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super tech "diesel oil" 15w40 oil from wal mart for a 4 stroke engine and clutch??

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heres most of its specs: http://www.thedieselstop.com/archives/ubbthreads/73EandD/forums.thedieselstop.com/archives/showflat.php-Cat=&Number=1019453&page=37&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1.htm

I bought a 20L bucket of it from wal mart today for 45$. about 2$ per liter, which isint too bad. I usually buy 4L of shell rotella T for 16$ which is 4$ per liter.

I was wondering if its good to use in my bike. it says its for diesel engines, but so does shell rotella t and its worked fine for years.

ps: a 20L bucket of 20w50 rotella t is 70$

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heres most of its specs: http://www.thedieselstop.com/archives/ubbthreads/73EandD/forums.thedieselstop.com/archives/showflat.php-Cat=&Number=1019453&page=37&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1.htm

I bought a 20L bucket of it from wal mart today for 45$. about 2$ per liter, which isint too bad. I usually buy 4L of shell rotella T for 16$ which is 4$ per liter.

I was wondering if its good to use in my bike. it says its for diesel engines, but so does shell rotella t and its worked fine for years.

ps: a 20L bucket of 20w50 rotella t is 70$

there is cheap oil, there is expensive oil, you get what you pay for i guess, but i buy in the middle, rotella t is for me (not exclusively)

and yes i do contribute two of my engines failing do to poor quality oil,overtemp conditions kill cheap oil.

.02 ,,

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there is cheap oil, there is expensive oil, you get what you pay for i guess, but i buy in the middle, rotella t is for me (not exclusively)

and yes i do contribute two of my engines failing do to poor quality oil,overtemp conditions kill cheap oil.

.02 ,,

this is a fairly heavy weight though... I can see a cheap 5w-30 turning to water, but 15w40?!

and ive always used the cheap oils and strictly changed them every 3 hours (ill make it every 2 hours with this cheap stuff) other than buying the expensive stuff and changing it every 10 hours. does that change things?

what kind of oil do YOU use, and how often do you change it?

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i use generally use shell, kendall, mobil, or texico oils , and change annually or after 4-6 rides offroad, or just use (yamahlube 2R):)

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^^ hmm ok. thanks. I think ill stick with the super tech. I read around on it.. turns out theres no complaints on it except it turns black sooner than others, oh well, I change it before it gets too black anyways. its super cheap, but I dont race so im not that hard on my bike.|

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GoastRider, I've recently come to the understanding that Mobil 1, and some of the Shell Rotella lines of oils have changed their formulations, and are no longer good quality lubes. I've removed, or are in the process of removing all Mobil 1 products from my personal vehicles. I'd hate to see a brand that you've trusted for years, change their formula, and hurt their long time customers, but I think that's happining.

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GoastRider, I've recently come to the understanding that Mobil 1, and some of the Shell Rotella lines of oils have changed their formulations, and are no longer good quality lubes. I've removed, or are in the process of removing all Mobil 1 products from my personal vehicles. I'd hate to see a brand that you've trusted for years, change their formula, and hurt their long time customers, but I think that's happining.

tell me more ,, where did you get your information ??

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tell me more ,, where did you get your information ??

I'm rather involved in the Porsche community. Porsche recomended M1 and Shell oils for years. With the reduced levels of Zinc\Phosphorous compounds (ZDDP) and friction modifiers such as Moly there have been an increase in engine failures. It is a very intense topic with some in this community as you could expect. One of the best resources is Charles Navarro from LN Enginerring, here's a link to one of his oil tristeses:

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

The Brad Penn oil he recomends, I believe is from the Kendall family.

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heres most of its specs: http://www.thedieselstop.com/archives/ubbthreads/73EandD/forums.thedieselstop.com/archives/showflat.php-Cat=&Number=1019453&page=37&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1.htm

I bought a 20L bucket of it from wal mart today for 45$. about 2$ per liter, which isint too bad. I usually buy 4L of shell rotella T for 16$ which is 4$ per liter.

I was wondering if its good to use in my bike. it says its for diesel engines, but so does shell rotella t and its worked fine for years.

ps: a 20L bucket of 20w50 rotella t is 70$

Sorry to hijack your thread back there. I'd feel safe using diesel Rotella for now but I wouldn't in the tranny. I've had great success using Castrol in the tranny. You'll have to check the levels of detergents when deciding on an oil used in a wet clutch.

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Sorry to hijack your thread back there. I'd feel safe using diesel Rotella for now but I wouldn't in the tranny. I've had great success using Castrol in the tranny. You'll have to check the levels of detergents when deciding on an oil used in a wet clutch.

thats ok, I read it all, any chance I get to learn something ill take it. you guys are more than welcome to continue here if you want.

ive used rotella in the tranny and engine for 2 years now, changing it every 3 hours. ive had no problems. I have also read many many others here on TT that use rotella T in both engine and tranny. but if you what you said about them changing their forumula that might suck...

to be honest, my wal mart has been out of rotella T, so my last oil was castrol GTX and pennzoil 10w-30s. the cheaper models and I noticed no difference between those 2 and the rotella. I havnt run the super tech ultra cheap stuff yet, I think itll work just fine. its a normal 15w40 diesel oil, its basicaly all the same. I mean how much damage can it possibly do?

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Folks get all impressed because an oil has "diesel" in the name. While diesel oils like Rotella, had a half descent additive package a few years ago, diesel oils have now been reformulated with reduced levels of ZDDP, to accomodate catalytic converters. Just getting a "diesel" oil, doesn't guarantee you anything!!! Plus, you don't know anything about the wet clutch unfriendly friction modifiers it might contain....

Are you really so poor that you can't afford $5 a quart for a proper API SG/JASO MA rated motorcycle oil??? If you are on a budget, find yourself some Maxima Premium.....it has a monster anti-wear additive package, and won't make your wet clutch slip.

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...While diesel oils like Rotella, had a half decent additive package a few years ago, diesel oils have now been reformulated with reduced levels of ZDDP, to accomodate catalytic converters.
This seems to match what MXVETsaid...
...With the reduced levels of Zinc\Phosphorous compounds (ZDDP) and friction modifiers such as Moly, there have been an increase in engine failures.

And from another site...

Some makers have reduced the ZDDP level, which is not good, as ZDDP has anti-wear properties.

Shell Rotella T diesel (CJ rated) which used to be good for bikes, has reduced the ZDDP content (not good).

Casrol GTX 15W40 diesel is CI-4 and SJ rated which means it still has the high ZDDP content.

To the OP, it's the additives that seem to make a bigger difference in the durability/quality of the oil, not just the viscosity (10w30) rating.

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Another issue is your engine type! This isn't your dad's old XR400! All the new generation of "thumper" engines like your YZ450F scream, and are hard on their oil. They all tolerate a lot of comprssion blow-by, so the oil gets diluted out with fuel very rapidly (that is why you need frequent oil changes!).

A good article on this issue: http://www.belray.com/scripts/futurearts.dll?CollectBinaryData?loc=belray&coid=55180&moid=20156&fauuid=b6c30da5-6537-41d7-b921-64a4cf6d0144

Your engine deserves a high quality oil that you are absolutely sure will go the distance, and not some Wally World oil that you know little about, and looks impressive because it says "diesel" on the bottle!

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This seems to match what MXVETsaid...

And from another site...

To the OP, it's the additives that seem to make a bigger difference in the durability/quality of the oil, not just the viscosity (10w30) rating.

The best way to insure that you are getting optimum levels of ZDDP, is to choose an API SG rated oil. And, if you want to be sure it is fine for your wet clutch, then make sure it is also JASO MA.

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diesel oils have now been reformulated with reduced levels of ZDDP, to accomodate catalytic converters.

I didn't realize that diesel oils were also changing their formulations. I don't use them but, I haven't heard that they've changed either.

I know more then a few people who are using motorcycle oils in their cars, such as M1's V-Twin, because they haven't messed with their additives as of yet.

I'm personally using these at the moment:

Royal Purple

Swepco products

Bel-Ray Thumper (starting to evaluate this however)

Some Valvoline products (not much though, and maybe changing them out soon, as with my Mobil 1 products)

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The best way to insure that you are getting optimum levels of ZDDP, is to choose an API SG rated oil. And, if you want to be sure it is fine for your wet clutch, then make sure it is also JASO MA.

I'm also starting to look into independant U.O.A. labs to find out what additives are in my oils, (virgin sample) and how fast these additives are being used up, (used sample).

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i wouldn't step foot into walmart looking to buy a product for my bike, i run klotz oil in everything i own, i used it in my thumper when i owned one, and now i still use it in my smokers, and the premix smells amazing too

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I been using rotella t in my kx250f for a while now but want to change. What do you guys recommend?

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