CR250 Woods setup??

[Babywolf]

Xr200r clutch lever with extra long leverage was best mod on my 2003 next 50 T rear sprocket and also I might add the factory procircuit pipe painted black works better than any of the fmf pipes for bottom thru top power. Black is to make it look factory. Edit: i also use a protaper evo Ricky Carmichael bend handlebar cut to 30.5", tusk bark busters and Honda red hand guards, skid plate is Mx style by works connection (my policy is to slow down before I hit things that will damage bottom of bike cause it is smarter and just as fast in the end). Soften suspension on front a lot on rear a little

Edited May 30, 2016 by florastuart

[Piney Woods]

I second the PC pipe over the FMF. Better overall power and it fits much better. Not once have I had a FMF that fit right, gave up a long time ago.

[StrangeLuv]

I just set my 2004 CR250 up for the exact same thing.

 

Here are the modifications ranked in order of importance:

1. Bark Busters, I went with the Cycra.

2. Radiator guards.  Without them, you WILL lose them.  Bullet Proof Designs are the best.

3. Skid plate.  Go with plastic, as it slides.  Metal grabs.  TM Designs are great, but have to be modified for a CR, as they don't make them.  I modified an RM skid plate, per their recommendation.

4. Scotts rear disc guard.  You WILL bend it.

5. TM Designs chain guide.  The stock one WILL bend and rub the chain.

6. Pipe guard.  P3 makes them for a Gnarly pipe, which is great for the woods.

7. Suspension setup.

8. Kiehn PWK carb.  Smooths out everything.

9. FMF Gnarly Pipe. Better low end grunt, sturdier pipe.

10. Flywheel weight.

11. Rekluse.

12. IMS Tank.

 

Obviously, I rank protection over performance.  I did all these things to my CR.  It's a very capable woods bike.  I got all of this stuff from Bullet Proof Designs, with the exception of the carb, which I got at Area 51 Motorsports.  Chad Newman is a savant when it comes to engines and tuning them.

 

Good luck.

[Hairyyeti]

keihen carb

12 oz flywheel weight

moose torque spacer

stock pipe

14 tooth countershaft sprocket

2.5 weight fork and shock oil

Enduro engineering bar risers

kenda equilibrium rear tire

easy pull clutch lever

this setup is on my 13 year olds

cr250r and he loves it, lugs way down,

he can buy his own rekluse.

[Piney Woods]

50/50 mix of Silkolene or Golden Spectro 2.5 and 5wt fork oil  in stock forks at 340CC was my almost perfect fork setup with stock fork springs at 195 lbs, very good C rider in the woods. Shock needed a 5.3 spring(01 CR250).  Pro revalves ruined a great bike.

[hawaii500_1999]

13/50 gearing.

 

FMF SST pipe.

 

gaurds, (ie. rad braces, skid plate, bark busters.)

 

go ride it! 

 

 

they don't need anything else.  you just need to gear it down for the tighter stuff.  SST pipe isn't necessary either, but it gives a hit from mid to top, and more over rev for between turns.

 

 

edit, oh ya, and a bigger tank is nice too.

Edited June 2, 2016 by hawaii500_1999

[Houseopayne]

I have a 2003. If I were you since you have an 01 I would go with a 13oz flywheel to tame the hit. I would not go with a fatty pipe but he gnarly and vForce reed cage. It did wonders for my bike. Suspension is also going to be huge if not the most important. Get the first 3-4 inches of travel softened up. Add a skid plate, bark busters, radiator braces, and some good tires and you'll be good to go.

Oh and Rekluse clutches that delete the need for your clutch lever are for &%$#@!!!!!!!! LOL

Edited June 3, 2016 by Houseopayne

[hawaii500_1999]

good thing the guy before mentioned suspension.  i forgot to mention that. 

 

Suspension....get it re-valved for offroad.  mine was revalved, with that 02 3rd gen frame, it was the best handling bike i ever had!

 

 

the gnarly though?!?!? 

no thanks! 

but this does have a lot to do with riding style and preference.  i personally hate the gnarly pipes.  unpredictable low to mid hit, and crappy top end.  SST and Fatty give you more all around.  SST gives a great over rev.  but like i said it's a matter of riding style and preference.  obviously they sell a lot of the pipes.  any one i ride with though that actually rides a fast pace does not like them.  the stock pipe has the smoothest most electric like power band of them all.  it feels like there is a flywheel weight.

 

 

and the flywheel weight. 

try riding it first before adding it.  it makes the power come on slower and smoother, and you stall less.  but you lose the snap exiting turns.  plus when out of shape on a hill climb and you need to clutch it, it seems to not climb up as well on the pipe than without a weight.  i rode and raced many year with no weight.  just learn how to use that clutch.  you will be faster.  however this too is a personal rider preference.

[Houseopayne]

The 01 engine is an all out motocross style powerband. All high rev awesomeness. I find it too hard of a hit for single track. But then again I came off a 450 4 stroke so I like smoothed out power. Hawaii500 is right. It's all about your riding style and preference. My bike is slower than my buddies YZ if we are drag racing but my power is more useable in those tight woods rides and it allows me to stay in control better therefore ride quicker.

[Piney Woods]

I am in TOTAL agreement with H500. I used an 8oz Steahly fww for all my CR250s starting with the '86 thru my '95. Then I decided to not use it on my '00 and '01. Much better for me overall. And I use the stock pipe with the Mikuni. Jetted properly it is an easy to control electric smooth powerband like no other, perfect for me in the woods. I even bought a spare stock pipe in case I ever ruin the original. Now, if only I can fix my susp.

Edited June 3, 2016 by YHGEORGE

[Babywolf]

Update on 2003 CR250R restore: Well not sure where to start because I think I've changed about everything at least once! But went back to stock 7/8" handlebars due to stiffness in front end, mainly due to eBay purchase of original handlebar perches with rubber dampers, it is an improvement for wrist and arm fatigue,

Found nice eBay original wheels, put new tire on rear that I have been having good luck using Sedona soft terrain, still 19" but working ok so far. Front wheel was brand new with original k490 tire never used from what I can tell, it works good when dry, sucks when wet, I have Bridgestone m59 that I will install soon.

Install a set of new radiators and hoses from GPR that seem to work well.

Replaced procircuit pipe and muffler with new pc pipe and fmf spark arrestor muffler. All fit great, old stuff just to banged up.

The motor has always ran good and strong but seemed rich jetting wise and not clean enough for good woods bike, did lots of research on this subject and discovered a problem with stock carb that makes it either idle good but power sucks or it won't idle and power is killer. I looked lots of posts but came to conclusion to use pc spec jetting for this model, which mimics 2002 jetting but with S-8 needle holder (jetsrus), 390mj, 30-74 needle, 3 clip position, 32.5 pilot, this cleaned up jetting and made power increased everywhere, idle adjustment is still critical and key is to keep idle low as possible with slide in lowest position possible. Power is now right from bottom, which is way different from what I have read about this model and it is much more like my 1987 but it revs much harder and farther, my guess that it could run with a modern 450 now. I also upgraded plug to BR8EIX . I figured if anybody had a way to jet this model it would be either procircuit or JD jetting. The power now is really too much for woods but it is so much cleaner I might could adapt with time, but I had ordered a 9 oz FWW so I bolted it on but have not tested yet. My 87 cr liked a FWW but my 2000 kx250 didn't so we will see, but I suspect it will stay due to trail ridding only now. That's all for now but I think a few more items would be nice, kickstand and a hydraulic clutch come to mind!

Well forgot one huge item, suspension, it is still working pretty good with forks adjusted totally soft and rear adjusted soft but normal sag and some compression and rebound left in the adjustments, surprisingly balanced for such odd settings but not ready to dive into them yet, former owner had just had them serviced by suspension shop and they seem to be working normal.

I posted this in wrong spot, I had started a post "New 2003, restoring for trails" if moderator can move, it would be more relevant, sorry coffee wasn't working good yet

Edited July 8, 2016 by florastuart

[Babywolf]

Ok so I have made a lot of progress on the 2003 cr250 woods setup, but my next step is a hard choice, need your input, trail tech kickstand or 18" rim and spokes to mount on my spare wheel? I do have a new 18" tire but I haven't worn out my 19" by any means and being my spare bike the kickstand will get used more. Tough call.

[Piney Woods]

I have two 19's, have never seen the real need for a 18. Sidestand.

[Babywolf]

Ok, I agree, kickstand, ride with 19, so I have an m59 Bridgestone front and it really works well on cr, what works well with that tire on rear with 19 rim, va and NC mountains mainly, been real wet this year, I tend to stick with soft terrain, and is there any advantage with 120 tread width in woods on 19. I like 120 width on my 500 18"

[Piney Woods]

I like Bridgestone, Michelin and Dunlop intermediate rears, have had good luck with all of them. Am using a Bridgestone now, 110-90-19 or 110-100. The bigger(120) tires made my bike push, don't like that.

Edited July 24, 2016 by YHGEORGE

[Babywolf]

So, I finally got around to a back to back ride of the CR250R and the ktm500 in some tight single track trails. I was very pleased and kinda surprised, the CR250R felt better than I was expecting, handling and light weight feel were as good as many here have said, it felt less tiring and smoother than I had expected. My real surprise was the suspension was much better than I had expected, rocks, roots, logs, and ruts were handled with surprising ease. This is especially pleasing to me because I have spent too much on this bike already and now I can just ride it and fine tune the motor and jetting a little more. The motor has so much power I find myself riding a lot of bottom end and it has a slight lean bog off the bottom, the temperatures were much cooler than when I was jetting it this summer so I am guessing a needle clip lower (richer) might be in order for winter riding. Wow, I am happy,, this might just be my new favorite!

[Piney Woods]

?  Now you have me back on a mission to find the OEM susp valving which was also great for me. My revalved stuff is the only flaw with my 01.  Good luck with yours.

[sndmn2]

What I did to mine: 01

Promoto kickstand

Bark busters

Scotts over the bar mount

IMS oversize tank

Lighting kit to make legal

Stealy flywheel weight

Rekluse

Airstryker

skid plate

gnarley pipe

radiator guards

I tried a larger rear sprocket but I ran out of gear to fast and went back to stock gearing.

FMF "q"

Edited December 9, 2016 by sndmn2