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Convert to DC, floating ground

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Okay, I edited out most of my original post after finding more information online.

The big question I have is... how efficient are the Trail Tech and BajaDesigns rectifiers? Per what I've read, 81% or so is the maximum efficiency for full wave. Planning to run a small (8 Ah) battery, 55w light, and LED blinkers/tail on the TE610. Haven't heard an exact efficiency number from either of them. :-\

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I don't think simple efficiency is the correct metric.

If the system uses a simple full wave rectifier, the efficiency can not be much more than the lower 80's.

However, many motorcycle regulators use SCRs (silicon controlled rectifiers) as combined rectifiers and control elements. The forward voltage of an "on" SCR is way lower than a silicon diode so could be in the 90 % + range.

Anyway, your husky alternator will not be limited by efficiency for the load you outline. If you haven't bought all the stuff yet, I would get an old surplus Honda single phase regulator/rectifier off ebay. I did for my 1998 Ducati ST2 (this year was problematic for regulator/alternator failures) after the original $200 regulator took a dump. Still going and runs cooler. Unfortunately, many bikes used shunt regulators instead of series regulators. A shunt regulator regulates the output voltage by loading the alternator. A series regulator limits by dropping excess voltage in a variable impedance element of some sort, therefore saving the alternator from over-heating.

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I've also got a 99 TE610, with a tiny battery pack (12 rechargable AAs), and run a 55/60 headlight and LED taillight without a problem (at least not that I know of). I have no clue what setup it is though, I bought it as is.

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Good to know. I'm planning a small gel pack battery, 55/60 headlight, DOT-legal LED tail, and some blinkers. The big thing with LEDs and me isn't the power savings so much as it is the vibration resistance of them since the TE610 without a balance shaft tends to go through bulbs, especially for blinkers and brake lights - stuff that isn't always turned on. Mine tends to eat brake and tail bulbs fairly quickly and it doesn't appear to be a voltage spike issue or anything based on multimeter readings - just vibration, as there is zero rubber shock absorbing material - sockets are right in the plastic on the tail light, which is direct attached to the bike, again with zero shock absorption.

Norm, thanks for the info about shunt vs series regulator/rectifiers. That is good to keep in mind. Is that Honda one you used a series one?

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Ya, it is a series unit.

I also bought a couple after-market made in America regulators for Harley Big Twins. I needed 28 Amp service, and these did the job. They don't have the generator lwarning light drive like the stock Ducati, but what the hey!

You will only need around 10 Amp service. I used to have a list of all the Japanese bikes with, I think, Nippo Denso series control regulators, but not anymore.

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Good info, thanks! Eventually it'd be cool to run 2 x 55/60 watt bulbs but might have to go with a lower draw system like HID for that down the road. For now a single 55/60 should suffice.

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