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what are the next steps??(warning pic heavy)

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hey everyone today was the day that my bike went from this

1218082146.jpg?t=1237174508

to this

0315092006.jpg?t=1237174933

Ive got a couple questions now that i have it this far, how do you regrease everything? the PO told me he was anal about keeping everything tip top, but it seems as if he was talking about how the bike looked then how it performed, i don't think the grease has ever been changed on this thing. i need to regrease my axles, all the pivots for the swing arm, and anything else i should do with the bike this far apart? any and all suggestions are welcome, i will end up doing the front end sometime as well, im just a little scared about not getting the steering stem put back together properly.

oh a few more things

what is this? i told myself i wasn't going to unbolt anything on the motor but i got curious and it looked harmless so i popped it open and out came ALOT of black liquid, im pretty sure its the same splooge that comes out of my exhaust right now

what.jpg?t=1237175772

i also found this on my rear rotor, and a little on my front, it looks like pitting but what is causing it? and i cant dig my fingernail into it either. so its not an actual pit

0315092008.jpg?t=1237175973

thanks in advance guys.

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That is the power valve cover in the picture, the spots look like maybe chain lube or some sort of grease got on the rotor then it got hot and burned in the stain I have had this happen on other bikes before. Just use a waterproof grease when lubing the poinys on the bike. looks good anf clead though. good luck

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Just clean all of the old grease off the best you can, grease with a good waterproof grease and put it all back together. I'd recommend getting the shock fluid changed while you're at it. It's probably due.

The front is not any more difficult than the rear. Just make sure you don't have any free play or binding in the steerer bearings and torque everything to spec. I'd change the fork oil too, if it hasn't been done recently.

I just did the same on my 250xcw. Complete teardown and lube. Now I'm halfway finished with the same on my XR. Fun winter projects...

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ok so to regrease things i just put new grease on the swing arm pivot bolt and inside the bushings on the swing arm itself?? the same with the shock bolts?? should i pull out the bushings on the shock and swing arm to clean them better?? sorry for the newb questions, this is my first time tearing down a dirt bike.

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I replaced the lower heim joint because it was shot, but I didn't know it until I pulled the metal sleeves out. And I pulled the metal spacers and seals out of the top bushing on the shock to inspect and clean it. I also would pull the metal spacers out of the swingarm bearings and clean out the old grease and regrease them if they are in good cond. I would do it all now while you have it apart.

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i was reading in the manual and it says not to grease or lube the lower joint on the shock because its Teflon coated. whats the skinny on it then just leave it?? there was a little rust on my lower pivot bolt so i need to so something.

**edit**

ok after working late into the night last night i realize i should have just gotten into things before i asked questions, the tear down was WAY simpler then i thought, when i got all the bearings and joints out of the arm i found some issues, the lower shock spherical joint is corroded, i was able to get some fine sand paper and buff the corosion off the ball and it turns alot better then before but it still catches a little bit, and the spacers for it were rusted where they connect with the seals. 2 of the 4 needle bearings were TOASTED, cages broken and some needles were just gone. not to mention most of the seals are shot. so due to the amount of stuff i need to replace and the state of "maintenence" previously done im going to just replace all the bearings and seals,(swing arm, possibly both wheels, and possibly the headset bearings) i found the all balls website and i like there prices but does anyone know anywhere else i can get the bearings and seals?

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does anyone know anywhere else i can get the bearings and seals?

Munn Racing. tell em what you need and you will have it lickity split.

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+1 on munn racing! I just got my order in yesterday. And ya thats the exhaust valve cover. To remove the old grease get some carb cleaner and spray it on or let the parts sit in gas for a little then wipe it all off then re grease. Mine looks alot like yours right now too. And dont be afraid of taking the steering stem off either. Take alot of pictures of where things go and the order they go in. Its really easy. Good luck.

Heres mine, except even more taken apart now. I am doing a top end rebuild, and a full off frame cleaning. This is an old picture because the steering stem is still on.

100_4240.jpg

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They say not to grease the lower heim joint due to the teflon coating. Mine was completely corroded and frozen on a 2 year old bike. I used BelRay waterproof grease and greased the new one. It can't be worse off than the old one was in 2 years, so I'll take my chances.

I have read on KTMtalk of people greasing them with the same grease with no ill effects and they last for years. It depends on the additives in the grease you use, I guess.

I rebuilt my shock but had to send it out to get it recharged, since noboby around here has the equipment. It should be back today. Woo Hoo I'll finally get to finish putting mine back together!

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thanks for the help guys, i took a look at munn racing and there prices are the same as bike bandit. the all balls stuff is in a kit and for ALL of the swing arm stuff, (needle bearings, sleaves, seals, bushings) its only 70 bucks. for the needle bearings alone from munn or bandit its 60. i was going to just regrease the heim joint cause it was already corroded before i found the all balls site. but i would rather fix the problem right rather then give it a temporary fix. have you guys ever used slick honey brand grease on your stuff? i used to use it on everything when i would fix bicycles.

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thanks for the help guys, i took a look at munn racing and there prices are the same as bike bandit. the all balls stuff is in a kit and for ALL of the swing arm stuff, (needle bearings, sleaves, seals, bushings) its only 70 bucks. for the needle bearings alone from munn or bandit its 60. i was going to just regrease the heim joint cause it was already corroded before i found the all balls site. but i would rather fix the problem right rather then give it a temporary fix. have you guys ever used slick honey brand grease on your stuff? i used to use it on everything when i would fix bicycles.

Synergy Seals makes a better heim joint bushing. That's what is going in my bike soon.

join KTMtalk, pay $100 to become a lifetime member and then you will get a substantial discount at many places such as Munn. I will be joining as soon as I have the extra dough. Once you deal with Munn, get to know them, and they know you, you won't really want to deal with anyone else.

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I recommend if you are replacing the heim, use the original KTM replacement. I used a aftermarket and the joint was a lot harder to install (tighter fit), I think due to less chamfered edges.

As said previously, the next time I replace it will be with a bushing from synergy seals.

When I bought my ktm new, the dealer said the heim needs replacing yearly, so I figured what the heck I will try the grease anyways. I grease them with belray waterproof grease and no problems to date. Its been about 3 yrs. My understanding is conventional grease will eat the plastic inside the heim, belray doesnt seem to bother it.

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Hey Gmoss if I join them for a life time member how much do I save? Sorry to change topic.

Derek

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Hey Gmoss if I join them for a life time member how much do I save? Sorry to change topic.

Derek

don't know for sure, maybe try PM'ing a lifetime member over there to see if they can tell ya. I could say what I have heard, but I don't want to spread wrong info.

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Synergy Seals makes a better heim joint bushing. That's what is going in my bike soon.

join KTMtalk, pay $100 to become a lifetime member and then you will get a substantial discount at many places such as Munn. I will be joining as soon as I have the extra dough. Once you deal with Munn, get to know them, and they know you, you won't really want to deal with anyone else.

You are doing what I did early last month. First of all, join KTMtalk if you haven't already. Wealth of info there about the very thing you're doing. I replaced my heim joint with the Synergy seal F bearing - way easier to install and the reports I have read say good things about its longevity. Some good homebrew methods for heim joint removal explained on KTMtalk that require simple tools. I would recommend replacing your rear wheel bearings being as you're this far along. Pivot works has em cheap ($40ish verses OEM $100 plus) #PWRWK-T01-521. I found that all I needed to do with the swingarm bearings was to carefully slide them halfway out either side and grease em good as they are not caged on your year. This is also a good time to properly set your chain tension with the rear shock removed.

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well i only have a free email address so hopefully they will still allow me to join. thresher if you ever find out how much people are saving by becoming a lifetime member could you please pm it to me, i would do it if its worth it.

If that be the case that my needle bearings arent supposed to have a cage then theyve been replaced before because the ones i got out had cages with a washer on only one side and no thrush bearings.

im probably going to just replace all the bearings while i have everything this far apart and then i know for a fact how much life is left in my bearings. and in my mind either replacing all the bearings yearly or a complete solvent clean and regrease isnt to much to ask to keep your bike tip top and running great.

one thing i kind of shruged off at the time but when i was going through my carb, someone changed the main jet to a 155, the needle jet was the same as stock and the little jet you need a special screwdriver to get out(idk what that one is) i never got that one out to check it. do you guys see a reason why the main should be 155? stock is 175 i think. the elevation where i ride can vary from 4500 feet up to 5300 feet depending on if im riding the dunes or mountains.

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well i only have a free email address so hopefully they will still allow me to join. thresher if you ever find out how much people are saving by becoming a lifetime member could you please pm it to me, i would do it if its worth it.

If that be the case that my needle bearings arent supposed to have a cage then theyve been replaced before because the ones i got out had cages with a washer on only one side and no thrush bearings.

im probably going to just replace all the bearings while i have everything this far apart and then i know for a fact how much life is left in my bearings. and in my mind either replacing all the bearings yearly or a complete solvent clean and regrease isnt to much to ask to keep your bike tip top and running great.

one thing i kind of shruged off at the time but when i was going through my carb, someone changed the main jet to a 155, the needle jet was the same as stock and the little jet you need a special screwdriver to get out(idk what that one is) i never got that one out to check it. do you guys see a reason why the main should be 155? stock is 175 i think. the elevation where i ride can vary from 4500 feet up to 5300 feet depending on if im riding the dunes or mountains.

if you email the admin, they will let you join. it's a spam filter.

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one thing i kind of shruged off at the time but when i was going through my carb, someone changed the main jet to a 155, the needle jet was the same as stock and the little jet you need a special screwdriver to get out(idk what that one is) i never got that one out to check it. do you guys see a reason why the main should be 155? stock is 175 i think. the elevation where i ride can vary from 4500 feet up to 5300 feet depending on if im riding the dunes or mountains.

any ideas on this jetting guys?

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FWIW, on my 01 I'm running a 168 main with the needle set with the retainer at the top position. Runs great from sea level to 3-4K feet.

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