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Front brake XR650R-- 94 CR250 any better ??? HELP !!!

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I have a line on a front end from a '94 cr250.

anyone know if that bike had a good, or great, front brake?

I can get the whole front end... tire to brake lever... cheap.

My '06 XR650R front brake is "unacceptable" for a dual sport.

Thanks!

edit.. and it uses the same disc ! and bearings !

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It might use the same master cylinder and caliper as well. It should be more or less the same braking system. I would not expect much difference.

What is wrong with the XR650R front brake? About the only thing to do is an oversize rotor. It dumps heat faster and can apply more force to the wheel. No matter what don't expect it to preform like a sport bike. Those have two big discs and a lot more than two pistons pressing on the pads.

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The brake line is the problem with the R.

Use a good quality braided or a late model XR600.

It's that or you've got a warped disc,is there any modulation/pulsing when brake is applied?

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1.) I have a line on a front end from a '94 cr250. anyone know if that bike had a good, or great, front brake?

2.) I can get the whole front end... tire to brake lever... cheap. My '06 XR650R front brake is "unacceptable" for a dual sport.

1.) The '92-96 CR250 front brake works quite well.

2.) What exactly do you expect from it?

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+1 on the braided line they're the best bang for the buck.You could even go with a 2001 cr250 caliper it has hollowed out aluminum pistons which will dissipate heat better than the 90's CR's.I did this swap to my 96' Cr250 along with Steel braided line and a Braking Wave rotor (Standard size) and it nearly stops as good as a KTM.

I found the used Caliper on Eb*y for around 20 bones.

Good Luck!

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Im always amazed at people complaining about front brakes. I can easly lock up the front brake on my 600 in the dirt. and if i grab them hard enough on the street, im sure i could get the rear end off the ground. what more do you want. apply the brake with your pinky finger :). Its not like the front brake on my 84 harley, that thing will barely hold the bike on an incline not to mention slow it down.

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Im always amazed at people complaining about front brakes. I can easly lock up the front brake on my 600 in the dirt. and if i grab them hard enough on the street, im sure i could get the rear end off the ground. what more do you want. apply the brake with your pinky finger :). Its not like the front brake on my 84 harley, that thing will barely hold the bike on an incline not to mention slow it down.

I have to agree with you, to a point. For normal riding in the dirt, the weight of the BRP is a bigger detriment to braking distance than the ability of the caliper to clamp the rotor adequately. I can easily out brake the traction most times in the dirt, and I usually have enough moderate paced riding for the rotor to cool between the times I really need to use it hard. However, I could see wanting a better front brake for racing or especially for street riding where the rotor would get hot and the front tire gets a lot of traction.

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The front brake on my xr650r will NOT let me do a "stoppie" at any speed.

I need to stop NOW to avoid a collision on the street. Not racing, just trying to avoid Grandma.

My 87 XL600R had a better front brake. My 83 XL200R has better {drum} front brakes !!!

I can crush the lever down to the bar, and it still takes a while to stop.

I vacuum bled it, and it didn't get much better.

There is a chance I still have a little air in it, ( after reading many posts about this on TT ) , maybe at the banjo bolt on top.

I'm going to try putting the caliper up in the rafters of the garage, and vacuum bleed it again. Hopefully, this will make all the bubbles go 'up'.

I'll let you guys know if it did anything.

And THANKS to all of you.. you saved me an hour each way, and $140 !

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It may be better to put that $140 toward a big brake upgrade. The rub is that big brakes can sometimes be touchy in the dirt.

I don't think your problem is the brake design; I think it's either air or something to do with the pads/rotor. A little contamination can go a long way to reducing braking effectiveness.

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EX dirty bike dude you definitely have air in there from the sounds of it.

The caliper in the rafters thing is new to me.

Just zip tye the front brake lever closed to the bars or a broom handle after you bleed it again overnight,but with the master cylinder at the highest point,that should help.

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OK, I finally got to work on it.

Put the caliper up in the air, tied to a rafter in the garage.

put something a little thinner than a disc in the pads.

pumped the pads out, then pushed 'em back all the way. got a few tiny bubbles to come up in the master cyl. :thumbsup:

did it 6 or 7 times, till I was sure I had no more.

took the bike out, tried to do a "stoppy" in 1st gear. locked the front wheel, and it slid on the street. oops.

I'm still buying a beter brake line, I swear I can see the stock line getting fatter when I crush the lever.

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