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Alarm woes (was: Anyone got a Remus Freeride?)

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Reason for asking is that I recently bought a DRZ400SM with one fitted, but the previous owner had seen fit to ride without the baffle.. inevitably, he'd lost it so I'm riding without. However, it's a bit too loud for my taste, so I ordered a replacement.

It duly arrives, accompanied by a bolt, a washer and a funny pin-like thing. The baffle fits into the can just fine, and there's a hole in the can which matches the hole in the baffle, so I assume the bolt simply screws into the hole, and it's fitted. Right? No! The hole has no thread to accept the bolt. Aside from that, how one is expected to screw anything into the hole with only the 1" aperture in the baffle to access it is another matter... ?!

Anyhow, point being... I'm completely.. er... *baffled* as to how the hell I'm supposed to fit the damned thing!

Any ideas?

Thanks,

guy

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I have the Remus Ti slip-on. The bolt securing the the baffle had a tack weld holding it in place to the baffle. I think it was a 6-7mm bolt and released with a short sharp shock. The hole inside the can end should be threaded....unless its been stripped at some point.

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I have the Remus Ti slip-on. The bolt securing the the baffle had a tack weld holding it in place to the baffle. I think it was a 6-7mm bolt and released with a short sharp shock. The hole inside the can end should be threaded....unless its been stripped at some point.

mm.. ok, thanks. Looks like the thread's been stripped. I guess I'll have to try and force the bolt to cut a new thread on it's way in...

Failing that... I've got the OEM exhaust.. I might try fitting that and see what happens to performance. It'd be nice to actually use the engine properly without the acute embarrassment that accompanies opening the throttle!

Cheers,

guy

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Try B+Q, they should stock a larger size self taping bolt.

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I managed to get it to tap into the remains of the thread, so it's fixed for the time being.

No idea what difference it's made as I've just spent 4 hours trying to work out why the alarm/immobiliser threw a fit. Most of the time it panics and sounds the alarm every 45 seconds, and on the rare occasion I can get it to reset, the bike's totally immobilised.

**** it, I give up. I don't doubt that's it until next saturday when I get some more time to play with it, and now I'm stuck on the ****ing train all week.

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Sounds like the tilt sensor might be shot, if it's an old unit they wear and are prone to going off randomly.

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Sounds like the tilt sensor might be shot, if it's an old unit they wear and are prone to going off randomly.

hmm, that's a thought. I did actually try holding the bike upright to see if it helped, but it made no difference.

It's a Datatool S4, 2 years old. According to the user guide, the long beep means it's been triggered, and the following beep(s) are the diagnostic code.

I see either one or two diagnostic beeps. The book informs me that one beep means the fuse has blown, two means the alarm was triggered by me disarming with the ignition on.

So, from the beginning... this all started because I was unable to ascertain whether pressing the button was doing anything or not. No flash of indicators, no apparent activity on the LED. It's done this a few times so I will just turn on the ignition, set off the alarm, turn off the ignition and disarm. This morning I think I forgot to turn off the ignition before disarming. Ok, oops.. my bad!

I read elsewhere that if there's no flash of the indicators, the fuse is blown and the unit is operating from its internal battery. Power to indicators is cut by design, to conserve power.

The book goes on to inform me that to reset the alarm I should disarm and turn the ignition on. Ok, no problem. I wait for it to alarm, disarm, turn the ignition on. No life from the LCD.. Diagnostic code is one beep.. 45 seconds later, it goes off again.

So, I'm stuck with the damned thing, disarming it every 45 seconds. Once in a while I clearly perform the magic function which disables it cos it will beep a few times, then just immobilise and cause no further problem until I try to disarm it. I've yet to work out exactly *what* the magic sequence is, but typically it involves the ignition and the clutch and/or kill switch. Fiddling with all three might tempt it to calm down.

However, once this has happened, any attempt to disarm it results in it going haywire again... FFS!!!

So, a little reading round and it would seem these devices eat fuses if provoked, and the evidence I have would suggest this might be the problem. Once I'd located the damned fuse, I see that it appears to be perfectly intact. It's a solid wire type (not sure what the term is here..) where you can see the physical damage if it's blown. As mentioned.. the fuse appears completely sound.

So, I'm totally stumped. I've no spare fuse just yet so I can't try changing it.. although I guess I could just try the 20A spare from the main circuit as a diagnostic. I'm not gonna try this tonight as I've totally lost patience with the f'ing thing. I don't doubt my neighbours would agree!

Could it be the bike battery is failing? It's most likely the original battery, and the bike is 2 years old. I didn't have my multimeter with me so couldn't take a reading, and the bike is garaged away from my house.. I really don't have it in me to go and look at it again tonight, but next time I will check that.

Any thoughts gratefully received.

Cheers,

guy

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I have that same alarm on my gixer, it does something similar when the bikes battery is low.

Try charging and/or changing the battery or using your spare remote.

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I have that same alarm on my gixer, it does something similar when the bikes battery is low.

Try charging and/or changing the battery or using your spare remote.

Yeh, that sounds like a good idea, thanks. :lol:

If the voltage is notably down, I might try and hook up the TDM via the jump leads and see whether it boosts the battery enough to keep the alarm happy.

Cheers,

guy

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If the voltage is notably down, I might try and hook up the TDM via the jump leads and see whether it boosts the battery enough to keep the alarm happy.

Sure enough, my multimeter reads a paltry 5.5V from the battery. Hooking it up to the running TDM to it provides a healthy 12-14V, and the alarm works normally.

I'll have to take it out for a spin to see whether I can re-charge it.. could be that the 30 odd minutes of the alarm sounding (before I found the manual to work out what was happening) flattened it in the first instance, provoking it further.. with luck the battery's ok!

If i need to replace the battery, does anyone have any recommendations?

Cheers,

guy

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