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TE610 Clutch Lever Adjustment

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I have noticed that on my new TE610 it is nearly impossible to find neutral while at a stop. The shift lever would not move at idle, and I had to rev the engine just to be able to move the lever. On the ride home from work I decided to back out the adjustment on the clutch lever and the problem went away, the clutch fully disengages when I pull the clutch lever. When I got home I looked in the manual and it states to loosen the adjustment to allow 1.2mm free play. I did this and am back to where it is difficult to find neutral, at least in the garage while revving the engine. Anyone else have a hard time finding neutral?

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What year? I'm assuming a cable clutch bike...

You really ought to have SOME free play. As long as you have a little bit you're ok. If you can get it set up with some free play and the ability to fully disengage you're good.

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Adjust the clutch until you have just a little free play. It will still be a little difficult to find neutral but not as bad. This seems to be a common complaint with many of the Husky's, more so when new.

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mine is an '07 te450 and it has the magura hydraulic set up. it was dragging badly, i couldn't find neutral at all and finding any gear at idle was impossible as well. for some reason someone has adjusted the clutch lever span wheel (the red star type wheel behind the lever) and with the lever all the way in the clutch was still partially engaged, i wound mine in clockwise to increase the span and voila' neutral is easy to find, and it doesn't drag the clutch at all.

paul.

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mine is an '07 te450 and it has the magura hydraulic set up. it was dragging badly, i couldn't find neutral at all and finding any gear at idle was impossible as well. for some reason someone has adjusted the clutch lever span wheel (the red star type wheel behind the lever) and with the lever all the way in the clutch was still partially engaged, i wound mine in clockwise to increase the span and voila' neutral is easy to find, and it doesn't drag the clutch at all.

paul.

Good!

deluxe68- I don't know if you have a cable or a hydro on your 610 so I am covering some basics of both-

hydrolics

I always turn the red adjuster (which only adjust the throw length) all the way in- max throw... hydrolics are self adjusting so no worries when its cold or hot... don't have to adjust like a cable (that's one of the big advantages)... if there's air in the system though- it will decrease your throw length because air compresses more than the fluid.

Cables

Too much slack on a cable clutch will give you less throw~ harder to find neutral- the idea there is that once the clutch plates are hot they swell and if the cable is too tight it drags and not fully engage- burning clutch plates. you want it loose enough so you don't have that - the manual just prescribes a general safe for everybody slack length- probably too much in many cases.

Other issues- effecting both types

-if your idle is set high- neutral will be harder to find at idle- otherwise you'd find neutral too easy when trying to get 2nd while riding...

-If a clutch plate is warped a little it will create some drag even when disengaged~making it harder to find neutral.

-Different oils create more and less drag with the clutch- effecting to a minamal degree- but mentionable.

Other than that- having a hard time finding neutral is a very small issue and really common- If its an easy fix (adjustment )- great! If not turn, off the bike and then put it in neutral. It doesn't mean your tranny is having issues or there is a big uncommon defect in your bike- its common, even if it doesn't seem ideal or perfect- Right now my brand new 09 finds newtral at idle- after a few hundred miles it probably won't- no worries.:)

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The factory cable on the 610 is kinda whimpy and tends to strecth so you end up loseing some of the action it takes to disengage the clutch. Replace the stock cable with a heay duty Barnett cable and life will be much better.

Halls Husqvarna usually has the cable in stock.:)

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The bike is a brand new 08. I have the cable adjusted so I can at least get neutral at the longer red lights. It was so far off when new that I could not even move the shift lever. The dealer did a lame job of setting the bike up.

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None of us can find nuetral, it will get better in a couple of thousand miles, I set the lever with minimum freeplay, and click in to nuetral just before I stop, it will click right in with a light touch while you're still moving..... Have fun....

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Finding nuetral on a motorcycle while the engine is running and not rolling is difficult. To much drag on the clutch plates. It's difficult because the clutch lever only relieves enough pressure to allow shifting while you moving. The clutch is a wet clutch and different brands of oil can make shifting a little better or much worse. The best thing to do when coming to a stop, is find nuetral before you come to a complete stop. As you come to a stop while your still rolling, pull in the clutch find nuetral. Get ready to put you foot or feet down depending how tall you are. Get use to doing that and you woun't have as much trouble finding nuetral. I have had bikes (dirt bikes) that I had to kill the motor to get it into nuetral.

32

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My te 610 with 5800 miles has always had this symptom also.

But I have found a way around it.

At a stop with the clutch pulled in, put up pressure on the shifter, roll bike forward. 2 inches and mine snaps to neutral everytime.

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My 98 TE610 has this same issue. The solution is the same as others above have said - tap it into neutral while the bike's still moving.

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All this talk about tecnique is fine and well but it doesn't change the fact that the clucth cable is to week for the bike. There are many reports of early and untimely cable failure so do you're self a favor and get a heavier cable. It will make finding neutral easier and greatly increase the reliability.

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All this talk about tecnique is fine and well but it doesn't change the fact that the clucth cable is to week for the bike. There are many reports of early and untimely cable failure so do you're self a favor and get a heavier cable. It will make finding neutral easier and greatly increase the reliability.

Absolutely correct! I put a Barnett clutch cable from Halls. 100% improvement over stock. No rolling, etc. Goes right in! Do yourself a favor and get one!!

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