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xr650l best oil

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one more time what is the concensus? rotella, royal purple, mobil 1

or walmart multi visc. from expensive to cheap. oh and how often

between chgs.

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do a search and check FAQ oil threads are all over here and way over talked about

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The owners manual says every 1000 miles. IMO, that may be ok for synthetics but I'd change every 500 for conventional oil myself. Keep checking the level and the color and you will get a feel for when your oil starts to get really dark.

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Mobil 1 V-Twin formula plus filter change and screen check every 1,000 miles.

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snake...

...anaconda for wet conditions and rattler for dry. :p

20w-50 since i don't see <30F :)

wud go a bit thinner if i were to ride in the great white north.

dyno, synthetic or true synthetic...choose ur poison

i use "Castrol Syntec 20w-50 Full Synthetic"...it's not made from synthetic basestock(true synthetic) but highly refinned mineral oil like Mobil 1, etc...:banghead: reasonably priced at Wally World :banghead:

just change it after 500-1000miles IMO.

:foul:

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I run Rotella 10-40 in the winter and 20-50 in the summer. It works great and only cost $10 a gallon! :)

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Frequency of changes & filter changes IMO more important than the oil you use. Put well over 10,000 miles on my last bike 06 510 Husky using Rotella T with zero engine problems. Riding almost all off road with my L , I change oil every 400 & filter every 800?

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I argue that it doesn't really matter, except make sure you get 4-storke motorcycle oil. Regular automotive oil does not have the additives for a wet clutch.

My XR650R has 5 hard seasons and 12,000 miles on it. I've been running cheap Valvoline 4-Stroke motorcycle oil for it's entire life. I'm doing a valve job now, and my cylinder wall still has factory cross-hatching throughout the entire surface. I can't believe paying upwards of 4 times the amount for a premium brand would really be worth the price...

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Run whatever you want. It doesn't matter as long as you change it reasonably often.

In all of the oil threads on TT no one has ever posted that "oil XYZ destroyed my engine!" because oil XYZ doesn't destroy your engine nor will it wear out faster.

Your engine will last a really long time with the crappy $1 Walmart oil and a really long time with the $15/quart motorcycle specific stuff.

I use automotive Mobil 1 and have been for 15 years. Before that I used Castrol automotive oil. The world didn't end. In my 20 years of riding I never changed a clutch, even after my 1990 XL600 turned over 50,000 miles (a street bike but running on the shittiest of Walmart oils--the best a poor college student could afford).

Look around at the abused 1980's XR/XL600s on their original top ends still running around. The air cooled 600/650 is an incredibly stout design and will handle crappy oil and a long time between oil changes with a smile.

"O"

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You may have this backwards.

Some auto oil has friction modifiers (things to make oil more slippery) that do not react well with a wet clutch that requires friction to work well.

As long as auto oil does not include friction modifiers (as well as meets oil standards provided in your bikes manual) it should be ok to use in a motorcycle.

-Scott

I argue that it doesn't really matter, except make sure you get 4-storke motorcycle oil. Regular automotive oil does not have the additives for a wet clutch.

My XR650R has 5 hard seasons and 12,000 miles on it. I've been running cheap Valvoline 4-Stroke motorcycle oil for it's entire life. I'm doing a valve job now, and my cylinder wall still has factory cross-hatching throughout the entire surface. I can't believe paying upwards of 4 times the amount for a premium brand would really be worth the price...

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standard automotive Valvoline 10w40 = 3.49/qt at my local store.

Valvoline 4-stroke Motorcycle oil 10W-40 = 3.99/qt at same store.

For only 50 cents difference, why even bother trying standard oil. Also, I don't believe it's just the lack of friction modifiers in the oil. I've always heard motorcycle oil had additives for the clutch, and the shearing action of the transmission. Those are both things a car engine doesn't have to worry about.

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I agree that interval is key, the choice of brand is up to you, they will all protect your motor.

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