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Crate engine? Complete rebuild? $$$?

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Question:

Suppose my whole motor top and bottom in my 2001 YZ250F is trashed.

What are my options?

Does anyone make a crate motor to swap into place?

If not, what kind of cost am I looking at to have it completely rebuilt?

Or does the cost just basically mean it's time to buy a new bike?

The Story:

I just found a teaspoon of metal filings caked to the oil filter of my 2001 YZ250F. That, and the oil was black..not the usual brown.

Aside from not-so-regular maintenance I've done nothing but completely defile this bike for the last 8 years hovering around the rev limiter all day keeping up with my buddies on 450's.

Adjust the valves? Never. The bike has always started first kick so I've left it alone.

Its the best machine of any kind I've ever encountered and I've been riding since the 80's.

Aside from cost I wouldn't even want a new bike because I've spent so much time getting this bike set up perfectly for me.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

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It's definitely going to be cheaper to rebuild it yourself, in total about $1000, vs. buying a used motor For $1500 and still having to fix it.

http://lukesracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LR&Product_Code=ERKYZ250F-02&Category_Code=ERKY

http://lukesracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LR&Product_Code=Y-94591-53114-00&Category_Code=

http://lukesracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LR&Product_Code=4738M07700&Category_Code=

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YZ250F-oem-yamaha-Valve-Kit-w-springs-seals-01-08_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a3Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a100QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem400035348416QQitemZ400035348416QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Add a few nick nacks here and there, plus labour to get the valve seats cut, and possible the valve guides replaced.

Thanks.

My weekends are in short supply so I plan to shell out $500 more for labor if that means I get my weekend back and another 8 years of faithfull service.

Since I'm writing a big check anyway what do you think of the 290cc kits?

Over the years I've spent way too much time tinkering with various aftermarket upgrades that add power but end up creating headaches.

I wanna ride....not tinker. You know?

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I have had great luck with my 290 kit, although it scares me when you talk about keeping it on the rev limiter all day. The 290 kits are durable, they just sign off a little early.

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Is it metalic magnetic steel or aluminum or both? Probably your cam chain is wearing out and taking out metal on the stator plate. Take off the side covers and take the cam tensioner and chain out and replace it. Take the stator plate out and check the cam chain side for wear at points where the chain would hit it. Take out the screen in the bottom end and clean that, and wash out the whole bottom end and top end. When you get it all back together, run several changes of some cheap oil and engine oil additive that is a cleaner. Gunk makes a good one. It will thin out the oil and help remove old deposits and stray metal. Run several changes of that thru the motor. Dont' ride it, just run the motor for a minute or 2, then change and put in another flush. Do it 3-4 times. Don't forget to clean inside the flywheel where the magnets are and clean out the resovoir in the front down tube and the screen at the bottom of that. Also clean out the head in the bucket area.

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Its time for a new bike. With the economy you can pick up bikes dirt cheap. I have seen good condition 06's for 2000.00.

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Its time for a new bike. With the economy you can pick up bikes dirt cheap. I have seen good condition 06's for 2000.00.

Yeah, a new bike would be a good idea, but I am sure that would result in one of 2 things. Either selling it as is and getting $500 if he's lucky, or Lying about it and screwing a poor kid over that buys it thinking it's mint. Theres nothing that angers me more than hearing about people lying and selling time bombs.

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Bloody Hell!!!

I was going to start a new thread but I've got a similar issue on my 2003 YZ250F. I checked the valve clearance 3 rides ago and all five were right in spec. The oil looked very clean when I changed it also.

After a 3 rides (one being retardedly dusty, one at a track, and one at Gorman OHV) I changed the oil yesterday. The oil that came out of the frame was black and littered with lots of small metallic particles. The oil filter had caught quite a few non ferrous (non magnetic) tiny metal flakes and particles. On the last ride I remember thinking my motor was running a bit louder (the bottom end seemed to be making more noise than usual, but I ignored it :)). I'm guessing that its a crank bearing that is going. What do you guys think?

Oh and it starts fine and seems to run great (aside from the slightly louder bottom end).

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We do this kind of work all the time.

And have quite a bit of used parts for these bikes... to try and help these older ones get through more seasons... while making it easy on the customers wallet.

I can't quote a price... and won't... because until you split cases you never know what you're going to find. But we are very reasonable. You just ship your whole motor to us.

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Bloody Hell!!!

I was going to start a new thread but I've got a similar issue on my 2003 YZ250F. I checked the valve clearance 3 rides ago and all five were right in spec. The oil looked very clean when I changed it also.

After a 3 rides (one being retardedly dusty, one at a track, and one at Gorman OHV) I changed the oil yesterday. The oil that came out of the frame was black and littered with lots of small metallic particles. The oil filter had caught quite a few non ferrous (non magnetic) tiny metal flakes and particles. On the last ride I remember thinking my motor was running a bit louder (the bottom end seemed to be making more noise than usual, but I ignored it :)). I'm guessing that its a crank bearing that is going. What do you guys think?

Oh and it starts fine and seems to run great (aside from the slightly louder bottom end).

Well now that I've read up more on metal in the oil, I am starting to lean towards it being from the clutch. But the larger flakes and louder bottom end still makes me unsure.

Is there a way to check the crank bearings without tearing the motor apart? Maybe I should do a top end (probably in need of one anyways), so at least I could check the play in the rod once the cylinder is off.

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I for one will say you wont find anyone more honest or with better pricing than Jesse at Williamsmotowerx. If you're planning on spending the money on a rebuild you can count on him to do a good job. If you decide to do the rebuild yourself Jesse does excellent cylinder head work ie replace valve guides regrind/replace valve seats etc. I just had him do a Suzuki cylinder head for me and it turned out great. Heres a pic of the head after he finnished it.

Picture045.jpg

Good luck what ever you decide. :)

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I really want to do the rebuild on my own, but there are two things holding me back:

1) I rent (with two other housemates) and the garage we have looks like a complete WAR ZONE!

2) I'm afraid of the bottom end.

I think I will start off my seeing if I can make some room in the garage. Then pull the top end off. If it looks like I've got play in my crank well we will just have to wait till I get there.

Just curious what in the bottom end could be getting torn up that is non metallic (other than the clutch)?

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Typically if you have aluminum in the filter its from the clutch. The crank and lower end are all pretty much metal.

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