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Clutch bite point

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Just picked up ANOTHER drz to add to my collection it’s a yellow 2003 drz s with 7500miles on the clock.

New battery

New Pirelli tyres

New chain

I did an oil change as soon as I got it home, still need to do the 3x3 air mod and jet’s (hopefully next weekend).

The Mrs Did not even moan, infact she did not even say anything.:)

Holy cow the more I think about the last sentence the more I am realising how deep in the SH*T I must be :p:banghead::foul:

front.jpgrsideback.jpgrside.jpglside.jpg

Anyway the main reason for the post

The bite point on the clutch is almost instantaneous, can it be adjusted to another point within the pull of the lever, or is the clutch on the way out :banghead:

one more thing.

On the SM we leave the fuel on all the time as we can’t turn it off!

With the S can it be left in the on position or should it be turned to the off position? If feasible I would prefer to just leave it on, is that ok?

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I dont know about the S in the UK.. but my S had the same petcock as my Super-moto does. maybe that one has been changed.. is there a vacuum line? pull the fuel line with the bike off... and the petcock on... is fuel pouring out? if so.. put it on OFF :)

Sweet looking bike mate!

on edit.. i know you can adjust the clutch cable a little bit. but im no expert.

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If the fuel valve is ON, RES, OFF you have to use OFF. If the fuel valve is ON, RES, PRI then leave it ON.

Some of the clutches are like that. You might be able to adjust it some but it probably will remain touchy to where the bite is as soon as you release the clutch lever. Mine is like that. You get use to it. I have to re-learn every time I switch bikes.

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The clutch itself should be fine, at most you might need to replace the cable. I havn't looked but with most bikes the top by the handle bar is a fine adjust and the bottom where it attaches to the case is the coarse adjuster. So if you can't get it into a place you like just by the handle bar adjuster check the other one

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My S had the same thing going on with the clutch "bite" point, especially compared to my SM. I couldn't adjust it out. Replacing the clutch cable solved the problem.

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I adjust the clutch on all my bikes so that the friction point is very close to the bar. I found that I have more control ths way and after a long day my hand isn't as tired as when the friction point was near the end of lever travel.

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can I do ny harm adjusting the clutch, may sound like a stupid question but I have close to zero knowledge of mechanics.:)

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can I do ny harm adjusting the clutch, may sound like a stupid question but I have close to zero knowledge of mechanics.:banghead:

You can play with the adjustment at the perch or about 6 inches down the line and it won't hurt anything. I'd make small adjustments so you can keep track to put it back if need be. Just remember that you have to have the bike running to test where it engages, the clutch doesn't work correctly when the bike is turned off......:)

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Yes you can damage the clutch with adjustment. You always want to have at least some free play in the cable when the lever is released. If the cable is too tight, the clutch will not engage all the way, slip, wear, & overheat. As a minimum you want to have about 3mm of movement at the far end of the clutch lever before the cable pulls tight. You can easily feel the free play as you pull the lever with your fingers where it starts to pull tight. If in doubt, have someone knowledgeable look at it.

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You can play with the adjustment at the perch or about 6 inches down the line and it won't hurt anything. I'd make small adjustments so you can keep track to put it back if need be. Just remember that you have to have the bike running to test where it engages, the clutch doesn't work correctly when the bike is turned off......:)
Yes you can damage the clutch with adjustment. You always want to have at least some free play in the cable when the lever is released. If the cable is too tight, the clutch will not engage all the way, slip, wear, & overheat. As a minimum you want to have about 3mm of movement at the far end of the clutch lever before the cable pulls tight. You can easily feel the free play as you pull the lever with your fingers where it starts to pull tight. If in doubt, have someone knowledgeable look at it.

Sorry if I mislead there, that is why I suggested small movements so it wasn't a drastic change from loose to overly tight. I had to play with my adjustment to get it right but it was more trial and error than anything for me, small adjustments and test.....

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So what actualy happens if you are lazy or forgetfull and leave the tap in the on position, anything bad?

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So what actualy happens if you are lazy or forgetfull and leave the tap in the on position, anything bad?

Worst case, you could flood your engine case with gasoline, diluting your oil, and causing potentially major problems.

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necky - UK bikes that have manual OFF fuel valves usually also have a high fuel level over-flow drain in the carb to protect from engine flooding. You should check for that. If there is a hose off the bottom of the carb that exits under the bike, that is probably a high fuel level drain hose. If there is nipple but no hose on it, then probably that is a manual float bowl drain, not a high level drain.

You can test it with a piece of hose that you can attach to the nipple on the bottom of the bowl. Blow air into the hose with your mouth. If it is open, it is a high fuel level drain. If it is not open, it is a manual bowl drain. High fuel level drain is what you want.

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