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Idle/starting Help Please

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if this is stupid i am sorry, i am new to this.

my idle needs to be adjusted down. i i adjust it and it makes no difference. until i rev the hand throttle. then the adj sets in. problem is, it never stays not even for one ride. as soon as i set it where i need it, then rev the bike. the new setting is gone. can someone help me. i think there is a problem between the the "wrap around-flex adjuster" to the carb.

also, my bike is hard to start. i know that its probably valves. its an 04. i usually catch it in gear to start it the first time. then if i shut it off and wait like 7 minutes. use the hot start, and the smallest throttle possible, on the compression stroke, and jump on it with all i got, most the time it will go if i get it right. if i dont get it first try forget it.

i know most people here will say kibble whites and new seats. thats fine, i call my local shop and tell them i want new seats cut and they are like why? and totally contradict what i read on here. what you guys think?

sorry for the repeat of a popular topic.

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There could be several reasons why your throttle doesn't return properly. Dirty slide, worn / dry cables, worn / dirty throttle tube, even the grip on too far. As far as the valves go there are thousands of post on TT about that. The quick answer is do the job correctly the first time. New valves, new springs, and cut the seats. Personal preference, I had my head done by Dave at MXTime.

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thanks, i know that there is alot out there onthe valves. you think i should just go right to new vavles springs and seats? just the intake side?

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The big knurled knob with a screwdriver flat slit on the left side is the idle. It will be attached to a bracket and lead to the carb. The mixture screw is located on the bottom of the carb and is next to impossible to reach unless you have changed it to a longer type.

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The big knurled knob with a screwdriver flat slit on the left side is the idle. It will be attached to a bracket and lead to the carb. The mixture screw is located on the bottom of the carb and is next to impossible to reach unless you have changed it to a longer type.

yaeh thanks, i know which is the idle. i was just making sure. i turn and adj that one but it has no real effect on the motors idle. and where ever i set it it doesnt stay. any thoughts?

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where do you guys recommend i send my head for new valves and seats? my local shop says they can cut new seats should i just do that?

i dont need anything crazy. just something reliable, as reliable as a high strung race bike can be you know

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where do you guys recommend i send my head for new valves and seats? my local shop says they can cut new seats should i just do that?

i dont need anything crazy. just something reliable, as reliable as a high strung race bike can be you know

In my experience, the Ron Hamp inspired valves and springs will last the longest, but if cost is an issue, I would go Faction MX valves and have your local shop cut the seats or ASRacing.

I actually have Ron's head/valves/springs on my 2005X and it is still holding strong with only one slight adjustment. I went factory TI on my wifes 2006X since her valves lasted a long time and had ASRacing cut the seats. I would also look at a throttle cable too tight or an intake leak to cause your idle problems.

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so you think i should go with the faction ss valves vs TI. kibble whites?
I have no experience with the Kibble whites, just stock and RH valves, but have read that the faction and Kibble whites don't last much longer than stock, but don't change as sudden. I would go stock intake valves with new springs (leave exhaust alone unless they have gone bad), have the seats machined, and replace the piston and rings while you are in there. All this for under $300. This is how I did my wifes 250X and actually did a write up on it which is in the sticky on the lead page.

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thanks, i was thinking about replacing the rings while i was in there. i guess the piston too huh.
Some do, some don't. Mine had score marks on the side, so I just replaced it. Cheap insurance.

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yaeh your right. def going to check it out while i am in there. do you loose some power going from ti valves to stainless?

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yaeh your right. def going to check it out while i am in there. do you loose some power going from ti valves to stainless?
Probably a smidge, but you won't notice it unless you race.

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no i dont race, and i dont usually rev it out either.

i rode the bike alot today. tel me what you think of these symptons

trialered where i was going, and tried to catch it in gear. nothing over and over again. (i was playing with idle and i think i had it it too low, more on this in a minute)

so i finally got it going. idle was pretty much off. i adj it to where the bike was idling nice. rode it for a while. when the bike became "warmed up" it seemed to idle to the moon. so i knocked it back down. i found that the cold idle and the warm idle are two different settings. when it was warm, and the idle was adj for a warm bike it would start right up first kick on the compression stroke, using hot start, with a kick from hell. it started up for me warm everytime.

as soon as its cold tho, it needs to be bump started. could this be the valves? or something with the idle being too low not since the bike is cold again. or do i just make no sense at all? thanks for all the help everyone

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no i dont race, and i dont usually rev it out either.

i rode the bike alot today. tel me what you think of these symptons

trialered where i was going, and tried to catch it in gear. nothing over and over again. (i was playing with idle and i think i had it it too low, more on this in a minute)

so i finally got it going. idle was pretty much off. i adj it to where the bike was idling nice. rode it for a while. when the bike became "warmed up" it seemed to idle to the moon. so i knocked it back down. i found that the cold idle and the warm idle are two different settings. when it was warm, and the idle was adj for a warm bike it would start right up first kick on the compression stroke, using hot start, with a kick from hell. it started up for me warm everytime.

as soon as its cold tho, it needs to be bump started. could this be the valves? or something with the idle being too low not since the bike is cold again. or do i just make no sense at all? thanks for all the help everyone

My normal reply is valves, but in this case I will say valves, but then again, it could be your valves. Get the picture? Check the adjustment to be sure, otherwise clean out the pilot jet accessed from the bottom of the carb by removing the big nut and turning the carb to the side.

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no i am sure i am due for valves. i am going to pull it apart now and check the clearances. i just wanted to make sure, you know. thanks again

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I checked my clearances, the exhuast took the .011. it was a pretty snug, but it took it. the intake would not take .005 nor .004 or .003 . so whats it mean that the intakes are so tight? thanks

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