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Riding the Americas on a DR650 - know I need a jet kit but what else


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Hi All,

I am riding a DR650 from Alaska to Argentina (www.alaska2argentina.co.uk). A friend of mine is coming over from the UK and I thought I would get him to bring out some parts for me as I don't have a postal address on the road and it seems most countries don't have DR650s.

I have been told I need a jet kit, and I think I should change the chain and sprocket as I have done 14,000 miles.

I am trying to panic buy because he would be coming over in a week and a half and I need to order the stuff.

Also is the only place I can get a centre stand for the DR650 the german company?

Thanks,

Annette

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well, going from Alaska to Argentina you will have the opportunity to pass by both kientech & procycle in Oregon either one of these are very respected on this forum & are very DR knowledgeable. I have ordered from both of them & was very satisfied with the service in every case.

if you can make it that far you should be able to get anything you need right there on the spot, saving you shipping & your friend from hauling extra (heavy) stuff.

you can PM procycle on this site & ask what he has available, Jeff is very helpful!

Jesse @ kientech is also very helpful but is very busy most of the time & is not available to contact on this forum.

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Actually I am already in El Salvador and have done over 14,000 miles on my DR650 which is why I need a new chain etc.

But I might try ordering from procycle and having it delivered somewhere down here (just don't know where yet).

You can follow my progress on my website www.alaska2argentina.com

I write most days - just because I end up doing so much. It is nice to know if people read it as writing isn't my strong point.

Cheers,

Annette

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I'm sorry I missed your passing through! you look like fun to ride with.

I did put up a guy from Australia for a few days while his bike (Honda 600RR) was getting new fork seals at a local shop.

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I have been told I need a jet kit, and I think I should change the chain and sprocket as I have done 14,000 miles.

Why would you need a jet kit NOW? For high altitude, the stock jetting may be about right. It's a bit lean for sea level.

To cover a wide range of altitudes, get an extended fuel screw and Uni air filter, then jet for your lowest altitude. Open up the intake by removing the snorkel and drilling some holes in the top of your airbox, if it hasn't been opened up yet. Then put electrical tape over them. The higher in altitude you go, the more holes you un-tape to let in more air and go leaner. Adjust the fuel screw accordingly. If you need to flow even more air for a short time, take the lid off the airbox.

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Hi Annette,

I rode my DR650SE from Australia back to the UK, yes the DR will loose power at high altitude, the highest I took it was around 4,700m. But mine was totally stock and didn't adjust the carbs.

Re the centre stand, I also didn't have one. What I did was buy a cheap, collapsible walking stick (in sections) from a charity shop and put that under the right footpeg while the side stand is down to get the rear wheel off the ground. You can also put it under the oil cooler protection bars (need to make the walking stick a bit higher) to get the front wheel off.

I would also recommend fitting some heated grips in case you haven't got some already. It does get a bit Chile down there...

Mike

(MikeS off HU)

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Actually I am already in El Salvador and have done over 14,000 miles on my DR650 which is why I need a new chain etc.

But I might try ordering from procycle and having it delivered somewhere down here (just don't know where yet).

You can follow my progress on my website www.alaska2argentina.com

Cheers,

Annette

If you have any connections at the British Embassy, see if someone there can set up a way to bring in your parts without passing Aduana. No idea on

Salvador import policies now but perhaps your embassy can help out and avoid the hassle and extortion you may face at the hands of petty bureaucrats with too much power. Have them send along some "critical" medicine in the package? ?

Re-read Kommando's post. This is how I would handle the Altitude/Jetting issues. DO get The Fuel/Air screw ..... it will help the bike everywhere. It will save fuel up high and help the bike idle and start easier. When you get up high .... open her up and let her breathe. Keep it closed up at Sea level

and adjust the easy to reach fuel/air screw and re-set idle.

I would replace your spark plugs too ... and carry a spare countershaft sprocket which you can put on after about 8,000 miles or so on your new chain and sprockets. Small, easy to carry. Starting with a new, high quality chain and sprockets, you will make Ushuaia and back .... no problem.

The stock air filter is OK but the Twin-Air and UNI filter flow air better and will have the bike run a bit better up high. Oil filter lightly and Grease the lip of the filter upon installation. Clean air box interior throughly.

Good luck

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Thanks for the advice. The fuel screw and drilling holes sounds a bit complicated but I will look into it.

Any recommendations for the chain and sprocket?

Mike - my favourite Hubber. Didn't realise that you had already done your trip and ridden from Australia when I am not even half way through mine. Did you have any difficulties getting the DR650 into the UK?

Thanks,

Annette

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You don't really need to drill holes if you don't want to .... just take off side cover to air box when you feel a loss of power at high altitude. (probably over 3000 meters) That should do it. Stock settings should be OK until then.

OEM Suzuki sprockets are IMO, the best, longest lasting and highest quality sprockets you can get. They are expensive. Next in line that are commonly available would be JT (Thailand). I'm running them now on my bike. Cheap and cheerful, last well.

DID X-ring is the way forward on the chain.

DID 525 VM-2 X-ring chain.

http://www.moto-chains.com/site/898528/product/d525vm

http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=64611-15D01&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com

http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=27511-31D00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com

If you browse around you can find cheaper prices but both these stores are pretty good.

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/103755/did-525-vm2-gold-xring-sealed-chain.html

Another good source for everything DR650:

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.htm

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Man, I wish I was back over in SA rather than being back behind a desk again...

Don't know anything about messing with the carbs on the DR unfortunately, it will only really make a difference at really high altitudes and even then, thats only really likely to be in Bolivia say as you get to around 5,000m. The KLR I was with was unmodded and had no bother at all. Mine did struggle a bit above 3,500m but still made it.

re the chain, just make sure you clean/lube the new one every other day if you're doing long distances. I think kerosene is better for cleaning as it also lubricates a bit and doesn't destroy the o-rings like petrol probably would. I got around 30,000kms out of mine before the chain started to go. Remember the moto 'Buy what ever you can, when you can', as no doubt you'll run out of chain lube like I did in SE Asia and then find you can't buy decent lube anywhere!

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/europe/stolen-blue-white-suzuki-dr650se-39323

This being Scotland, my lovely DR was pinched only about 4 weeks after getting home. Still, at least I got insurance for it. Registering it is a whole subject in itself, just PM/email me if you plan to do this and will outline what the process was. Basically, it cost me about £600 in total and was a right pain in the ass to do, particularly the SVA test.

Have fun!

Thanks for the advice. The fuel screw and drilling holes sounds a bit complicated but I will look into it.

Any recommendations for the chain and sprocket?

Mike - my favourite Hubber. Didn't realise that you had already done your trip and ridden from Australia when I am not even half way through mine. Did you have any difficulties getting the DR650 into the UK?

Thanks,

Annette

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understand this board is focused on day-use riders.

that's NOT your focus.

these guys are interested in making the DR a dirt bike,

not an adv touring bike.

go to the long haul boards:

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/tech/suzuki/dr650prep

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135295

http://verlenelson.com/DR650/

you're going to see alot of elevation changes and poor fuel quality.

i'd actaully say no on the jet kit as it yields more power but also narrows the range of optimum jetting. many people have horry stories of jetting gone bad. you'll be jetting for a fixed elevation but that's not your desire.

i'd just buy an ajustable fuel (pilot jet adjustments) screw, iridium plugs (to help spark even the worst fuel mixture), 14 tooth front sprocket, and shim the needle up with one washer. use the snorkle to make easy carb adjustments. at lower elevations leave the snorkle in (leaning effect) to match air with the fuel used in the carb. at high elevation pull the snorkle to get all the possible air to the rich running carb.

i have my airbox stock (pulled snorkle), stock jets, iridium plugs and shimmed the needle with 2 washers. when i ride above 9000ft the bike is running way to rich. i also unbolt the lower rear muffler darin bolt to help it flow. i can't imagine running an bigger jets even with the airbox completely cut open. at a certain point no more air can be added to an over rich carb.

at lower altitudes it runs great & then towards sea level the snorkle goes back in as does the muffler bolt to plug up the motor some and help it from running too lean(hot). when available i run premium at sea-level. above 3000ft regular is good to go.

this works great for me. sure i might not get that hardest of hit with a full jetted motor but it's usefull throughout a wide range & that what advtouring is all about.

in addition i'd add: skid plate & engine guards, corbin seat, ims tanks, bars/guards, small shield, sidewinder sporckets & chain

http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/

http://www.kientech.com/

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.htm

http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Suzuki/For%20Suzuki%20DRs.htm

http://www.motorcycleproducts.org/Engine_Guards/guards-main-frameset.htm

here's my adv setup:

pic019n.jpg

i have protaper bars, maier guards, ken dean DS mirrors, spider grips, braided brake line, ebc brake pads, ebay BBQ rear rack, stock tailamp (the smaller one people switch to puts out less light, i want all the brake i can have and also use a higher-output 2357LL bulb with a brake flasher)

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acually sidewinder sprockets are the best.

http://sidewindersprockets.com/

oem is just sourced mid-grade stuff.

You don't really need to drill holes if you don't want to .... just take off side cover to air box when you feel a loss of power at high altitude. (probably over 3000 meters) That should do it. Stock settings should be OK until then.

OEM Suzuki sprockets are IMO, the best, longest lasting and highest quality sprockets you can get. They are expensive. Next in line that are commonly available would be JT (Thailand). I'm running them now on my bike. Cheap and cheerful, last well.

DID X-ring is the way forward on the chain.

DID 525 VM-2 X-ring chain.

http://www.moto-chains.com/site/898528/product/d525vm

http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=64611-15D01&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com

http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts.cfm?SearchString=27511-31D00&adv=5&kw=fiche.ronayers.com

If you browse around you can find cheaper prices but both these stores are pretty good.

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/103755/did-525-vm2-gold-xring-sealed-chain.html

Another good source for everything DR650:

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.htm

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understand this board is focused on day-use riders.

that's NOT your focus.

these guys are interested in making the DR a dirt bike,

not an adv touring bike.

go to the long haul boards:

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/tech/suzuki/dr650prep

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135295

http://verlenelson.com/DR650/

Is that the famous Verle Nelson?? :foul: Welcome!

Actually Annette has been on HU since about 2005. She is not new. Look her up there, same screen name. ?

She had a F650 but switched to a DR some where along the line. Her blog is impossible to decipher ..... on purpose? (all out of order)

you're going to see alot of elevation changes and poor fuel quality.

i'd actually say no on the jet kit as it yields more power but also narrows the range of optimum jetting.

many people have horry stories of jetting gone bad. you'll be jetting for a fixed elevation but that's not your desire.

i'd just buy an ajustable fuel (pilot jet adjustments) screw, iridium plugs (to help spark even the worst fuel mixture),

14 tooth front sprocket, and shim the needle up with one washer. use the snorkle to make easy carb adjustments. at lower

elevations leave the snorkle in (leaning effect) to match air with the fuel used in the carb. at high elevation pull the snorkle

to get all the possible air to the rich running carb.

I agree. I suggested removing the air box cover at high elevation ....

which will give you even more air so rare over 10,000 ft. The snorkle helps for sure but once the cover comes off you can feel a

definite change. Overwise spot on advice. Leave the stock jetting. The Fuel/Air screw is a God send and I love

Iridium plugs too. Last longer will nearly burn Kerosene! :banghead:

in addition i'd add: skid plate & engine guards, corbin seat, ims tanks, bars/guards, small shield, sidewinder

sporckets & chain

Annette is in El Salvador NOW and has decided against the Corbin but has some sort of red custom seat on there.:banghead:

See pics on her web site. She has no bark busters (mistake, IMO), has a shield and IMS tank, needs sprockets and chain.

?

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acually sidewinder sprockets are the best.

http://sidewindersprockets.com/

oem is just sourced mid-grade stuff.

What kind of mileage have you done with these latest Titanium ll Sidewinder sprockets?

Ask Krause where the stuff is made and if he supervises any of the production and see what answers you get.

OEM are sourced ..... of course .... as are most parts on the DR,

but the OEM sprockets are MADE IN JAPAN. Big difference. I've gotten

HUGE miles on Suzuki OEM sprockets in very tough conditions on several

bikes, including lots of South of the Border miles off road. ?

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Thanks everyone for your advice. I am off to take the bike to a couple of shops tomorrow morning. I went to a meetup of a bunch of bikers including one person who had a DR650 and works in a bike shop so I am going to buy some hand guards (after already breaking my clutch). Also realised that I will need to get tyres sooner than Panama so probably going to try and sort those out.

She had a F650 but switched to a DR some where along the line. Her blog is impossible to decipher ..... on purpose? (all out of order)

Huh! How can my blog be all out of order when it is all dated? Maybe it is because I was originally going to go December 2006 but then had to put my trip on hold to earn some more money when my work wouldn't give me a sabbitical and I decided that I didn't want to take my '94 Funduro because it kept on breaking down all the time. Then it was stolen anyway.

Also I do have a corbin seat http://argentina2alaska.co.uk/blog/?p=484

This being Scotland, my lovely DR was pinched only about 4 weeks after getting home. Still, at least I got insurance for it.

Bugger about getting your bike stolen. Shouldn't it show up somewhere seeing as how they don't sell DR650's over there. I have only seen one in London.

Hey Sunflower, when you pass by Costa Rica give me Call 24305461, I will invite you a coffee.

Definitely keen to meet up with other bikers. It is great being shown places by the locals. Thanks!

i have my airbox stock (pulled snorkle), stock jets, iridium plugs and shimmed the needle with 2 washers. when i ride above 9000ft the bike is running way to rich. i also unbolt the lower rear muffler darin bolt to help it flow. i can't imagine running an bigger jets even with the airbox completely cut open. at a certain point no more air can be added to an over rich carb.

Thanks for the advice. I think I am going to have to get someone at the bike shop to help me figure out what it means though. Those plugs sound good.

Sorry that I haven't done the quoting correctly. When I clicked on multiquote nothing happened.

Cheers,

Annette

Here are a couple pictures of my baby. Ok, I don't know how to paste the photos in.

http://www.argentina2alaska.co.uk/pictures/2008-12-08-03.jpg

http://www.argentina2alaska.co.uk/pictures/2008-12-08-01.jpg

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Huh! How can my blog be all out of order when it is all dated? Maybe it is because I was originally going to go December 2006 but then had to put my trip on hold to earn some more money when my work wouldn't give me a sabbitical and I decided that I didn't want to take my '94 Funduro because it kept on breaking down all the time. Then it was stolen anyway.

Sorry! I am not good at blogs ? I was looking on the right side of your page at the "Previous Posts" heading. I figured that would all be in cronological order, but it's not.

http://argentina2alaska.co.uk/blog/?p=484

But I noticed once I opened a page and then advanced or went back, then it was in order.:banghead: The Previous Posts column is confusing as it jumps all around.

BTW, for some reason, a lot of your pics on ADV are scrambled??

I have no idea about this, but something seems not right. Pics are there but not focused. I'm sure your originals are fine ...( hope so anyway.)

On ADV you mention you thought your handle bars were "damaged" when you fell and broke your $7 clutch lever. Be careful here.

Remember, your DR handle bars are rubber mounted. In a fall they can be "tweaked" a bit. Also, very typical in a fall is for the fork tubes to be slightly tweaked within the triple clamps. They are NOT bent, they've just shifted a tiny bit. When you ride the bike and the bars seem to be headed a bit to left or right, not straight. This is common. Is this what is happening on your bike? Don't worry ... nothing is wrong, you don't need new bars, NOTHING is bent .... just seems that way.

Many uninformed believe their handlebars are bent. NOT SO. Don't try to straighten them and don't let that mechanic do it. It is very simple to get the bars back in alignment. I normally just tap the front wheel against a post.

To allow fork tubes to straighten.

Also, if the rubber mounting handlebar set up if off center, you can simply turn bar all the way right or left (which ever way is needed) and then push the bar a bit against the stop. Now go back to center and see if it's better. Did you go the wrong way? Then go the other way and play with it until it is straight. :banghead:

Messing with these two variables will put your bike straight. It is very very hard to bend handlebars. Takes a pretty good crash to do so.

I meant to include on other Suzuki source for cheap OEM parts. Babbit's

http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/

Stock rear Suzuki Sprocket for DR (42T) is : $33.42

Countershaft Sprocket (15T) : $18.49

I thought the OEM stuff was more but by my reckoning, the Babbit's price is pretty good! Cheaper than even lower quality sprockets like JT, SunStar or

PBI .... ALL inferior to stock sprockets, IMO.

At your mileage I would also change out your rubber Cush Drive "Absorbers" spacers. These DO wear out! Mine were gone at 15K miles.

New ones will Smooth out your ride, better shifting, and protects the DR's one weak link .... the Transmission from shock. A good thing. Worth the money, IMO.

Here is the part number, there are six of this little guys, well worth it!

6 of 64651-32E00 - ABSORBER, REAR HUB SHOCK @ $4.20ea.

Good travels! :foul:

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