suzuki suspension

we just picked up a rm 250 08

and figured that the front is so hard it´s almost not moving....

the forks are not bend .. the clicks are in standard ...

the previous owner had not much clue .... he was just riding once in a while in the woods.. and he promised that he had done nothing to the fork...

so you guys experienced something similar?

No.

How much do you weigh...what type of riding do you do (I would have to ask what gear do you spend most your time in...)

If it doesn't move freely if you push up and down on it with the brake engaged...then of course something is wrong.

At the bottom of the fork where the axle is clamped, one side of the axle will have a nut, the other will not. On the side that has no axle nut, loosen the bolts that clamp the fork to the axle, and then try the fork while these bolts are still loose. If this seems to free the fork up, compress the fork as deeply as you can several times. Then tighten the axle clamping bolts again.

@harrperf hahah yes i know what you mean in what gear ... but it was such a good price we just had to buy it

no i wasn´t riding it yet but when i engage the brake it just moving 1/3 with

190 pounds trying to move it....

can that be caus it was now ridden for 2 month and many days standing in temp below feezing ?

i just talked to the guy again and he told me that some mechanic changed the seals and the oil in the outer....

maybe the screwed up when putting on the rebound aduster?

ah am i correct this is a showa fork ....

i personally just have experience with kayaba

Check the easy stuff first, bleed off any air that has pumped up and make sure the forks are not in a bind because of a improperly installed front wheel. Loosen the pinch bolts, work the suspension while holding the front brake, and then tighten.

thx ray but i have done all this first

The forks shouldn't go that far down when just pushing on it....1/3 the way sounds right to me.

If it moves fluidly/freely...ride it first before making assumptions!

Check the fluid level, it may be too high. The person who did the seals may have not set the correct height of the fork fluid.

alright we tested it yesterday ...cleaned aand lubed the dust bearings

rode to get it warmed up than bleed

the real problem is actually that it needs alot of force to move the 1st 2 mm

than it looks to work fine....

we also tried all different clicker settings form stock to full soft and hard....

and is´s responding but just the first millimeters it´s kind of sticking

next step will be a changing the oil but i´m not sure if this is really the reason

i just talked to the guy again and he told me that some mechanic changed the seals and the oil in the outer....

Many times the bushings can get damaged when the forks get slammed apart to replace the seals so if they weren't replaced then they could be causing the stiction.

doc

Yes the old bike shop mechanic is good at slide hammering and damaging bushes. They actually teach them to pull a fork apart this way, even the owners manual describes the technique.:p

I've also seen mechanics that are not familiar with twin chamber forks put way too much oil in, like 630cc each leg!:ride: Poor old rider almost broke his arms over the first jump.

But in your case it might just be new seals providing a bit of stiction, check the torque settings on the lower triple clamps as well, I think you have said you have checked for binding at the axle? These are the first things to check.

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