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charging system problem

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Ok, so I've been using the Noble charging system troubleshooting guide.

Quick history, 2001 DRZ-s, when I put it away for winter everything was fine, went to start it up a month ago, battery was toast, no surprise. Threw on a charger and battery would not take a charge. :p Jumped the bike just to ride it around, still no charge.

Here is where I'm confused, I lifted the leads at the battery, only putting 3 volts at idle with battery disconnected (I know the battery needs replaced). So low voltage said to me charging problem which led me to Noble's writeup. No continuity phase to ground on the stator, about .8-ohms phase to phase bike off. Bike on, about 60V phase-to-phase. Checked the diodes in RR, they're fine. Fuse at battery was good. Only thing I haven't checked cause no good battery, is the voltage at the RR plug and the leakage current to ground.

I'm reluctant to put a new battery in not knowing what the problem is if any. heck, I might be over analyzing and it's just a bad battery.

any thoughts? thanks

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Ok, so I've been using the Noble charging system troubleshooting guide.

Quick history, 2001 DRZ-s, when I put it away for winter everything was fine, went to start it up a month ago, battery was toast, no surprise. Threw on a charger and battery would not take a charge. :moon: Jumped the bike just to ride it around, still no charge.

Here is where I'm confused, I lifted the leads at the battery, only putting 3 volts at idle with battery disconnected (I know the battery needs replaced). So low voltage said to me charging problem which led me to Noble's writeup. No continuity phase to ground on the stator, about .8-ohms phase to phase bike off. Bike on, about 60V phase-to-phase. Checked the diodes in RR, they're fine. Fuse at battery was good. Only thing I haven't checked cause no good battery, is the voltage at the RR plug and the leakage current to ground.

I'm reluctant to put a new battery in not knowing what the problem is if any. heck, I might be over analyzing and it's just a bad battery.

any thoughts? thanks

The r/r test at the battery need done with a battery installed/connected.....The r/r senses a "no need" situation and could show a "no charge"...well sort of....Button line....bat. need to be connected for the r/r test to be valid....:p:ride:

Erling

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Just to clarify - If you were following the Noble troubleshooting guide, one of the first things on the list is to have a good fully charged battery. You can't properly do functional tests without one.

Many times a battery stored and gone dead will not take a charge. But sometimes, with the proper charger, they can be made to accept a charge. It is likely the battery will not come back fully but you don't have to give up at first try. If the battery is less then 2 yr old, it might be worth it to take it to a shop that can charge it.

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Just to clarify - If you were following the Noble troubleshooting guide, one of the first things on the list is to have a good fully charged battery. You can't properly do functional tests without one.

You're right, I did not follow it all the way thru as I could not get a battery last night at 7, I was going through the steps I could do with the battery not there. Which is everything except voltage off the rectifier and leakage current. I will finish the troubleshooting tonight with a brand spankin new fully charged battery. Just seems like to me that the open circuit voltage would be higher at the battery leads, else a new battery seems like a temp fix.

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