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so this dude i know brings me a 85 F250 4x4 460 for a rear main seal and a look at the brakes, i told him i didnt want to do the rear main if i had to pull the engine. knowing it was a 4x4, i was thinking it was a strait axle, but no its a stupid TTB, i dont know if it makes a differance on this year but i did a bearing job on a highboy (76), it was cake, but this TTB may as well be a 2wd, it sucked. had to jack the motor up to the moon and still had to fight like heck to get the pan off, but not before removing the oil pump and pickup. i did manage to get the job done in around 7 hours. this was on the ground by the way.

so i fix the rear main, the brakes, and tighten a few belts, the motor sounds ok, truck is in decent shape for its age, but the trans (t19) sounds like crap, needs a bearing somewhere,the motor misses bad on the low end,has a fresh (fits all holley carb, 4160?), so the guy wont fix the trans (wants a 5 spd),thinks he is going to tune the carb to get rid of the miss,he is going to put a carb spacer on it and maybe a intake manifold, and then the kicker,, frigin headers,,

1 this is a rant

2 a five speed, i ask why, dudes to tight to freshen up the t19, so he wants to go through the trouble of swaping a 5spd in, i'm guessing a zf, he would be lucky if it bolts up, but then what about the clutch and the driveshafts, this will be alot more work and expense than just fixing the 4 spd.the gain will be minimal. he would be using a junkyard trans,,

3 since when does a carb cause a miss (bad) on the low end.

4 why in the heck would anyone go thru the severe agervation of putting cheap headers and dealing with the leaky basterds on a WORK TRUCK

5 any aftermarket intake benifits would be nill to barly nmoticible.

this is just a around town work truck,(dudes a remodeler) yes its got 4.10 gears and wont go 100 miles a hour but it runs fine down the highway at 75 maybe more(speed limit here is 65),i cannot fathom headers being of any help on a stock 85 460, the miss is probably a bad valve.

i could easily make this truck run and drive as it should, but dude just wants to hack it for no good reason. :):banghead:

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GEEEEEZ! :banghead: To start with, those big blocks don't take too kindly to headers. Seems like the ones I have been around started sucking oil through the valve guides when you put headers on them. I pulled the headers off the one on my MH for that reason whne I got it. The prev owner said it was using a little oil. Nope doesn't. The 5 spd is a weak tranny, also you will need all the bushings for the flywheel etc to make it fit. PIA! for sure. Makes a much better swap to find a doner later model truck, get all you need for a much more efficient EFI overdrive drive train.:)

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5 spd... I hate automatics with a passion. I don't like having something else thinking for me and I've had too many problems with autos, where as every standard I've ever owned has never had a transmission problem besides clutch replacements. That's why I don't even consider buying autos. But the one auto I still have, someday will get a decent transmission. My daily driver is a 5 spd, I thought about dropping a six in because it's a direct bolt in as long as you get a drive shaft too, but the only thing that's been done to it in 290k is changing the tranny fluid once and it was only to check that everything was ok when I bought it.

Everything else, I agree with. But I might try headers just because, but only if I had cash to burn which I don't.

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7 hours isn't bad time, even with a hoist....8 hours is about what we used to charge for that job.

How rusty was the pan? Our firm policy was, that if the pan came off, it went in the trash. Ford pan's were TERRIBLE for rotting out...a new pan was cheap insurance.

The ZF's were put behind the 460's, so it wouldn't be that bad of a swap if you're able to cannibalize a donor truck....only parts that would be somewhat tricky would be cross member mounting and relocation, and the fact that the ZF trans used a hydraulic master-slave instead of linkage. Then there is speed sensor to think about, and T-case compatability.

Headers on a 460? The stock manifolds liked to crack from heat, I'd hate to see the warpage from headers.

As for it's running poorly, probably needs a good tune up.....460's like their plugs like a fat kid likes cake. I'd be looking at vacuum lines, too.

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7 hours isn't bad time, even with a hoist....8 hours is about what we used to charge for that job.

How rusty was the pan? Our firm policy was, that if the pan came off, it went in the trash. Ford pan's were TERRIBLE for rotting out...a new pan was cheap insurance.

The ZF's were put behind the 460's, so it wouldn't be that bad of a swap if you're able to cannibalize a donor truck....only parts that would be somewhat tricky would be cross member mounting and relocation, and the fact that the ZF trans used a hydraulic master-slave instead of linkage. Then there is speed sensor to think about, and T-case compatability.

Headers on a 460? The stock manifolds liked to crack from heat, I'd hate to see the warpage from headers.

As for it's running poorly, probably needs a good tune up.....460's like their plugs like a fat kid likes cake. I'd be looking at vacuum lines, too.

yeah i think i did good at 7 hrs,the pan was in surpriseingly good shape

460's also have dinky/problematic exhaust bolts, 5/16 ?

whats your opinion on the ZF 5spd, i hear they can be problematic, i'm shure the T19 is the more reliable trans.BTW it does have a hydro clutch.

if i were to get after the miss,i'd start with the tune up including checking the base timing,then check for vacumn leaks, then on to a compression test, i seriously suspect a bad valve, then go after that holley.

i have a very strong 460 myself, won 1st place in 2wd pulls,(beat a cummins in the final round!!) thru the stock manifolds. i dont think the headers would be of much/if any help on a torque motor,(my motor stock rebuild,cast pistons, 8-1 comp,performer intake,750 AFB) i am inclined to think it puts out close to 600 ft pds, and exceeds 350 horse, prob closer 400, oh yeah and 11mpg to boot while towing 5k,,

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yeah i think i did good at 7 hrs,the pan was in surpriseingly good shape

460's also have dinky/problematic exhaust bolts, 5/16 ?

whats your opinion on the ZF 5spd, i hear they can be problematic, i'm shure the T19 is the more reliable trans.BTW it does have a hydro clutch.

if i were to get after the miss,i'd start with the tune up including checking the base timing,then check for vacumn leaks, then on to a compression test, i seriously suspect a bad valve, then go after that holley.

i have a very strong 460 myself, won 1st place in 2wd pulls,(beat a cummins in the final round!!) thru the stock manifolds. i dont think the headers would be of much/if any help on a torque motor,(my motor stock rebuild,cast pistons, 8-1 comp,performer intake,750 AFB) i am inclined to think it puts out close to 600 ft pds, and exceeds 350 horse, prob closer 400, oh yeah and 11mpg to boot while towing 5k,,

The ZF HD 5 spd did have a tendency for the synchro's to go out at higher mileage in trucks that had been worked hard. I'm not talking the guy who uses it on the weekend to pull his toyhauler, but the guy who pulled a Bobcat and cement mixer behind a truck equipped with a dump box containing a yard of sand.

For reasonable use, they're a decent trans as long as the oil gets changed (major thing that many neglect to do on MT's). The bad part is parts are not cheap for a ZF like they are for other MT's.

Since it's already got a hydro clutch, it would be a fairly straight forward swap, I think.

The big advantage of the ZF over the T19 is the overdrive 5th compared to the direct drive of the T19. If he is adamant about putting the ZF in there, get a 96+ one, they had redesigned synchro's (the syncro problems were much les) and bearing supports (so they can be changed without complete teardown)

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so this dude i know brings me a 85 F250 4x4 460 for a rear main seal and a look at the brakes, i told him i didnt want to do the rear main if i had to pull the engine. knowing it was a 4x4, i was thinking it was a strait axle, but no its a stupid TTB, i dont know if it makes a differance on this year but i did a bearing job on a highboy (76), it was cake, but this TTB may as well be a 2wd, it sucked. had to jack the motor up to the moon and still had to fight like heck to get the pan off, but not before removing the oil pump and pickup. i did manage to get the job done in around 7 hours. this was on the ground by the way.

so i fix the rear main, the brakes, and tighten a few belts, the motor sounds ok, truck is in decent shape for its age, but the trans (t19) sounds like crap, needs a bearing somewhere,the motor misses bad on the low end,has a fresh (fits all holley carb, 4160?), so the guy wont fix the trans (wants a 5 spd),thinks he is going to tune the carb to get rid of the miss,he is going to put a carb spacer on it and maybe a intake manifold, and then the kicker,, frigin headers,,

1 this is a rant

2 a five speed, i ask why, dudes to tight to freshen up the t19, so he wants to go through the trouble of swaping a 5spd in, i'm guessing a zf, he would be lucky if it bolts up, but then what about the clutch and the driveshafts, this will be alot more work and expense than just fixing the 4 spd.the gain will be minimal. he would be using a junkyard trans,,

3 since when does a carb cause a miss (bad) on the low end.

4 why in the heck would anyone go thru the severe agervation of putting cheap headers and dealing with the leaky basterds on a WORK TRUCK

5 any aftermarket intake benifits would be nill to barly nmoticible.

this is just a around town work truck,(dudes a remodeler) yes its got 4.10 gears and wont go 100 miles a hour but it runs fine down the highway at 75 maybe more(speed limit here is 65),i cannot fathom headers being of any help on a stock 85 460, the miss is probably a bad valve.

i could easily make this truck run and drive as it should, but dude just wants to hack it for no good reason. :):banghead:

lol im in the auto repair indusrty (well kinda , dad owns his own shop and i stay as far away as possible) and i feel your pain

a carb can cause a miss, by being WWWWaayyyy to lean (lean misfire) but he would have many other issues, more than likely a plug wire

i agree with the guy who hates autos, i would want all my vehicles to be std, except maybe a rock crawler

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Do what I do! If you dont want to do it, charge an exhorbant amount for it. If they approve, then money wise, it will be worth it.

and i did it all for free,, sorta,, i mentioned he was a remodeler, and i just so happen to need some drywall finished :banghead: we'll see how i did ,,

i normally dont do any sidework,, but i'd rather wrench than finish drywall..:)

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and i did it all for free,, sorta,, i mentioned he was a remodeler, and i just so happen to need some drywall finished :banghead: we'll see how i did ,,

i normally dont do any sidework,, but i'd rather wrench than finish drywall..:)

I used to do more "side" work than "work" work some weeks....it just paid too well to turn it down, and was usually gravy, easy stuff-front end rebuilds, brakes, tune ups, minor oil leaks, etc.

When you're getting $35/hr cash under the table compared to $23 minus taxes, it don't take long to double your income, especially when you charge by book rate on "gravy" work.

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I used to do more "side" work than "work" work some weeks....it just paid too well to turn it down, and was usually gravy, easy stuff-front end rebuilds, brakes, tune ups, minor oil leaks, etc.

When you're getting $35/hr cash under the table compared to $23 minus taxes, it don't take long to double your income, especially when you charge by book rate on "gravy" work.

dam chicken you work cheap,, if i were to do more sidework, my fee would be at least $50 an hour but i would bill actual time,,i'd half to get the parts/or they'd have to get what i want to use (i'm super picky on parts) guess i've been working on a fleet too long,,,

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dam chicken you work cheap,, if i were to do more sidework, my fee would be at least $50 an hour but i would bill actual time,,i'd half to get the parts/or they'd have to get what i want to use (i'm super picky on parts) guess i've been working on a fleet too long,,,

This was 10 years ago rates, when independant shops were getting $50-65 per hour and dealers were $75.

I would procure the parts, and they would pay exactly what I paid (gave them a copy of the receipt). I only did side work for friends, family and neighbors though....and it had to be on "I'll get to it when I get to it" terms, not "I'll work on it at 2pm Tuesday".

But, I only took "gravy" stuff-wasn't interested in doing oil pans on the floor.:thumbsup:

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