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Check Your Linkage Bearings

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If you like water crossings, like I do, don't ignore your linkage bearings :moon: . I checked mine last week and the middle bearings were shot - rusty as rusty gets................and a pain in the :ride: to get out. The other three connection points were fine. Going back with Bel-ray waterproof grease.:p

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Did mine a few months ago. Little dry and needed grease.

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I've got some slop in one of them.

Have to find out which one some time.

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A good tip for everyone, this is often neglected. I try to do that at least every second year. We can only drive in the summer over here as there's still snow on the ground. I regreased my bearings this weekend including the rear swing arm bearings. No problems whatsoever.

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You can push out the spacers (hollow sleeve that the bolt goes through) and clean out the old grease/mud with gasoline,kerosine or varsol and then reassemble. The loose needle bearings will probably fall out so do this over a bucket. All you do is smear a little grease in the bearing sleeve then set them back in. The grease holds them in place until the spacer goes in. BTW, there are 33 rollers in each bearing.

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might have to check mine to. since its a 94. but it feels real smooth

You may never notice rusted out needle bearings because it is a gradual process but you will notice a smoother action in the rear end when they are replaced.

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If you like water crossings, like I do

well mine are rooted then. Might be easier to just let them rust away instead of trying to get them out

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If you own a DR 350, the process is much easier as there's grease zerks for adding grease to the swingarm bearing.:)

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If you like water crossings, like I do, don't ignore your linkage bearings :banghead: . I checked mine last week and the middle bearings were shot - rusty as rusty gets................and a pain in the :) to get out. The other three connection points were fine. Going back with Bel-ray waterproof grease.:thumbsup:

I been using that stuff for like, forever. It's awesome. I use that stuff on just about everything with a bearing.

Every bearing and bushing that wasn't inside the cases of my YZ250 was packed full of that stuff. I just wish the tub was larger.

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Does any one have link that would help me grease the swing arm and linkage bearings on my 2005 DR650se? I've spent about 2 hours now trying to find something with pictures and stuff. Not all wasted time because I learned how to completely disassemble the carb and clean it but I have not been able to find anything on the rear suspension.

I'm really hesitant to do it without any service manual to follow or any instructions but I also want to check the bearings and clean and lube them. I did run accross one thread in which a guy was trying to replace his shock and the spring shot out and it ruined his damper. It also mentioned that many people have gotten injured by removing the spring when they didn't know what they were doing. That made me even more hesistant to try it on my own. I'm descent with mechanical stuff but with absolutely no guide and no torque specs and stuff I'm hesitant to just start ripping away at it. Any help out there?

I looked all trough the sticky links and couln't find anything and also did all kinds of searches on the DR thread......I have found nothing of real use. If anyone had a link on doing the steering bearings that would be cool too.

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Close, but it's for a 2005 YZ250. It's the same principal for the DR, however. I used this thread when I cleaned/re-greased my linkage bearings a few months ago.

Good luck!

Got a link to the thread? How did it go? Pretty easy job or pretty tough? It doesn't seem like it would be too bad once you get the shock off (I don't know how to do that).

I'll keep looking till I see a response.

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Got a link to the thread? How did it go? Pretty easy job or pretty tough? It doesn't seem like it would be too bad once you get the shock off (I don't know how to do that).

I'll keep looking till I see a response.

Yes! Just click the blue font type in my previous post and it will take you there. It's actually an easy job. Just make sure you don't loose any of the bearings' needles. I already had the rear wheel off for a tire change, so it made getting to the linkage easier. All you have to do is remove the shock's lower mounting bolt - the shock itself does not have to come out (I may be wrong, but I don't think the shock's top mounting pivot has a bearing - it's more like an elastomeric bushing).

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Yes! Just click the blue font type in my previous post and it will take you there.

:ride: I guess I can't see text color changes very well in my old age. :thumbsup:

Thanks. I'll be digging into it pretty soon. The I did actually find that thread when I was searching along with a few others that are really similar. Good threads but none of them show the actual shock removal part.

I'm probably concerned over nothing because I haven't started the work yet and it might be easier than I'm thinking once I actually get into it. I just read a few posts about the shock possibly unloading on you and causing some hazards if you don't know what you're doing. None of the threads mentioned how to remove the shock safely to get to the linkage bearings.

That's what I was worried about. They all just show everything in pieces......like the following threads I found:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=575164

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=857459&highlight=shock+linkage

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=876085&highlight=shock+linkage

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=857961&highlight=repack+bearings

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When I took my shock off to send to Cogent Dynamics, I had the preload almost maxxed-out and I had no issues getting it off. I had my bike on a motorcycle lift, so this allows the swingarm to fully extend down to unload the shock. Most people remove their airboxes to get better access to the shock for removal, but I didn't. I removed the linkage first, then dropped the shock down through the space in the swingarm. I did, however, remove the exhaust header, otherwise the clamp at the header/midpipe junction would've marred my shock's resevoir when attempting to manipulate/turn the shock as I dropped it down and out.

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I just pulled my shock today for new oil and nitro. This only takes about 20 minutes so if you don't feel confident do this and you will know the pivots are totally unloaded

I put the bike on a stack of 6"X6"'s til the rear tire is in the air. Remove seat, sideplates, airbox and carb boot (I wanted to clean mine and it's just as easy to remove them). Crank the spring preload all the way off. Remove the bottom shock bolt. Remove the upper shock bolt and the shock can be removed thru the top. You can also just remove the lower shock bolt and you will know everything is unloaded

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