did dry rebuild

By the way, I stuck in a JE piston a month ago. I did the bone dry assembly method.

Before the new piston, the bone stock the bike would burn oil. Quite a bit actually, the dip stick would always read low after filling it. So I'd fill it, ride it and it would be a 1/4 down the stick after 2 hours of riding. Like clock work.

With the JE piston and the dry rebuild, I have not had the need to top off the oil ever. I change the oil every 12 hours and every bit of oil in in there after 12 hours.

I won't lie, I was nervous about the completly dry thing. Thought you all were crazy. Guess not. Will be doing it on my ICECUBE. :lol:

Just did my second dry rebuild with a new JE Piston last nite. NEver had any oil burning probs either. Lots of opinions out there though, KELSTER said its the only way to go!

I change the oil every 12 hours and every bit of oil in in there after 12 hours.

Is that like trails...or hard mx?

Lots of hours on oil the oil for a honda (with so little to start with....)

I would like to see sunruh's take on that (anyone remember how many hours his intervals were?)

But seems you've had no issues....so must work:thumbsup:

It is MX but I am more of a low/mid range rider.

I follow what the manual says as far as intervals for service for many reasons. I'll be sending in my oil for UOA shortly so we'll see if I am crazy or not. I suspect the oil in in great condition but we'll see. If not I'll adjust but then it will be based on emperical evidence not annecdotal, speculation or gut feel.

I'll post the UOA. I could nto before becasue I had to add oil after every ride. With my JE and dry build I can actually send 12 hour old oil out for analysis.

Why not just rebuild it using some lubricant from ring manufactures like childs and alberts or total seal Quick seat instead of wearing all those little micrscopic pieces from your ring and imbedding them into your new piston skirt and also running the risk of a process called micro welding where the aluminum transfers metal to the ring causing a bit of compression loss and performance decrease .I have seen as much as 7 hp loss from rings on 1 cylinder because the ring did not seat properly there was no smoke or oil consumption .if you want to lap a ring into a cylinder it should be done with a very fine diamond lapping compound and in a dummy cylinder so that all the microscopics particles can be washed away before asembly into the cylinder be used and that should only be done with tool steel rings the new moly coated or filled rings would not require lapping on the face only the land surface.I know that some of you have had good results from the so called dry rebuild but you dont know what your missing .

I used Quick Seat on my last rebuild and it worked great.

Got it from Jegs.

Yep, I'll be using a dry assebmly lube. Dry as in "not wet" not as in "no lube" at all.

what so you guys mean by dry build, I was having a oil burning problem and just rebuild my top end but I used oil to lube the piston, rings and cylinder

Yep, I'll be using a dry assebmly lube. Dry as in "not wet" not as in "no lube" at all.

You said you DID the BONE DRY METHOD now you say you WILL use DRY LUBE....Have you done it or not?? me think you did it with no lube whatsoeva & now ron has spoken you are crapping....

I did bone dry, it worked really well. I would have done dry lube on the pin actuallly but I neglected to get it and just got impatient. So I was a little worried about being totally dry, as I mentioned.

I will do dry lube this time though becasue I have dry assembly lube this time, at least on the wrinst pin. Other than that it will be bone dry.

did you notice any bump up in power at all?.....and let me get this straight, you sent your oil in to get it tested to see if it was wore out or not??? i would be intrested in seeing what the results showed

what is a dry rebuild, and what is the differnce between that and what Ron said?

As far as bump, it is hard to say. I mean yeah I did but I also went to 13.5 piston. I'l tell you this, the overall effect was a lot more than I expected from a slight compresion increase. The bikes power delivert feels very different and is not nearly as lazy as it was.

I used to burn alot of oil and that was with a bone stock bike, and the head was filthy. Now I burn no oil at all. I assume the head willl be cleaner this time around.

I am sending it in in a few hours. It will measure oil shear and viscosity. I am bettig after 12 hours oil analysis will say that the oil is in very good shape.

what about overall power? my 06 has bone stock motor and from what i can remember (last riden in november) it burned some oil, i think i am gonna do a piston this spring but dont want to be throwing my money away.

that should put a little damper on the oil controvercy, i may base my oil change frequency on what the results showed

Dry build is as it sounds a build with no wet oil. Some use dry lube some use nothing. People claim benifits and problems on both sides.

If you search for dry build you will find many threads on it including Rons elaboration on what he said earlier. Not sure how much is theory and how much has been actually detected with an electron microscope. What he says makes sense but I am not totally sure it has any real effect or is a real effect. It may be more theory than fact but even if it is fact it may not be an issue at all just a foot note. I don't know.

It maks sense to me to use dry lube on the pin though. Any bearig needs some lube, but sliding/seating surfacs should be dry. When the motor runs it splashes oils up there is real short order. I do not subbst starting the bike after a dry bulld and pinning the throttle, rather let it idle for 10 or so seconds before headoing out for normal break in procedure. Just my opnion, it makes sense, no real R&D to support this.

Dry builds happen in cars too btw. We are talking top ends not bottom ends.

Hey, I just go tthe Athena kit. I'll put it on in a week or so. I can send you my JE 13.5 if you want it. It has about 10 hours on it. Just buy new rings and go. No charge. :lol:

ha your kinda a crazy guy. first you wan to put a ice cube kit in it, then you quick put in a JE, now you want a athena kit? lol

you mean 10 hours now or your assuming you gonna put 10 on it? i will wait untill you decide to take it out then we will talk about it :lol:

Oh damn I want it im in state! Starving racer! I put oil on the wrist pin, not enough to drip on the cylinder but enough for a couple seconds cold start. The kick start lever feels a lot stiffer doesn't it?


You always want to put some oil on the piston pin. It has nothing to do with the rings sealing. The only oil on my cylinder is the residue from the ATF that I wiped it down with, and then used clean paper towels until no more ATF comes off. You turn it over by hand 50 times slowly with it dry, so no micro welding as previously mentioned will happen. You then fill it with oil, start her up, let it warm up, and ride the piss out of it (without hitting the limiter) and never let the revs go very low. The idea is to keep the cylinder pressure up. I did this with both of my CRF250Xs and they both don't burn any oil. The first CRF has over 120 hours on it and it still doesn't burn any oil. I did takes some advice and put a small dab of oil on the piston skirt this time, and I don't think it is as good as totally dry. It is not burning oil, but doesn't seem as potent. YMMV

Also, my educated mind says an engine that is not burning oil has a good ring seal, so if it is down on power, I would look elsewhere. :lol: .

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