XRR Shock Rebuild Parts List

[Ryanthegreat1]

Before I jump into buying parts for a rear shock rebuild and re valve I thought I would run this by you guys.

The current shock is leaky and I doubt it has ever been rebuilt. I plan to ride this bike in mostly supermoto trim but I also swap the dirt tires back on in the winter and ride the trails and dunes.

I believe that I am going to need parts 11 and 14 to rebuild my shock. 11 should be what causes the oil to leak down the shaft right?

Is there a rubber seal on the valve stack to seal the piston to the wall?

Edited because I am dyslexic.

[hrossington]

11 is what causes oil to run down shaft. You will want to inspect shaft closely and make sure chrome is intact - sometimes chrome is polished thru and this can be hard to see - you will see a difference in color as the steel is slightly darker than the chrome. The other part you pointed out is the bladder -if you depress the schrader valve and only gas escapes it is probably ok. Not a bad idea to change it while you are in there though - and cheap enough. Also you will want to get a good look at the bore and piston slider. I use a modified large allen screwdriver after I remove the nut holding the valve stack, place the screwdriver in the end of the shaft and slide all valving off the shock shaft and onto the screwdriver - keeps everything in order. I leave everything on the screwdriver for the first round of cleaning in the parts tank. When you reassemble make sure it is well bled and I like the feel of 2.5wt oil and refill with 175-200PSI nitrogen. I know this is more than you ask for but if this is your first trip - these are some of the questions you will have. Good luck. Oh - if your valving has never been apart, you could change seal from the other end but you will have to deal with the rebound adjuster - I prefer to go valve stack end - it is filthy in there and really needs a good cleaning.

[Ryanthegreat1]

Thanks for the great info!

I had not thought about the possibility of the chrome being polished off the shaft.

I will probably have the valve stack off as I plan to re valve this beast. I would like the highspeed compression a bit softer to handle the sharp rocks and roots in the trials. The slow speed I would like to keep about the same and maybe a bit firmer to handle some air time as well as keep it stiff enough for high speed road use.

[J_T]

Thanks for the great info!

I had not thought about the possibility of the chrome being polished off the shaft.

I will probably have the valve stack off as I plan to re valve this beast. I would like the highspeed compression a bit softer to handle the sharp rocks and roots in the trials. The slow speed I would like to keep about the same and maybe a bit firmer to handle some air time as well as keep it stiff enough for high speed road use.

There was a rubber seal that was like $11 at Rockymountain But I believe it actually fits ON #11 and not replaces it... on #11 there is a pressed on seal that seals the shaft that rides inside it. its is easily and gently pried off and the replacement is easily pressed on. not a complete replacement of #11. but should cure most leaks if due to a seal and lets hope you haven't rubbed the chrome off your shaft!? That didn't sound good.

[thestuz]

have you thought about replacing the mild dteel spring with a light weight titanium spring? would prob offer better performance and reduce weight by 2 kgs?

[Ryanthegreat1]

I have not thought about the spring being replaced.

Might be worth while if I need to change the spring rate anyway. I am not the 160 pound jockey Honda intended.

I guess it will come down to the price difference. Don't think I am going to pay 4x the going rate just to save the weight of a big lunch.

[J_T]

have you thought about replacing the mild dteel spring with a light weight titanium spring? would prob offer better performance and reduce weight by 2 kgs?

I bet the reduction in your wallet weight alone would be enough to could equal 2Kgs!? all to turn a 300lb pig to 296lb pig...hmmm

[thestuz]

actually dude,ive got my xr600 weighing almost the same weight as a xr 400.

(118)besides,would rather spend the coin lowering the weight on the 600 than blowing 9000 on a crf that will just blow up on me.if i could spend 500 to lose 2kgs,id spend 2 grand ?

[J_T]

actually dude,ive got my xr600 weighing almost the same weight as a xr 400.

(118)besides,would rather spend the coin lowering the weight on the 600 than blowing 9000 on a crf that will just blow up on me.if i could spend 500 to lose 2kgs,id spend 2 grand ?

To each their own. $500 for something thats 4 lbs lighter than the $100 part? $100 per pound? thats better than most parts for the xr650r but the bill would go up quick!

20lb dry weight difference between teh XR400 and XR650R doesn't impress me much,

http://www.dirtrodders.com/xr650r/specs.html--> 277 DRY weight. (Probably real conservative)

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/honda_xr_400_r_2002.php--> 257.1 lbs DRY weight

http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~xr600/database/sp600/sp600.htm --> '88-90 DRY = 262.3 lbs ( 6lbs difference between XR600 and XR400???) or if its happens to be a newer than 1991 (were they dual sported???) then 271.2 DRY (14 lbs difference between XR600 and XR400)

I can loose those numbers just by buying lighter helmet, boots, Heck I've lost 5 lbs just in the last 2 weeks from saving money and not eating out! My goal is to get another 15lbs off and be back to 170 in a month or two.

If I could spend 2 grand on my bike...I'd buy a used XR250R and rebuild the top end and use it only for tight trails!

Just my opinion.

[thestuz]

yeah thats what my mate says, but im 185 cm,83 kgs so no weight to lose there. besides,ive had this 600 pig for 9 years now and just spent $1000 on it and lovin it. cant dind another 600 cc bike id rather have so instead of upgrading,im just gonna throw some coin at it cos im havin more fun workin on this pig than ive had in ages.

[J_T]

cool, we're the same size. I can understand sinking cash in a good deal, sounds like a good goal and project. Keep us posted what you find that works.

[BWB63]

part number 11 is the seal bulk head. You don't need to buy #11 but, the seal is cangable inside and dosen't cost much. You will need a new bladder (#14) and maybe a dust seal. Most of the time the seal is leaking because you lost the nitrogen charge. The pressure is what makes the seal work. 180~200psi is best and reduces sictation.

The shim stack is close to the same idea and the shock rebiuld is the same as what is on this page....:

http://borynack.com/XR650R/xr650r_shock.htm

On that page there is a seal bulk head (#11) apart showing how to drill the bleed hole and the seal is out so you can see it.

Also go to the links where it says: Start Here:

http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=266765

http://borynack.com/XR650R/Suspension/KYBSHOWA.htm

[Ryanthegreat1]

part number 11 is the seal bulk head. You don't need to buy #11 but, the seal is cangable inside and dosen't cost much. You will need a new bladder (#14) and maybe a dust seal. Most of the time the seal is leaking because you lost the nitrogen charge. The pressure is what makes the seal work. 180~200psi is best and reduces sictation.

The shim stack is close to the same idea and the shock rebiuld is the same as what is on this page....:

http://borynack.com/XR650R/xr650r_shock.htm

On that page there is a seal bulk head (#11) apart showing how to drill the bleed hole and the seal is out so you can see it.

Also go to the links where it says: Start Here:

http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=266765

http://borynack.com/XR650R/Suspension/KYBSHOWA.htm

Thanks for the input. I am sure I will be reading your guide at least 6 times before I attempt this. I can build motors but I have never done shock work.

Part #11 is only like $12 so I think I might just buy the whole thing. Will I then need to pull it apart and drill the holes as described?

Which part is the dust seal? I am so unfamiliar with suspension bits.?

[BWB63]

The dust seal sits on the bottom of the seal head. $12 for the whole - this is the way to go. Yes, you will have to take it apart and drill the hole. Ice pick is a must to do the shock and you will use it here as well. Make that two Ice picks. Maybe three if you poke yourself with one and throw it across the shop and it sticks in the ceiling. I use the picks to remove the "C" clips and to remove the bottoming bumper out of the seal head but, when doing that make sure you pry away from yourself, stabbing yourself in the gut with an Ice Pick sucks.....I know, I finaly knocked the Ice pick out of the ceiling when I needed it again.

[Ryanthegreat1]

Ice pick is a must to do the shock and you will use it here as well. Make that two Ice picks. Maybe three if you poke yourself with one and throw it across the shop and it sticks in the ceiling.

Words of advice form and experienced man.?

I will be sure to pick up a few.

[Rider Eh]

Sorry I'm still a bit confused, you say you don't need to purchase part 11? I thought this was the entire seal carrier. Which part # is the dust seal then? I'm also surprised to hear the bladders leak on these, I've never seen that before. I'm about to order the parts to rebuild/revalve my shock, as it feels like a bit of a trampoline right now and is leaking oil.