nipples so much, I'll give you another opportunity to talk about them some more. Okay, first, where on the controls are they? Second, by clipping the nipples is there a risk that the controls might slip or move on the aftermarket bars? I'd like to do it the correct way and drill the aftermarket bars but that sounds like it might be a royal pain because I'd have to drill it perfectly and then it leaves little room to adjust the controls afterwards if I don't like the position.

XRLDTG, since you like talking about nipples so much, I'll give you another opportunity to talk about them some more. Okay, first, where on the controls are they? Second, by clipping the nipples is there a risk that the controls might slip or move on the aftermarket bars? I'd like to do it the correct way and drill the aftermarket bars but that sounds like it might be a royal pain because I'd have to drill it perfectly and then it leaves little room to adjust the controls afterwards if I don't like the position.

ahh nipples, pert pencil eraser nipples, slippery nipples, saucer nipples, lol

I'ts been a while since I did mine, but you will find them when you attempt to tighten up the controls. All I did was clip them off and tightened up the clamps. They will move if you give them enough pressure, but they don't just move on their own.

The reason I clipped mine rather than drill intot he bar was because I move the controls when I'm off road standing. I rotate them more downward. Had I drilled holes in the bar, they would not be moveale.

I think most people here have simply clipped them and not looked back. It's not they are just going to slip all over the place on theirown and who wants to put holes in a nice new bar like the one you just got?

Okay, then I'm more inclined to fondle, excuse me - clip, the nipples. Thanks. :lol:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now