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oil leaking from behind the sprocket...?

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There is oil leaking from my front sprocket. I took the sprocket off and noticed it has been the culprit of the leaking oil. How do I fix this? It appears to be leaking from the hole that surrounds the protusion that the sprocket fits on to. :p

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mine leaked one day after i was riden, it was clean about half an hour before i rode, i cam back and it was laking everywhere, i had to get new seals, take it to ur local shop if they dont charge bad, i didnt do mine myself cause he said u had to move bushings and other crap so it sounded to comlicated, but if it goes again, im doing it my self.

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i just read that faq abotu the loctite fix. But my sprocket isn't coming loose, my sprocket shaft is leaking oil.

You can get to the oil seal,by removing the sprocket,and spacer......Then you can get to the seal.... Replace it....then do the loctite fix....U should be good to go...........:p:ride:

Erling

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i cant get that diagonal seal off thats held on by two philips screws.

Look here...

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/2/Make/Suzuki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/7815/Model/DR_Z400S/GroupID/371430/Group/TRANSMISSION_

That is the bushing that could fail..... A little wiggle should remove it...then the o-ring and then seal...... It is important that you fix it before any riding....

:p:ride:

You might be tempted to muscle it out(seal) before the bushing....Patience here so not to damage anything.....

Erling

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Put a cordless screwdriver bit in a quarter inch socket and push. thats how i got mine loose after the motorcycle shop screwed my bike all up. Do the research and fix it yourself. Easier than it seems. Saves you a lot of cash.

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There's a guy in England who sells a stainless steel countershaft bushing that has an oring inside it.Search "rusted countershaft bushing" in the DRZ forum and you should be able to find his link. i bought one, and it is of impeccable quality. i haven't installed it yet, but when the rest of my drive stuff shows up, i'm going to do all the fixes at once.

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Perhaps I misunderstood....... You can`t get the Phillips screws off..... Or the bushing.......

Erling

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There's a guy in England who sells a stainless steel countershaft bushing that has an oring inside it.Search "rusted countershaft bushing" in the DRZ forum and you should be able to find his link. i bought one, and it is of impeccable quality. i haven't installed it yet, but when the rest of my drive stuff shows up, i'm going to do all the fixes at once.

Highly recommended ,set is wheel spacers (back) and cs spacer in stainless.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Suzuki-DRZ-400----CS-spacer-kit---ESSENTIAL-FOR-ALL-DRZ_W0QQitemZ260369416520QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090301?IMSfp=TL090301125003r4575

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i can't get the two screws that hold on a piece of metal. In this pic, it's already removed. But its the two screws on the edges of the round part. If the round part were a clock the screws are at 1 oclock and 7 o clock. gbox_1.jpg

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i can't get the two screws that hold on a piece of metal. In this pic, it's already removed. But its the two screws on the edges of the round part. If the round part were a clock the screws are at 1 oclock and 7 o clock. gbox_1.jpg

Like tr3 said......get creative with a #3 phillips......:p:ride:

Erling

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Actually #3 Phillips bit. You need to use a hand held impact driver. Back in the day when we all had Honda's and all Honda's were put together with Pan head Phillips drive screws, every body had a Sears impact driver in their tool box. That is what you need. You hit the end of the impact driver with a hammer. The hammer blow holds the bit in contact with the screw and turns it at the same time. You will need 2 new screws when you put it back together.

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Actually #3 Phillips bit. You need to use a hand held impact driver. Back in the day when we all had Honda's and all Honda's were put together with Pan head Phillips drive screws, every body had a Sears impact driver in their tool box. That is what you need. You hit the end of the impact driver with a hammer. The hammer blow holds the bit in contact with the screw and turns it at the same time. You will need 2 new screws when you put it back together.

Upppssss....Thanks Noble.....:p:ride:

Erling

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Installed the stainless spacer. You need to use a manual impact driver with a phillips bit. Otherwise you will just strip the heads. Mine had factory locktite on the threads.

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OK, here is the next procedure once the Phillips drive is all stripped out.

Drill the heads off. Start with a standard 1/8 inch drill bit. Drill about 1/4 inch deep into each screw. What is remaining of the Phillips drive will center the drill. Now go to a 1/4 inch drill bit. It is slightly larger than 6mm so it will take the heads right off. Now you have the retainer off but still have the body of the screw in the hole. There is no reason for these screws to be Loctited in place so the screws should turn right out. Use a small screw driver to wedge in what remains of the 1/8 hole. If no joy, go buy a left hand twist 1/8 drill bit. With the drill motor turning left, drill into the screw. As the drill bites, it will turn the screw out. If still no Joy, PM me.

Another option is to cut a cross slot in the damaged screw head with a Dremel tool and use a the impact driver with a standard screwdriver bit. You will probably damage the retainer cutting the slot. If that does not work, it may be more difficult to center the 1/8 drill to drill the head off.

I like drilling the head off because it is pretty fool proof as long as you do a good job of centering the drill. If you wander off into the case, you are screwed.

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