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XR650R Choke Plate Question

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ok, so I got paranoid and installed the XR's Only aluminum choke plate. I also removed the flapper. Now, the bike is way harder to start cold and warm. it used to be a one or two kick bike when cold and warm. now, it takes a good 6 or 8 kicks.

here's my info:

- stock carb

- 170 main

- 65S pilot

- B53 needle at 3rd

- Big Gun Exhaust with quiet core and SA screen

- stock air box cover (no vents)

- stock engine

- 3000 feet at 50F.

(I typically ride from 3000 feet to 7000 feet at 50F to 90F)

she's street legal so I ride up to trails right from my house.

:)

thanks for any advice!!

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so why not reinstall choke? if it was all good before then maybe going back to where you were. I can see how it would be harder to start without choke

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Have you adjusted the idle mixure screw after the change or put a 68s or 70 pilot in that thing adjust the idle mixure screw and be happy! Even the high elevation should still need the bigger pilot the 70 (none s) might be better in this case.

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...maybe u shud try the 68s pilot :)

i thought on the R carb the only potential problem is the backfire flapper & spring assembly...easy to remove and no real need to replace the whole steel plate :banghead:

now sum of the 600R carbs had the cast choke plate...this wus potentially at risk of breaking and trash'n the motor :foul:

:banghead:

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...maybe u shud try the 68s pilot :)

i thought on the R carb the only potential problem is the backfire flapper & spring assembly...easy to remove and no real need to replace the whole steel plate :banghead:

now sum of the 600R carbs had the cast choke plate...this wus potentially at risk of breaking and trash'n the motor :foul:

:banghead:

I guess since I also ride the high elevation terrain/some fairly tight, slow trails, I have really hesitated to install the larger 68S (that and the fact the dealer looked at me like I was a moron when I asked for a 68S and NOT a 68). In hindsight, I should have simply removed the flapper from the stock choke plate and not wasted $24 on a whole new plate. my bad. I will also check the screw. thanks for the help.

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so why not reinstall choke? if it was all good before then maybe going back to where you were. I can see how it would be harder to start without choke

I have a choke plate (and therefore a choke) but the choke flapper is now removed/gone-johnson.

I have heard of the slim possibility the flapper can break off and go through the engine.

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There should be no change, as the flapper only works in a backfire anyway. The solid plate just elimates the possibility of the flapper coming off and doing catastrophic damage.

I just removed the flapper altogether from mine (when I still had the stock carb on there) and it didn't do anything to how it started.

I wonder if possibly in the moving around of the carb (when you had it off to swap plates) that you got some debris in an internal passage that is causing the issue?

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There should be no change, as the flapper only works in a backfire anyway. The solid plate just elimates the possibility of the flapper coming off and doing catastrophic damage.

I just removed the flapper altogether from mine (when I still had the stock carb on there) and it didn't do anything to how it started.

I wonder if possibly in the moving around of the carb (when you had it off to swap plates) that you got some debris in an internal passage that is causing the issue?

\

I suppose that is possible but I was painfully careful as I always am. I've worked on quite a few carbs. The bike even sounds different when you kick it. before, it gave you "promise" when you kicked it. sounded like it was about to fire. now, it sounds like you have the kill button pressed for the first few kicks. weird....

I will clean it, check the settings (screw) and go from a 65S to a 68S Pilot.

"Wild, wacky, weird stuff"

thanks!!

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Adjust your valves!??!?

\

I suppose that is possible but I was painfully careful as I always am. I've worked on quite a few carbs. The bike even sounds different when you kick it. before, it gave you "promise" when you kicked it. sounded like it was about to fire. now, it sounds like you have the kill button pressed for the first few kicks. weird....

I will clean it, check the settings (screw) and go from a 65S to a 68S Pilot.

"Wild, wacky, weird stuff"

thanks!!

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Adjust your valves!??!?

and ur decomp while ur at it...

i definately noticed a difference with & without the backfire flap in place...i'm sure it depends on ur pilot jetting and/or fuel screw setting.

:)

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The 68s was just too rich for my 05, I did the standard uncorking. The only way I could get it to run half decent was when I had the fuel screw all the way in. I went back to the 65s and it runs fine now.

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I have removed the choke plate from my XRR carb.

I am running the 68 pilot and 2.75 turns out.

Motor is far from stock but I get the same thing when the motor is cold. The first few kicks feel like the kill switch is on but she will fire.

I know for a fact that my idle mixture is 14.7:1 +/- .1 when the motor is hot and the choke is off. Most seem to think that this is too lean but it is the ideal ratio for a clean burn.

This "lean" condition will make the bike a bit cold blooded but once warmed up she runs like a top, will never foul a plug, and gets great gas mileage.

The other problem I have with the advice of throw a 70 pilot in there is that now the 1/4 throttle range is now going to be SUPER rich.

The pilot circuit in these carbs has two outlets. One outlet lives between the slide and the intake valves and the other outlet lives just under the slide.

The outlet between the slide and the intake valves is regulated by the fuel screw. The other outlet will allow the full flow of the pilot jet once the slide lifts off the seat.

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The bike is finished, just give it to me and be done with it ;-)

Did the same mod (XR's Only choke plate) on my 94 XR600R (stock carb) with no problems at all. Took more filing and sanding to get the choke plate to fit propertly than we anticipated. They mentioned when I ordered it that "some filing would be required" it was almost to the point of abandoning the project and going back to the old flapper plate.

Wondering if the plate is not fitting properly on yours, perhaps it is getting hung up. Either way it sounds like you're going back into the carb soon. Check the fit and make sure you do not need to do some modification.

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i just looked at XRs site for some stuff and read on that plate, i was thinking it was something else, one of the addons to my list if i keep this carb, if not its going on the L but never the less im sure ill buy the plate.

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Adjust your valves!??!?

na, I just did that. In fact, I double-checked them just to be certain. they are spot on. thanks though.

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the XR's Only choke plate fit my carb fine. no fitment issues. sounds like their QC is a little lacking though....

I have a 68S on order. Weird though, it used to start so well with the 65S.

I will check the fuel screw before I re-jet.

thanks again for the advice.

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On my 03 R i have removed the flapper from the stock carb, mine has 68s , 175 main and B3 needle on 3rd pos i believe, plus the airbox plugs are gone and the side cover is vented. The bike starts ok not on first kick when cold but 2nd or 3rd does it normally.

Is that chocke plate exactly the same size as the production one if not that could be the issue with it, but that should be fixed with a little tweaking on the idle sxrew.

Rob

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On my 03 R i have removed the flapper from the stock carb, mine has 68s , 175 main and B3 needle on 3rd pos i believe, plus the airbox plugs are gone and the side cover is vented. The bike starts ok not on first kick when cold but 2nd or 3rd does it normally.

Is that chocke plate exactly the same size as the production one if not that could be the issue with it, but that should be fixed with a little tweaking on the idle sxrew.

Rob

so...I could not adjust the fuel screw. it had that effin Californicated "D" head on the screw to prevent the average person from adjusting it. all in the name of "emmisions". I took it to the dealer and they had the tool to remove it. I then installed Norm's (Kouba) fuel screw. I set it at 1 turn out and it starts great now. I have the 65S currently installed. I will try the 68S but fear it's going to be too rich for the elevations I ride. anyone have luck with a 68S anywhere but sea level? does it work at 6000 feet?

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im putting it in my bike at 3k, borynack and some other R guys recomended it so im trying to get one, have to run to XRs to get it cuz the local shops have no clue what it is DOH even honda shop when i told them its for a 650R, not sure about 6k feet, if its fairly stock motor i think your 65 will be pretty good for that elevation

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