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Replaced cylinder, missed a part on re-assembly.. How important is this?

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$^#(*^#@($#@(*$$#@^%^@!%@#%!!!!

Of course things couldn't just go smooth and I'd get it right the first time..

I just put a big bore kit on my bike, and when I looked at the old cylinder I noticed it still has a bolt sleeve on it.. See the right cylinder - top right hole - that sleeve..

bigbore.jpg

The motor is all back together, all torqued down, then I see this.

Now the big question is do I tear it all apart again for this part? Or is it not essential??

If it makes any difference, it's a 2007 KLX250S..

This sucks. My first attempt at something like this so go easy on me!

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This could go either way.

firstly, I'd say, that's a pretty important part.

But, you may get lucky & it'll run fine.

If it were me, I'd fix it.

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i just did a head gasket on a buddies car. we didnt put those little tings back in either, they got totally bent out of shape when removing the head. Your probably fine, however a bike head is different than a car head. Hope someone else can chime in about it

his car has about 1700 miles on it since we did the work with zero problems

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$^#(*^#@($#@(*$$#@^%^@!%@#%!!!!

Of course things couldn't just go smooth and I'd get it right the first time..

I just put a big bore kit on my bike, and when I looked at the old cylinder I noticed it still has a bolt sleeve on it.. See the right cylinder - top right hole - that sleeve....

Put it on, its what is used to center the head on the cylinder. Its pretty critical. You will be able to reuse the gasket as it hasnt even ran. Just pop the head back off.

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Use a pair of side cutter pliers so it just bites into the side of the sleeve and the tool lays flat on the base of the cyl and rock the pliers so it pries the sleeve out.

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I'd fix it. Sometimes they use those areas around the studs as an oil passage for the valve train and camshaft and the alignment dowel keeps it from being blocked by misalignment.

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If it were me, I'd fix it. I wouldn't like knowing I left something out.

Don't feel bad I did the same thing when rebuilding my YZ426 some years ago. I was told, and it sure worked for me, that even if you torque your head bolts, then pull the head again very soon, you can re-use the head gasket. As I said, my head gasket sealed fine after re-torqueing.

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As said before alignment dowel. I'd be more concerned about the head gasket sealing the water jackets and over heating with that big of an over bore. How many cc's is that now? In the pic's it looks like half of the water jacket is gone now.

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Thanks for the advice guys. I guess I'll be tearing the head off again. Guess it's better that I noticed now and not after I got everything all back in.. Just have to take off the valv cover, and head. I'm going to see if I can just lift the head a bit and slide it in without taking everything fully off...

Here goes nothing!

And Punga - it's a 351 kit.

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I only see one, there should be two dowels , you can see the recess in the holes they go in.

I would definitely put them, in keeps everything aligned .

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They're both in there, the other stuck in the head.. That was the only one left behind.

Just put it in, putting everytthing back together now.

One question about the jetting - I have an FMF kit. It's a KLX250S with an FMF full exhaust, airbox lid removed, and foam filter. Current setting is stock pilot, 128 main, C clip at 4th notch.. I think the mixture screw is 2.5 turns or so out..

My only other bigger jet I have is a 132. Should I try the 132? Or stay with the 128 and richen it up a bit?? If it matters much, I'm at sea level - 3k ft at the most.

Kinda lost on that one..

Thanks

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IT'S ALLIIIIIIVVVEEE!!!!

Just started it, started right up!!! I let it idle till the fan kicked in, and shut it off.. Going to go put the plastics back on, start it again and get it moving a bit.. WOOHOO

I hope it all works out.. I went with the 132 jet, turned the mixture screw in one turn (1.5 out now I believe) and kept the needle the same.

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big bores like to run leaner.good thing you put the dowel back in,it could of cost you a valve or worse.i remember once loosing a dowel,i finally found it in my bottom end:banghead:

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I mangled one of those collars when I rebuilt a motor once and had no replacement. I used a hose clamp in its place, cut to size to fit snugly.

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Hey CousinLarry where did ya' get the 351cc kit? Been thinking about doing a big bore but have only found the 330 kit.Mine is an '03 300R

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Hey Hootin - Got it from Bill Blue - check the Kawasaki board in the KLX250 section. .

Alright, first 25 miles are on. The bike feels real good.. I'm thinking it might be a tad rich, but it is running great so I'm not going to touch anything till I can get it to a dyno with a sniffer..

But yeah, runs real nice. I think I need to put the stock front sprocket (1t bigger) back on as it seems to run through the first few gears real fast :)

I am going to go now and change the oil and pull the plug - see how it all looks..

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Awesome Larry, now get back home to the KF camp before I open up a can on you. LOL:p :banghead: Just messing, I post here too. :)

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IT'S ALLIIIIIIVVVEEE!!!!

Just started it, started right up!!! I let it idle till the fan kicked in, and shut it off.. Going to go put the plastics back on, start it again and get it moving a bit.. WOOHOO

I hope it all works out.. I went with the 132 jet, turned the mixture screw in one turn (1.5 out now I believe) and kept the needle the same.

I have the answer for your jetting..FCR-35 or 37! It's the perfect compliment to a large bore kit. If tou think installing the 351 made a big difference, wait till you get-a-load of what a good pumper will do with all the added power. :):banghead:

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I know I know... hahaa.. I'm keeping my eyes on the classifieds..

The bike is running great, at 100 miles now :)

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