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FAQ request...

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I would love it if someone would do a tutorial in the FAQ on how to do the daunting task of checking the valve clearances. I really want to make this my next learning experience but am a bit timid about taking off the valve cover and 'digging in'. If anyone has any insight or advice it would be much appreciated!

On that note, I've been paranoid since installing the MCCT a couple of weeks ago that I have it too loose or tight. Can I check this and adjust accordingly once I have the cam chain exposed? Thanks!

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Sorry ,don't have a faq ,but made some words about how to check cam timing.

I'm filling out on the bottom here ,what's specific for the valve check:

As long you have std/oem cams ,it's no probs checking timing.

There are faq's how to do it here, but I'll try the short version :

Pull off tank, remove hoses to the cylinder top cover (The black/dark gray one).

Remove the 3 bolts holding the cover. Take cover off ,You should loosen the nut holding your horn ,it makes it easuer to remove the top cover.

Remove the timing exam-bolt(Or what's it's called in english..).

It's on the enginetop, just below the cylinder on left sude of bike.

Remove the nut in the center of crank , left side of engine just underneath the tdc plug.

Put engine in neutral, get a 17mm wrench ,and carefully turn counter clockwise untill you can see a line in the tdc hole.

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Now , it's time to check the valves (Engine still at tdc)

Put a feeler gauge between the cam and the valve bucket

p><p>If a feeler of 0.10mm doesn

If it's on the tight side of the speck :

Find the gap between the valve bucket and the cam ,write it down

Do this to both valves at the same side.

Take out the cam ,by loosing up the mcct or removing acct , unbolt the 4 bolts on the cam holder (THERE ARE ONE LONGER THAN THE OTHERS,REMEMBER WHICH..), take out cam holder ,lift camchain over the cam sprocket , and remove the cam.

Use a magnet to pull out the valve bucket ,the shim is usually in the bottom of the bucket.

Use a digital caliper or something like it to measure(USE METRIC) the thickness of the shim.

Here's the math :

Todays gap (eg. 0.05mm)

Todays shim(eg. 2.80mm)

Target gap (intake 0.20mm /exhausts 0.30)

Here you must decrease the thickness of the shim by the distance wanted :

0.20mm(target) - 0.05mm(today)=0.15mm

Today's shim = 2.80mm - 0.15mm = 2.65mm new shim size.

Dump in new shims on top of the valves in the nice little hole on top of them ,install buckets ,cams and holders, mcct or acct.....

Turn the engine around by hand (17mm) a couple of times, recheck clearance,and if everything is ok , take a ride.

Now ,you should recheck the clearance ,but i prefer to listen for ugly sounds instead ,but I'm anal about valves and cams ,and check them much more often than I need to.

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I'm a newb to motorcycles in general. Bought the service manual and was able to check valve clearances and timing no problem. Pretty much the same process as fdog explained, but my valve clearances were in spec and didn't have to change shims. My only advice is to use a torque wrench and tighten the bolts to spec, especially with any bolt related to the engine.

I've also installed the mcct, and had no problems with that.

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Nice instructions and pictures! I bought a mcct also and have not installed yet because of the TDC issue some people have brought up and the possibility of the timing chain skipping a gear. One question, in order to do adjustment, do you have to have suzuki valve shim kit, and can you get that at the dealer? Thanks again, nice to the point write up!

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Nice instructions and pictures! I bought a mcct also and have not installed yet because of the TDC issue some people have brought up and the possibility of the timing chain skipping a gear. One question, in order to do adjustment, do you have to have suzuki valve shim kit, and can you get that at the dealer? Thanks again, nice to the point write up!

I bought a hotcams shim set ,but you can get single shims at your dealer.

Good luck:thumbsup:

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Wow! Awesome! Thanks for the tutorial. Amazing!

Regarding your q about checking the stretch of the cam chain, when your valve cover is off ,and the chain guide also is off ,it's easy to feel with a finger the stretch of the chain.

good luck :)

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Regarding your q about checking the stretch of the cam chain, when your valve cover is off ,and the chain guide also is off ,it's easy to feel with a finger the stretch of the chain.

good luck :)

Hmmm, well should I adjust the MCCT with the cover off to get the perfect tension? How do I know how tight it should be? Is it similar to the tension of the drive chain? Thanks!

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Hmmm, well should I adjust the MCCT with the cover off to get the perfect tension? How do I know how tight it should be? Is it similar to the tension of the drive chain? Thanks!

Hard to say , not too tight ,not too much slack.

I usually set mine so I can push it down a couple of millimeters with my fingers.

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and more thanks for the valve-check guide!

but please tell me there are only 2 valves to check, 1 intake and 1 exhaust.

..

for all of you born-again noob riders like me who dug out the 15 year old fan-style feeler gauge set to check your valve clearance, make sure the .025mm gauge doesn't have the .01mm gauge stuck to it, making a .035mm... once I discovered that and my clearance was good, I forgot all about looking for 2 more valves.

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and more thanks for the valve-check guide!

but please tell me there are only 2 valves to check, 1 intake and 1 exhaust.

..

for all of you born-again noob riders like me who dug out the 15 year old fan-style feeler gauge set to check your valve clearance, make sure the .025mm gauge doesn't have the .01mm gauge stuck to it, making a .035mm... once I discovered that and my clearance was good, I forgot all about looking for 2 more valves.

2 on each side (4 valves total) he-he:thumbsup:

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wow, thanks - I'd convinced myself that there were only the 2. :)

but i studied the manual carefully like I should have in the first place and saw a pic showing both sets of lobes.

another tip for old noobs like me - don't get all self righteous and sloppy when you finally get a Clymer manual after 4k miles.

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Can we reuse the gasket? And how much torque on the cover bolts? Thanks

you can reuse gasket.Valvecover is finger tight. Be careful not to use too much force on these , this costed me a new top:foul:

The cover is attached to the cam journals ,and this isn't a part awailable.

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How did you guys manage to fit your torque wrench in under the frame when torquing everything back down?? I have some smaller T-wrenches but still couldn't clear it using 3/8 drive allen socket's. What golden tool should I be using for this??

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Can we reuse the gasket? And how much torque on the cover bolts? Thanks

When you remove your valve cover you will see where the factory sealed it up with silicone gasket material on the sides of the valve cover gasket...most people recommend cleaning the old off and resealing with fresh when you close it back up....otherwise it may seep.

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How did you guys manage to fit your torque wrench in under the frame when torquing everything back down?? I have some smaller T-wrenches but still couldn't clear it using 3/8 drive allen socket's. What golden tool should I be using for this??

I used an L allen wrench, a box end wrench over the end of it, and some common sense not to over tighten it yet be sure it is tight enough. When I removed the screws and bolts I kind of got the feel for how tight it was and tried to duplicate it...my torque wrench wouldn't fit in there either. Just be sure to tighten them down in a crisscrosss pattern and a little at a time so they are evenly tightened and keep the screws and cam covers together so they go back in the same spot they came out of. I hope this helps.

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