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I got a call yesterday that my shock is done. I had a guy who used to do suspension work for off road race teams (I believe also worked for Pro Circuit for a few years!?) change the oil and, based on his opinion of the shock and my complaint of the dampening, made some changes in the valving- shimstacks or something.

He said the shock valving couldnt be changed much short of replacing it. Also told me the technology is from the mid 70's and 80's. It does not have a very modern piston system.

Anyway, he told me (like most suspensions out of the factorys door) the oil was junk- very foamy! Foamy oil does not work well in any valving. He said I should expect to notice a difference just from the oil change. The valving change probabaly wont be much noticable but if it is, it'll be in the "high speed" action.

To damn bad theirs still so much snow around here! Im excited to try it out! In a week or 2 Ill be hitting the dirt roads, but wont be able to see how it manages on the rough stuff.

You guys/gals might want to put a suspension oil change on your spring maint list. Like an engine, suspensions do "break in" too and the oil also comes out ugly looking.

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the oil also comes out ugly looking.

I changed mine at about 1200 miles and it was near black. I also changed some of the shims and got my rebound so it doesn't buck me off. I changed my fork oil today, using Yamaha S1 instead of 01. I also put in a shim to change the spring rate. I could feel a difference on the ride home.

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jason, keep us posted after you have been for a ride, the rear shock is my only real complaint on my wr now, talking to my suspension guy he says they seem to have quite a hard spring rate he's thinking softer spring [ any one know if you can get one] and stiffing it up a little in the shimming. sounds like I better get him to change the oil pronto tho.

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I changed mine at about 1200 miles and it was near black. I also changed some of the shims and got my rebound so it doesn't buck me off. I changed my fork oil today, using Yamaha S1 instead of 01. I also put in a shim to change the spring rate. I could feel a difference on the ride home.

Awesome. Id be so interested in a comarison on your shim change to mine. Im just not so sure what he did on mine in detail. Ill ask him when I get it. When you say "so it dosent buck me off", Is that the resault of the change, or just the goal? Did you notice smoother/better action?

My forks are next!:)

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jason, keep us posted after you have been for a ride, the rear shock is my only real complaint on my wr now, talking to my suspension guy he says they seem to have quite a hard spring rate he's thinking softer spring [ any one know if you can get one] and stiffing it up a little in the shimming. sounds like I better get him to change the oil pronto tho.

Yes, they have a short, stiff spring. The guy I used also suggested possibly changing the spring rate and that would change how the valving would react. Im going to try what he did first. Maybe next year on the spring.:)

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Awesome. Id be so interested in a comarison on your shim change to mine. Im just not so sure what he did on mine in detail. Ill ask him when I get it. When you say "so it dosent buck me off", Is that the resault of the change, or just the goal? Did you notice snoother/better action?

My forks are next!:)

When I did the shock I put in shock oil that was way too thick. I had compression problems so I put a little lighter oil in. It feels better now. I am going to go try it on some whoops here in a little bit. The rebound has not kicked back like it used to.

The spring rate I figure is due to the possibility of having two passengers. The shock spring rate is nearly twice as much on the WRR as my WRF. The piston on the WRR is also 2mm bigger than the piston (in the shock)on the WRF though. I will get it sorted out.

I went up the mountain the other night and hit some good snow whoops. It felt pretty good. I will give you a good ride report when I get back.

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Best way to change the oil? Take the shock out, drain and fill? Service Manual seem pretty clear? (yeah I am lazy, manual is in the garage and I am watching the DVR'd supercross race) :)

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Best way to change the oil? Take the shock out, drain and fill? Service Manual seem pretty clear? (yeah I am lazy, manual is in the garage and I am watching the DVR'd supercross race) :)

Yeah, I don't think it's that easy. Not even sure if the manual covers it. I got some nasty looking oil out of the shock. I did the forks yesterday and it was still pretty clean.

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No I dont believe the manual covers it because of the compressed nitrogen chamber. Also I believe something has to be ground off to get it apart. The nitrogen does have to be released and repressurized after the oil gets changed.

Unless you've done it before, I'd leave it to someone who has experiance.

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Yikes! Sounds like a job for a suspension guy for sure....I mean I have changed out springs before, but never rebuilt a rear shock as this sounds like you have to do...and as long as you have to do all that work you might as well make it right since you have it all tore apart anyway right?

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No I dont believe the manual covers it because of the compressed nitrogen chamber. Also I believe something has to be ground off to get it apart. The nitrogen does have to be released and repressurized after the oil gets changed.

Unless you've done it before, I'd leave it to someone who has experiance.

This shock was my first attempt. With most shocks the nut is staked to the shaft (from what I have read in the suspension forum.) This one wasn't staked. Nothing needed to be ground off on this one. When I did mine I put a schrader valve in to recharge the nitrogen. When I changed to a lighter shock oil I had the shock off and back on in a little over an hour and 1/2.

I think you can handle it Vdub.

I started a thread on it last year sometime. The pictures are probably gone but I think I could find them again for you.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=711206&highlight=

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Thanks, I recall that post, it does look within my means and getting rid of the rebound would be nice...you were right the pictures are missing, but it could get what you mean from the text. Might take it on this summer or something...

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This shock was my first attempt. With most shocks the nut is staked to the shaft (from what I have read in the suspension forum.) This one wasn't staked. Nothing needed to be ground off on this one. When I did mine I put a schrader valve in to recharge the nitrogen. When I changed to a lighter shock oil I had the shock off and back on in a little over an hour and 1/2.

I think you can handle it Vdub.

I started a thread on it last year sometime. The pictures are probably gone but I think I could find them again for you.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=711206&highlight=

I just read your write- up. I still do not exactly understand how you released the nitrogen and got to the piston/valve assembly- without the pic. Thats ok, I have kind-of an idea in my mind and when I get mine back tomorrow Ill take a look at it. My WRF had to be ground to get to it so I assumed this one would be too.

I hope mine will come with a schrader valve too. So why did you change the oil to a lighter one? Did you go back to stock? I was going to go to the next heavier weight, but several people advised me not to. Said it would slow the dampening down, but remove functionallity of the shock or something.

So how do you like your suspension now after changing the dampening and going back to the lighter oil?

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I just read your write- up. I still do not exactly understand how you released the nitrogen and got to the piston/valve assembly- without the pic.

The pictures are on the laptop. The laptop died, I will try to get something for you.

My WRF had to be ground to get to it so I assumed this one would be too.

Yes the one on my WR250 two stroke was ground down, I doubt anything has been done to my WRF shock. The WR250 had a racetech valve in it and I was trying to see if it would fit in the WRR. The WR250 had a 2mm smaller piston in it.

I hope mine will come with a schrader valve too. So why did you change the oil to a lighter one? Did you go back to stock?

My friend who does the suspension work said to jack the pressure up to 150 psi when I recharged it. I have about 125 in there right now. With the heaver oil I started having compression issues. The shock wasn't going down fast enough, so I didn't really have any rebound issues.:banghead:

So how do you like your suspension now after changing the dampening and going back to the lighter oil?

I took it out Sunday and rode it hard. The whoops I was looking for were filled with snow. I found some down the beach and must say I am pretty happy with the suspension now. It was probably not a very good test as the temp was only 20 degrees. But it is the best I have felt it. I did some stuff to the forks that really helped the dive when letting off the throttle. I will post that up a little later.

overall :):banghead: More like the suspension should be.

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So I got my shock back tonight. Blueshopsuper, I now understand what you had to do to get it apart. Makes perfect sense now that ive been able to look at it. So I threw it all back together tonight just itching for a dirt road ride since we've had super warm temps the last few days.

The difference-

Definately noticeable! The guy warned my not to expect too much, but I immediately noticed in the garage pushing down on the suspension that it returned very slowly comared to before. In fact I then went over to my WRF and pushed down on its suspension and thought the WRR was slower. I remembered that he set my clicker settings back to the way I had them which was near full rebound. I actually felt that I needed to back it down about 4- clicks atleast to start with, then play with it when I get a chance to hit the rough stuff.

What I do know:

Its different, slower rebound, atleast in the garage(did feel better on the short almost all road ride I went on for about 10 MI)

What I dont know:

How it will act on a real ride especially in the rough stuff where most of my complaints came from.

Recap: I had the oil changed out with the same weight, just without all the foam and metal shavings. Then the rebound only valving shims where changed out with some that were thicker.

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So I got my shock back tonight.

Did they put a schrader valve in it for you? Do you happen to know what pressure the nitrogen was charged at?

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No schrader valve. He said he charges all shock to.... and gave me a range, then said he charged mine in the middle of the range. Sorry, I cant remember the range. He wrote down all the shim specs for me on a peice of paper, when I can ill check it to see if he wrote the pressure down or not.

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I wonder how he charged it? Assembled it in nitrogen-filled compression chamber while wearing a deep diving suit? Hmmmm. Or mebbe just used a football inflator needle and charged it to 15 lbs? How how how?

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I wonder how he charged it? Assembled it in nitrogen-filled compression chamber while wearing a deep diving suit? Hmmmm. Or mebbe just used a football inflator needle and charged it to 15 lbs? How how how?

A ball inflater is too fat and too blunt. I bought one of these http://www.racetech.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=9&subcat=33&cat=Shock+Nitrogen+Needle and it works good. I inflated to 140 after changing the oil which felt good but, 150 psi feels a little better.

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