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WR250X won't start after crash

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I crashed my WR250X this morning. Turned off its ignition to reset its tilt sensor then started it and rode it.

Now it won't start. E-start button does nothing. I'm not hearing the whirring of the fuel pump priming the injection system. It has electrical juice to signals, tail, horn, etc. Prime suspect is the tilt sensor.

Quick check in the parking lot:

R&R fuses, all OK.

R&R lean angle sensor. Tried starting bike with sensor in different positions.

R&R battery leads to reset computer.

Removed PCIII battery lead.

Removed run/stop switch housing, looks OK.

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Did you hit anything on side stand switch or wires?

Sorry to hear about the wipe-out; what happened?

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That sucks to hear! How far did you ride after laying it over, maybe the sensor never reset, it should just take a turn of the key, which you did. Being the fuel pump isn't running, I would say the sensor is the problem, maybe a bum sensor, try jumping the wires?

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Emergency kill switch?

I know I've overlooked that evil red button before..

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I crashed my WR250X this morning. Turned off its ignition to reset its tilt sensor then started it and rode it.

Now it won't start. E-start button does nothing. I'm not hearing the whirring of the fuel pump priming the injection system. It has electrical juice to signals, tail, horn, etc. Prime suspect is the tilt sensor.

Quick check in the parking lot:

R&R fuses, all OK.

R&R lean angle sensor. Tried starting bike with sensor in different positions.

R&R battery leads to reset computer.

Removed PCIII battery lead.

Removed run/stop switch housing, looks OK.

Do you get a flashing check engine light when you push the start button? If not, then it's not the lean angle sensor. If the lean sensor is open or shorted it will trip the check engine light and make it flash when you push the start button.

The sensor is easy enough to take apart and check. The little spindle inside may have got stuck.

Look at this thread. It shows the guts of the sensor and how it works.

Other things to check are all the safety switches, like the clutch switch and kickstand switch, also the neutral switch. And the obvious stuff like the kill switch too.

If none of that works, check the fuel pump relay and the start button circuit for proper function.

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Been playing with the lean angle sensor; it will throw an amber engine light and error code 30 when the ignition is turned on with the sensor in an upset state. (But not otherwise.) So that, and mwakey's reply, put it low on the list.

Clutch and sidestand switches let the engine run, just not in gear, so they are lower on the list of things to check.

High priority is the kill switch. When off, it causes the exact behavior I'm having. And I did crash hard on the right handlebar. Problem is I don't know how to troubleshoot it.

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Hope you are OK...

Take out the kill switch and check for loose/broken connection

Another thing to watch out is the PCIII wires.... try to disconnect the PCIII and get all the connections back to stock and see if it can start

good luck

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Just checked about the pc3, when you turn the ignition on, the lights on the pc3 will go up and down, but then out, nothing else will light till you start the bike. So, if your lights on the PC3 don't light up when you first turn it on, do like mtb2014 said, take the pc3 out completely. That is the second time I have heard someone say the wires on the PC3 suck, maybe check each wire if the pc3 is the problem. Good luck, if nothing else, gave you a bump, maybe someone else has an idea of whats wrong.

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Just checked about the pc3, when you turn the ignition on, the lights on the pc3 will go up and down, but then out, nothing else will light till you start the bike. So, if your lights on the PC3 don't light up when you first turn it on, do like mtb2014 said, take the pc3 out completely. That is the second time I have heard someone say the wires on the PC3 suck, maybe check each wire if the pc3 is the problem. Good luck, if nothing else, gave you a bump, maybe someone else has an idea of whats wrong.

Almost certainly the first thing a dealer tech would do is remove the pc3 to begin trouble shooting.

I have a pc3 on my streetbike and have had good luck but I am thinking fmf for the yami. Seems like they would be more experienced in dirty bike conditions.

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I gave up and gave it to a mechanic. He fixed it after a couple hours of frustration. It was the kill switch wire connector in the frame at the steering head.

Apparently it was pulled loose in the crash when the bars were turned full right. (Note that I put on fat bars; perhaps the bars are wider and the switch housing is farther out.)

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I gave up and gave it to a mechanic. He fixed it after a couple hours of frustration. It was the kill switch wire connector in the frame at the steering head.

Apparently it was pulled loose in the crash when the bars were turned full right. (Note that I put on fat bars; perhaps the bars are wider and the switch housing is farther out.)

Glad you got it fixed :)

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My wife dropped our WRX yesterday and the high beam is out. I only noticed it today so haven't had a chance to look at it. Weird thing is the low beam works just fine. First thing I'll look at is the bulb itself.

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My wife dropped our WRX yesterday and the high beam is out. I only noticed it today so haven't had a chance to look at it. Weird thing is the low beam works just fine. First thing I'll look at is the bulb itself.

I have broken the filament on another bike, just from dropping it, thats probably it, hopefully!

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