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Installing a Brake light

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I plan on installing a brake light on both mine and my dad's bike. We think it would make our trail rides safer. I want to do it as cheap as possible though. There are kits, but I think I could rig it up for cheaper. I was thinking a 2-3 LED brake light wired to one or two 9-volt batteries. The only thing I'm not sure about is how to make it come on when the (most likely rear) brake is depressed. How does it work on a dual sport, cruiser, Harley, etc? Thanks and any help is appreciated.

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I used a small weather proof micro switch that I bought from Radio Shack. It was the kind of switch that had about a 15mm long lever with a roller on the end. It already had two very small mounting holes that went through the switch. Just get on Radio Shacks website and search micro switch. I then mounted the switch onto the base end of the brake lever by drilling two very small holes into the lever and bolting the micro switch onto the lever. Keep in mind that the small drill bits will break very easily when going into soft aluminum. I think the drill bit bites too much of the soft metal then snaps. If I had to do it all over again, I would of just bought a used brake lever from ebay with the switch already built in it then wired it up. If you go my route, I suggest taking the lever to a machine shop and let them drill the brake lever. I doubt it would cost much. Good luck.

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You can buy a pressure switch to replace the banjo bolt on either your front or rear brake master cylinder. They are about $20. When you activate the brake, it completes the circuit. See THIS PAGE. The problem with mechanical switches, like the above posts suggests, is that they are more easily damaged and/or get out of adjustment, where the pressure switches don't have that problem. You don't say what bike you have, but if your bike has electrical power, you can skip the battery and run the brake light off of A/C with a 12v bulb (Lights don't care if it is A/C or D/C), . . . or you could use a battery with compatible voltage LED's like you described. GL

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That pressure switch looks like a much more robust design then I had rigged up. Mine never gave me any problems, passed inspection, and worked fine for the year that I had it set up like that, however my set up wouldn't of been able to handle a spill very good. Thumbs up for that pressure switch.

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You can buy a pressure switch to replace the banjo bolt on either your front or rear brake master cylinder. They are about $20. When you activate the brake, it completes the circuit. See THIS PAGE. The problem with mechanical switches, like the above posts suggests, is that they are more easily damaged and/or get out of adjustment, where the pressure switches don't have that problem. You don't say what bike you have, but if your bike has electrical power, you can skip the battery and run the brake light off of A/C with a 12v bulb (Lights don't care if it is A/C or D/C), . . . or you could use a battery with compatible voltage LED's like you described. GL

Just did my xr650r and My Ktm mxc with this type of switch. Very clean way to do it!!!!

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I used K & S pressure switches on my Dual Sported DRZ250 and they work well and are easy to install. They come in 2 sizes: 1.00 threads per mm or 1.25. The 1.00 is the right size for most Japanese bikes.

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You can buy a pressure switch to replace the banjo bolt on either your front or rear brake master cylinder. They are about $20. When you activate the brake, it completes the circuit. See THIS PAGE. The problem with mechanical switches, like the above posts suggests, is that they are more easily damaged and/or get out of adjustment, where the pressure switches don't have that problem. You don't say what bike you have, but if your bike has electrical power, you can skip the battery and run the brake light off of A/C with a 12v bulb (Lights don't care if it is A/C or D/C), . . . or you could use a battery with compatible voltage LED's like you described. GL

Sorry I probably should have mentioned what bike I have. It's a CRF 230, so no hydraulic brakes in the rear, just drum. It has e-start, so here is a battery, which my headlight is wired to. I haven't quite decided yet if I should go for the 9-volt battery idea (my dad's suggestion) or if I should wire it to the battery. I figure either setup could work because LEDs don't require muCh power.

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You can put the hydraulic switch in the front rather than rear. A single filiment bulb can be used if you use a resistor for the running light and give full voltage off of the switch. Small running lights off of trailers work good for this.The leds use almost no juice and are bright. Use the battery and stator you already have not a 9v.

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You can buy a pressure switch to replace the banjo bolt on either your front or rear brake master cylinder. They are about $20. When you activate the brake, it completes the circuit. See THIS PAGE.

^^^ What he said.

Like this, its under the shield --has a little red on it and a couple wires...

280433613_sGj2h-M.jpg

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^^^ What he said.

Like this, its under the shield --has a little red on it and a couple wires...

280433613_sGj2h-M.jpg

That looks great, but I don't have hydraulic disc brakes in the back. I have it up front, but the rear is a drum. How did it work on the older road bikes before disc brakes were common? I'd like to wire the light to the rear, because my dad doesn't normally use his front brake.

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Does the CRF230L have drum rear brakes? If so, you could use those parts. If not, there are spring activated switches for older DS bikes with drum brakes. I put the switch from an XT350 on a TT350 to activate the brake light. Also, many off road tailights have dual filament bulbs. My DRZ250 does, and even has an un-attached wire running from it under the seat.

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That looks great, but I don't have hydraulic disc brakes in the back. I have it up front, but the rear is a drum. How did it work on the older road bikes before disc brakes were common? I'd like to wire the light to the rear, because my dad doesn't normally use his front brake.

Here is a link to a mechanical brake switch from baja designs, this may work for you or not, it's worth looking at though..

https://www.bajadesigns.com/NET/P-120106/Switch%2c+Brake+Mechanical

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That looks great, but I don't have hydraulic disc brakes in the back. I have it up front, but the rear is a drum. How did it work on the older road bikes before disc brakes were common? I'd like to wire the light to the rear, because my dad doesn't normally use his front brake.

then you can use the older type switches that hook a wire, spring, and pull sensor/switch to the brake pedal....it is activated by pulling on the switch as you use the brake pedal, so some adjustment will be needed but it's easy to do....and yes, you can still find these most anywhere or they can order it for you

here's a nice one:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/British-type-REAR-BRAKE-LIGHT-SWITCH--BSA-Trike-Project_W0QQitemZ370171492501QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090312?IMSfp=TL090312121003r167

this is one 12-0106:

https://www.bajadesigns.com/NET/C-129/ENDURO+LIGHTING+KIT+REPLACEMENT+PARTS

yes definitely....wire it to yr bikes battery or headlight power wire

hope this helps:thumbsup:

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Does the CRF230L have drum rear brakes? If so, you could use those parts. If not, there are spring activated switches for older DS bikes with drum brakes. I put the switch from an XT350 on a TT350 to activate the brake light. Also, many off road tailights have dual filament bulbs. My DRZ250 does, and even has an un-attached wire running from it under the seat.

The 230L has rear disc brakes. At least the '09 does.

MotoPhreke and beemerwolf, thank you very much. That mechanical switch is exactly what I was hoping for.

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