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08 wr250 setup

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have purchased new 08 wr250. just looking for any set up tips, or quirks that people have come across, chassis & engine etc...things to look out for

dont seem to be able to find a happy medium for gear selector position when standing on pegs with boots on etc...have moved selector & bent a little, any suggestions ?? different pegs??

have found suspension a little stiff, have all adjusters backed off, i weigh about 85kg with gear on. still running bike in, have about 200km on clock

any compression/damperning settings front & rear, number of clicks etc.. that are working or you recommend. fork oil levels ????

what is optium fuel mix ratio??? currently running 33 to 1, first tank at 25 to 1

have re-jetted with supplied race pipe, 380 main, 35 pilot, & supplied needle in middle clip position, any suggestions????

will be riding in a few poney express events, 4 hour endurance, just wondering on fuel economy,km per tank, how many km left when reserve on etc...???

bike fitted with michelin tyres, optium tyre pressures??

any suggestions for pipe guard/bash plate????

have noted rear brake lacks a little feel, & locks easily.

has anyone had any trouble with frt brake fluid?? on a steep decent lost solid brake lever feel. once cool, brake lever went back to normal. no problems since, no air in system, possible fluid boil????

hope i have not sounded to negative, i love this bike, extreamly light, very quick, good low down torque, excellent stopping power, easy to ride fast, still getting use to the 2 stroke adrenalin rush, dont really need to much more than this, wr300 would be interesting/scary !!!!! previous bike drz400, chalk & cheese, no comparison, heavy tractor!!!!

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This is from another post, but a good place too start!!

Here is a list of setup suggestions. I'm familiar with working on Huskys so if you need a hand feel free to let me know.

The plastic flap that hangs down from the airbox and goes between the rear tire and swingarm – it will cut two holes in the swingarm eventually. Put some type of a guard in place.

The steerer tube has a slot cut in it (for euro steering lock). This will let water and gas right into your bearings. Plug this.

Fork oil is really high, like 80mm. Drop to 110 to 140. I have found that it is real easy to bind the forks with the lower clamp bolts. I only torque them to 13 pounds.

Stock spark plug cap is garbage. Replace with a NGK before it causes problems.

I would replace the Mikuni with a Keihin PWK (might almost be too much on a 300 though)

Ignition cover has a gap at the bottom to drain water. I seal it and remove the cover often to let it air out.

Ignition is not the strongest so make sure coil ground it clean and tight.

Keep an eye on the swingarm, lower shock, and front wheel bearings. I have had good luck with the others. I shoot some grease in the zirks after every wet ride just so I never have to service them.

Loctite rear sprocket bolts.

Loctite the both lower engine mounts and check them regularly.

The kick starter can get crud in it (under the rubber cover) and then not pivot out. I just kept it oiled all the time and never had this problem.

Put anti seize on the bolts that hold the side panels to the sub frame and don’t tighter too much.

Get one of those “cable lubers” so you can force oil through the clutch cable every once in a while.

Anti seize both axels.

Safety wire the pins that hold the brake pads in.

I think the stock springs might be just right for you.

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I bought a bashplate and radiator guards for my 07 WR250 from R&D Husqvarna in NSW (www.husky.com.au). Really good to deal with and quick shipping over to NZ. The bashplate is a B&B Offroad one and the radiator guards are Forces ones (combination braces and guards - red anodised). Both are very solid and fit well and are Australian made.

We get a different bike from the americans so some of their comments won't apply. Did you get two chambers with it? I did with mine. One has a secondary air valve fitted (the street pipe) and the bike would barely run with this fitted. The other (the race pipe) has a conical restrictor welded into the inlet. I left it in for a couple of weeks and the bike was very rideable but had no top end power at all. The other day I dremelled the welds out and removed the restrictor and what a difference - the bike is now really quick. I'm going to gut the restrictors out of the street pipe at some point (I think I'll need to cut it open) and use it as a spare.

Can't help on the suspension settings yet except to say that there are quite a few review pdfs on www.husqvarnamotorcycles.com.au and some of them have their suspension setting recommendations listed (TBAM 07?). Pretty much the 07 is the same as the 08 so either should do. Should be a good starting point anyhow.

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G'day Wrhusky250, Thanks For Your Reply, Some Really Good Tips & Things To Look Out For. Thanks Again.

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G'day Paulsy, Thanks For You Reply, Yes I Did Recieve Two Pipes With Bike. Street Pipe Removed After 5 Minutes, Fitted Other Supplied Pipe & Re-jetted. Did Not Know About Restrictor In Race Pipe, Will Have To Check, As Bike Is Going Pretty Hard. When You Removed Restrictor Did You Have To Re-jet? What Jet Combination Are You Running & Needle Clip? How Long Did It Take To Grind Out Restrictor? What Fuel Oil Ratio Are You Running. Have You Changed Foot Pegs Or Had Any Trouble With Gear Change Selector With Boots On? Dont Seem To Be Able To Find Happy Medium, I Have Heard Of People Using After Market Swival Pegs But Dont Know Of Brand Etc. Will Give R & D Husky A Call, Thanks Jetranger......

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Maybe it isn't in the 08 race pipe. On the 07 it is welded into the inlet of the race pipe and reduces the diameter to 25mm. It is about 40mm long and is held in place by 3 welds. Took about 30 mins with a dremmel to remove it.

Pretty sure the 400 main was designed for the derestricted pipe as it was hopelessly rich before.

I'm still waiting for my jets (they were lost). Got the 60 needle and that is in the bike but I have the crazy lean 15 pilot in there still (no sign of the 35 yet). I think I'm going to try a 32.5 pilot - just got to order one in. The 15 pilot was actually okay with the restrictor in the pipe but now it causes a real surge as it moves onto the needle. Time it was gone.

Running TTS at 40:1.

Pegs are stock.

There is a lot of info on jetting in this forum. Some have given up and gone to a Keihin PWK and some have changed the stock 3.0 slide to a leaner 4.0. I'd rather have it a little rich (as long as it doesn't foul plugs) than try to get it super crisp. Seems the 32.5 pilot is well liked (hence my plan to put one in). I guess I still have most of this fun ahead of me.

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A 32.5 pilot should be okay.

I run a 30 in mine.

make sure to check the float height s/b 18-22 mm. many come too high from the factory and the bike pukes gas in corners and will not idle.

Maybe it isn't in the 08 race pipe. On the 07 it is welded into the inlet of the race pipe and reduces the diameter to 25mm. It is about 40mm long and is held in place by 3 welds. Took about 30 mins with a dremmel to remove it.

Pretty sure the 400 main was designed for the derestricted pipe as it was hopelessly rich before.

I'm still waiting for my jets (they were lost). Got the 60 needle and that is in the bike but I have the crazy lean 15 pilot in there still (no sign of the 35 yet). I think I'm going to try a 32.5 pilot - just got to order one in. The 15 pilot was actually okay with the restrictor in the pipe but now it causes a real surge as it moves onto the needle. Time it was gone.

Running TTS at 40:1.

Pegs are stock.

There is a lot of info on jetting in this forum. Some have given up and gone to a Keihin PWK and some have changed the stock 3.0 slide to a leaner 4.0. I'd rather have it a little rich (as long as it doesn't foul plugs) than try to get it super crisp. Seems the 32.5 pilot is well liked (hence my plan to put one in). I guess I still have most of this fun ahead of me.

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G'day Paulsy.i Have Spoken To Paul Feeney Group,importer For Husky Australia, Recommend Running 380 Main, 30 Pilot, Mixture Screw Two & A Half Turns Out, Needle No J86dj860 Second Clip From Top. Lowered Float Level About 2mm To Stop Fuel Overflow Down Steep Hills, Bike Going Quite Hard & Crisp. Will Go Better At 40 To 1. Have Manage To Foul Plug After Prolonged Idle With These Settings, Now Running Ngk B8egv. Still Running In At 33 To 1. Will Switch To 40 To 1 Next Tank Of Fuel, Have Been Using Castrol Tts As Well. May Still Be Room To Lean Through Lowering Needle. Dont Want To Lean To Far, No Lubrication, Motor Run Hot Etc...settings Can Also Depend On Altitude & Temperature. Just Wondering When You Ground Out Derestricter Did You Lose Any Torque Down Low. Will Remove My Pipe Next Week To Check Mine For Restricter & Let You Know. Very Happy With Torque & Power As Alot Of My Riding Is Single Trail, Tight Hilly Stuff, 2nd & 3rd Gear With Occasional Higher Gears. Will Walk & Torque Along In Second Gear In Tight Flat Stuff. Riding Tommorrow & Have 1st Poney Express In A Fortnight. Looking To Sought Things Out By Then. Need More Time On The Pegs. Keep You Posted, Jetranger

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G'day R Little, Thanks For Your Imput, I Have Lowered Float Level A Few Mm. I Will Let You Know How I Get On, Thanks Jetranger......

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G'day Paulsy.i Have Spoken To Paul Feeney Group,importer For Husky Australia, Recommend Running 380 Main, 30 Pilot, Mixture Screw Two & A Half Turns Out, Needle No J86dj860 Second Clip From Top. Lowered Float Level About 2mm To Stop Fuel Overflow Down Steep Hills, Bike Going Quite Hard & Crisp. Will Go Better At 40 To 1. Have Manage To Foul Plug After Prolonged Idle With These Settings, Now Running Ngk B8egv. Still Running In At 33 To 1. Will Switch To 40 To 1 Next Tank Of Fuel, Have Been Using Castrol Tts As Well. May Still Be Room To Lean Through Lowering Needle. Dont Want To Lean To Far, No Lubrication, Motor Run Hot Etc...settings Can Also Depend On Altitude & Temperature. Just Wondering When You Ground Out Derestricter Did You Lose Any Torque Down Low. Will Remove My Pipe Next Week To Check Mine For Restricter & Let You Know. Very Happy With Torque & Power As Alot Of My Riding Is Single Trail, Tight Hilly Stuff, 2nd & 3rd Gear With Occasional Higher Gears. Will Walk & Torque Along In Second Gear In Tight Flat Stuff. Riding Tommorrow & Have 1st Poney Express In A Fortnight. Looking To Sought Things Out By Then. Need More Time On The Pegs. Keep You Posted, Jetranger

Hard to say as the jetting is off. I'll see if I can find time to sort it out soon as I am now in possession of a collection of pilots, mains and needles (admittedly some of them were already in the carb). I would say you can run leaner jetting than me due to the hotter temps in Aus over NZ. It is generally in the low teens to high 20s here (Christchurch) at the moment with 16-22 being pretty normal.

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