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Brake Pedal hidden - can I strecth it?

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Hi All - I have a hard time 'finding' my brake pedal - Really bad now that I put a case protector on. There is just a tiny bit of the point of the pedal sticking out past the cover. I have to slam my foot inward till it hits the case - then push down. Its a REAL PITA having to 'hunt' for it - especially when I need it NOW!

I try to ride on my arches rather than on the balls of my feet and the size 14's just aren't helping either!

is there a way to lengthen the tip or bend the arm 1/2" out? I fear breaking it if I try to force it too far?

I thought about getting an old pedal, cutting it up and welding the tip onto the OEM tip but thought I'd ask here 1st - why re-invent the wheel??

I have a hammerhead shifter & love it but don't want to spend $160 on another pedal though

Thanks

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Hammerhead makes a badass one.

You could go to a Fab Shop and have them add some metal to your tip.

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Thanx for the reply motoman

That's what I was saying... cut a tip off another pedal and add it to MY tip. I can weld it - seems like the quick & Dirty way and should work. I just hate to spend the $$ for the H-Head - even though they ARE super nice!!

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ChainSaw - did you heat the arm 1st or just use leverage? - I'm just a big chicken about bending it - story of my life... it'll snap 4 sure - maybe not in the garage but 35Mi out in the middle of 'What the FireTruck'. Been there?

Thanx for the reply

M

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Dont heat it, heat brittles aluminum when it comes to bending, try to spread the bend over a large area if you get my drift.

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Got it! Heading for the garage - will let ya know.

Found a hammerhead tip for only $60 after posting all this. Prolly do the job - they make nice stuff but... I'll try bending it 1st

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Dont heat it, heat brittles aluminum when it comes to bending, try to spread the bend over a large area if you get my drift.

nope...

1. heating aluminum (generally) does not cause embrittlement (unless you get into the really high psi ally's), it makes aluminum softer, easier to work and machine...but it does take the heat treating out of it.. T-6 aluminum heated will have the same properties as T-0 or normalized aluminum.. and to get back the strength it need to be re-solution heat-treated..

after my accident, i had some proprioception issues and some lack of flexibility in my lower leg, that caused me to have some issues finding the brake pedal..

i just grabbed the brake and pulled it out about 1/2" to 3/4" ..problem solved.. i didn't even take it off the bike...

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heating aluminum (generally) does not cause embrittlement (unless you get into the really high psi ally's), it makes aluminum softer, easier to work and machine...but it does take the heat treating out of it.. T-6 aluminum heated will have the same properties as T-0 or normalized aluminum.. and to get back the strength it need to be re-solution heat-treated..

So your saying dont heat it? I appreciate the input but that just complicated this to a point it didnt need to be.

What is the arm made of?

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I appreciate the input but that just complicated this to a point it didnt need to be.

What is the arm made of?

complicated... i wrote...

i just grabbed the brake and pulled it out about 1/2" to 3/4" ..problem solved.. i didn't even take it off the bike...

the actual brake arm is aluminum, looks to be a low grade casting probably T-3, still pretty ductile

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Now Im very confuzed...mine, and all Ive seen are aluminum brake levers, Would honda put steel brake levers on in africa for some reason?

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charlie i offer my sincerest apology to you and the forum...

one of the things that drives me crazy, is the amount of miss-information spread on internet forums, and now i'm guilty of this same act. :usa:

the last time i really remember examining the brake pedal, was quite awhile ago when i ground off the inner teeth on the pedal, and i remembered that was steel.. the actual pedal is carbon steel, but the brake arm itself is aluminum....

i just got back from looking at my bike(s), i went armed with a camera and a magnet, but i didn't even need the magnet.. one look told me the brake arm was aluminum..

so... good gas for you and sorry.. i'll correct my earlier posts..:thumbsup:

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HAHA! No need for apologies! You just had me wondering, but I obviously had you chasing your tail too. A little confusion does us all a little good now and then eh?:thumbsup:

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I had a similar problem with my brake lever that kept hitting the edge of my skid plate. I shimmed the whole lever out with a 3/16' or 1/4' aluminum washer. Actually, I tapped the washer so it would tighten up and the lever would still rotate. Lever has pleanty of threads remaining. Works well. Don't try to bend the lever. You could also drill out the rivit that connects the steel toe piece with the alum arm and put in a nut bolt arrangement. It was far easier for me to shim the entire lever out.

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