Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

KDX 220 - Wonky Gear Lever

Recommended Posts

Team,

I have recently acquired an OEM new gear lever for this bike - as a lot of play was evident in the previous lever that was on the bike.

I put this new lever on and still the same play is evident.

The shaft teeth stilll appear unworn and in good condition.

PLease help me resolve this wonkiness in my gear shifting.

Byte

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the stock peice suks, its big, heavey and over built, mine was always loose feeling till i snapped it and replaced it with an IMS shifter, been tight ever since

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kawi175 - The shaft is solid and has no play when I try to wiggle it with my hand.

Sean - Do you have the part number for this IMS shifter?

What is it about the IMS lever that makes a better fit with reduced slop?

It's a pity - I think I just wasted $90 AUD with this brand new lever - and it seems the inherent design is basically no good - according to your posts.

Byte

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've cut off a thin layer from the gap before (on the side with no threads) so it could pinch down a little further on an aftermarket shifter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Jeff.

No worries. Yes, little screw fastened.

I just don't understand why/how a breand new gear lever on a true unworn shaft still shows slop...??

Byte

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've cut off a thin layer from the gap before (on the side with no threads) so it could pinch down a little further on an aftermarket shifter.

Photo?

Where did you cut and how mnay mm was cut off?

Byte

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Photo?

Where did you cut and how mnay mm was cut off?

Byte

The lever I did it to would close the gap and hit itself before it pinched down on the splines so I widened the gap to it could pinch further.

Don't have a picture of mine, but I'll use the one below as reference. I just put the lever in a vice, and used a hacksaw to cut just about a hacksaw blades width off the bottom side (side closest to ground when the lever is on the bike) of the gap in the picture below where there are no threads.

2007_Sunline_Alloy_Shift_Lever_Alloy.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Many thanks Linus.

I may try that on the new lever I just bought.

Certainly is a fair bit of meat there.

Byte

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any more thoughts on how I can eliminate this wonky/sloppy feel for this gear lever?

Byte

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
the stock peice suks, its big, heavey and over built, mine was always loose feeling till i snapped it and replaced it with an IMS shifter, been tight ever since

I notice the IMS lever is for 83-01 KDX 200s. Any idea if it'll work on the newer models?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I notice the IMS lever is for 83-01 KDX 200s. Any idea if it'll work on the newer models?

yes 95+ kdx's were indentical excpet graphics and seat covers, if it fit a 95-01, it will fit any kdx after 95, the dealer had one in stock, but most anyone has or can get ims shiftrers

this is the one i bought, labeled 83-07 200 and 220, which is correct

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWASAKI-KDX200-IMS-SHIFTER-SHIFT-LEVER-KDX-200-83-07_W0QQitemZ360137384007QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090309?IMSfp=TL0903091210009r16682

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
yes 95+ kdx's were indentical excpet graphics and seat covers, if it fit a 95-01, it will fit any kdx after 95, the dealer had one in stock, but most anyone has or can get ims shiftrers

this is the one i bought, labeled 83-07 200 and 220, which is correct

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWASAKI-KDX200-IMS-SHIFTER-SHIFT-LEVER-KDX-200-83-07_W0QQitemZ360137384007QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090309?IMSfp=TL0903091210009r16682

Good deal, thank you. I'm look into getting one.:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As I have already just bought the stock lever brand new, and want to persist with this lever.

What will work better - reducing internal diameter of hole for lever by cutting a strip of metal or should I just use red locktitie as mentioned?

Byte

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

replace the shift shaft and bearing- likely the splines on the shaft itself are worn down and in all likelyhood, the shaft bearing as well as the spring inside the case cover on teh opposite side of the shaft has become weaker over the years - wiggling it by hand without the shifter on it won't tell you a thing because you have no lever arm connected so even a weak internal spring will feel strong - you might see some up/down play on the shaft at the seal - that's bearing related. If your new shifter is visibly wiggling on the shaft after tightening it's a sure sign of the shaft splines being worn - yes, you might be able to take up some slack by getting a piece of thin metal wedged between the two, but it'll probably only fix a small portion of the whole problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

WOw - thanks Matt.

How do I replace the shift shaft and bearing?

I have the KDX manual but I don't think it explains enough to perform this exercise.

Byte

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×